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Re: need to know average amperes need to run at moderetly...
Go by the fuse rating on the amplifier as a default. i.e. - If on amp has a 40 amp fuse on the outside and another has a 30 amp fuse on the outside, then you need to supply at least 70 amps of current. the formula works like this: amps X volts = watts. Doing the math here, for an amp to produce 1000w of power @ your vehicle's 12v power, you need 83 amps of current. Most cars produce 14v from the alternator when running, so this is really only needing 71 amps. Make sure your car's alternator can supply the excess current when running. Most modern amplifiers are efficient enough to produce their wattage with even less current than that.
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the bas control nob is just a grimack end a waste of money,You don,t need it because all the decks in the last 8 years have,Sub level control on them, Where you can adjust the level of bas from the (Deck) All your asking for to happen, Buy all so useing the bas control for the amp, Is to (Blow) Your (Subs) End fry your amp, When you use both of them for controling the bass, You are causeing the sub end the amp to over heat, I installed car audio for over 40 years , before i retired this summer, End seen lots of amps end subs that were damage, Buy guys haveing them hookup all so,End anouther thing that damage subs end amps, When they have the grain control on the amp crank right up.
I have Ref-1000s with two Pioneer TS-W1200C 4-ohm subs bridged in series. So it is 8-ohm mono load, easy for an amplifier, long durability, less heating, low current consumption. I have heard that this amp might break if used with low impedance loads.
I agree with the last answer- your amp has built in fuses that should be rated at 30 amperes each which should be sufficient as the amp only pulls 60 amperes at full power-however you may want to upgrade your power /ground wires to a good 4 gauge set if you dont already have it set up like that-throw an 80-100 amp fuse up front by the battery in case your running another amp for mids and highs just to cover the current draw of the amps combined. If the amp is still blowing fuses after that check to make sure that your subs are wired to no lower than a 2 ohm load as the amp is only stable to 2 ohms.
Wiring 4 speakers to each of 2 channels, you will need to wire them series-parallel and run them at 4 ohms. If you wire all 4 parallel, the load will be 1 ohm and the amp is only stable down to 2 ohms.
According to your manual, the 201s will deliver 50 watts into each channel at 4 ohms . So it will be supplying about 12.5 watts per speaker which is about what you get with the average factory radio. They will work OK, but they're not going to be very loud.
it is really hard on an amp to run it below recommendation or specs and most audio companies won't warranty if they catch wind. but i have not seen an amp last long or operate without cutting out when you do this.
The amount of power that youre going to run on those 5.25s might indicate that you need to turn the crossover to a higher cutoff frequency because they gonna want to kick pretty hard if your set too low - Sounds like you got it under control though flip it to high-pass(HP) and see how it does at around 100 HZ cutoff- be sure to turn off any bass boost on the amp though too- Let me know how them soundstream mids do- I have a set of subs that kick *** but i never have heard anything about their mids-good luck
That depends on which wires you are referring to. High level inputs or low level (RCA) outputs? If you are thinking about trying to wire the amp up to your Pioneer direct, ie; running the power and ground off of the factory harness, think again, you'll fry your electrical system. You need to run a seperate power kit (8 gauge minimum; 4 gauge pref), then run RCA's from the line level outputs on the Pioneer. If you are planning to run a sub with the Soundstream then run your RCA's from the Pioneer's sub output. Let me know if I can help you any further.
If the other speakers play after the door speaker wires are disconnected, the problem is likely a speaker wire shorted to the door. If the vehicle had OEM amps and you didn't bypass them, that could also be a problem.
Disconnect the door speaker wires from the amp and check for continuity from the speaker wires to ground. There should be none. Also check the resistance across the speaker wires. They should read approximately the same as the rated impedance of the speakers.