My GE profile kitchen range keeps beeping and flashing an F1 code and I dont know what it is or how to get it to clear and stop beeping

Oven keeps beeping:
As there is no reprogramming of most control boards try this, disconnect the power and wait 30 seconds and then reconnecting the power.

If it's an "F1" fault code this generally implies an electronic oven control (EOC) failure. Disconnect the power, wait 30 seconds or longer and then reapply power. If "F1" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control.
The oven control can be accessed and replaced from the rear of the control panel.

NOTE:Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the panel from behind the console.
If its an F2 ERROR CODE, The F2 error indicates an open circuit in the oven temperature probe.

Your range has a resettable thermostat in series with the oven temperature probe. If this thermostat opens the clock will display F2 and the oven won't heat.
You can reset the thermostat by pushing in the reset button on top of the thermostat.
Some ovens have an alarm that will beep continuously every six seconds to alert you that the oven is still on. Usually, a kitchen timer that you have set will cause the beeping, but occasionally it can be an error with the oven's settings. If it is the kitchen timer, you can simply push the "Kitchen Timer On/Off" button to end the continuous beeping. If that does not stop the beeping, it is probably beeping due to an error. You can turn the continuous beeping off but you may still need to troubleshoot the issue that is causing the beeping noise.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/how_12086370_ge-oven-stop-beeping.html


How to Get GE Oven to Stop Beeping eHow

Oven keeps beeping:
As there is no reprogramming of most control boards try this, disconnect the power and wait 30 seconds and then reconnecting the power.

If it's an "F1" fault code this generally implies an electronic oven control (EOC) failure. Disconnect the power, wait 30 seconds or longer and then reapply power. If "F1" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control.
The oven control can be accessed and replaced from the rear of the control panel.

NOTE:Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the panel from behind the console.
If its an F2 ERROR CODE, The F2 error indicates an open circuit in the oven temperature probe.

Your range has a resettable thermostat in series with the oven temperature probe. If this thermostat opens the clock will display F2 and the oven won't heat.
You can reset the thermostat by pushing in the reset button on top of the thermostat.
Some ovens have an alarm that will beep continuously every six seconds to alert you that the oven is still on. Usually, a kitchen timer that you have set will cause the beeping, but occasionally it can be an error with the oven's settings. If it is the kitchen timer, you can simply push the "Kitchen Timer On/Off" button to end the continuous beeping. If that does not stop the beeping, it is probably beeping due to an error. You can turn the continuous beeping off but you may still need to troubleshoot the issue that is causing the beeping noise.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/how_12086370_ge-oven-stop-beeping.html How to Get GE Oven to Stop Beeping eHow

F1=Touch control pad and or Clock defective.
How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
   NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.

you can google your oven model for its codes. on our maytag oven the F1 code means defective touch pad or control board.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
   NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%#$TEF

hello there:
Please read this carefully and follow the tips and this will help you find out what is exactly the problem ok
How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
   NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

Built In Oven Fault Codes
F0 or F1 - Failed transistor in control - If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&*&^%rt