My 200 GTL is only putting 1 watt now . It was working fine . I believe it is the finales . But can not find any now one any where. I only had for 20 days when it lost wattage . I would send it to a shop but no one wonts to work on them . One shop sad this is common to this radio and the cost for the parts is moor then the radio . Is this true ! and where can I send it .
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Re: Low watts out putt
I do not know if that is the case. If it is just the finals, I don't belive they would not be that expensive. I can do some research and see. Off the top of my head, I am unsure of which final they have. You can send me a reply at firstname.lastname@example.org. I drive truck full time and run my cb shop part time. If you are along one of my loads, I can stop off and take a look at the radio.
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you do not do it by resistance. To turn up the radio it is a variable resistor. What you do is connect a watt meter that can read PEAK or PEP watts AND AVERAGE or dead key watts.
First you check it on avg watts. Hook the radio up in line with the watt meter and set it on avg watts. key the radio. Stock is 4 watts. A lot of times when you peak a radio, you lower the dead key.(thats keying with no audio.) This allows you to get more modulation wattage, or swing wattage. If that has been done it will probably do 2 or 3 watts. If it has had the AM power raised in it, it could be more, this is no good. You want your dead key a bit lower.
Now check it on peak. Flip the meter to peak and make an AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH noise into the radio. It should swing to anywhere between 15 and 20 watts.
You adjust the AMC while giving it audio and watching the meter on peak to adjust the modulation. 4 watts is legal modulation.
Um... What?? This is hooked to a switch? CB radio by FCC regulations is only supposed to have a max of 4 watts total output. If you can flip it to 7 watts dead key, you are doing really good. It won't do much more then that. It sounds like its set up to run on a linear amplifier, which cannot have more then 3 watts dead key transmitting into it.
Dead key, and modulation are different. You may have a meter that only reads dead key, and won't see the modulation. This radio is probably swinging close to 15-20 watts. you need a meter that can read PEP, Peak envelope power. Cheap meters only read AVG, or average power, witch will only show your dead key.
7 watts dead key is really good for that radio.especially since stock only has 4 watts. you cannot get any higher then that without changing finals.
at 3 watt dead key, or 7 watt dead key, your modulation wattage is still swinging much higher.
Also, you will get more swing with a lower dead key any way, which is better if you want it to be loud.
In the back is where power mods have been added...It sounds like a swing kit 1/2 watt deadkey to 25 watts which is a powerful modulation exceeding 100%. Its a 220uf capacitor in place of a jumper J1 or J(x) J something in some radios. if you replace the jumper and remove the capacitor 220uf or 470uf one.(near finals it will return to around 4 watt dead key) The result of 4 watts is modulation is flat;where if you adjust it to 2 1/4 watt to say 20 watts it will be very loud and modulation is at 100%.
no need to increase power output. you can take a radio with 100 watts and a radio with 10 watts that had had a modulation kit installed and the 10 watt radio will out talk the 100 watt radio ALL day long. the best thing to do would to put a mod kit in it and have the dead key cut back to 1/2 watt then put as little amp behind it. with those mods it will be loud and clear. hope that helps
sounds like the finals are tore up, maybe 1 of the dual finals is working and the high power side is out. You said it puts out just 2 watts and that is what it would put out on low side. Do you especially break-up after it warms up a little. If it works better cold and when it warms up then your finals might be shot.