Question about LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

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Leaking door my lg front loader is leaking water from the bottom of the door

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Get a thin rubber ring of the same diameter of the door and fix it around tightly then the water wont leak out

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: LG WM2688HM front loader is leaking water around the door seal

this may be coming from the soap dispenser and running down round the door way and to the bottom- investigate that first. otherwise the seal may be worn/ damaged and needs replacing.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: water leaking out front of maytag washer

Remove the top cover of the machine. Check to see if the three tubes going into the dispenser drawer hv not come loose. Tighten well.

Posted on Sep 11, 2007

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: My front loader is leaking water from the bottom

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: lg front load washer leaking from bottom of machine

I just fixed this problem - there is a rubber hose that hooks the bottom of the drum to the drain and recycle pumps - it is ribbed and it developed a hole. To confirm and repair (repair can be done from the front of the machine)

  1. Unplug the machine.
  2. Drain whatever water you can from the machine using the stoppered hose behind the bottom left panel
  3. Unscrew the visible screw holding the plastic in place near the drain hose and filter
  4. If you can pull the plastic recessed piece out, there is one screw visible behind it - unswcrew this. If you cannot pull it out now, you should be able to get it after you remove the screws in step 10
  5. Pull out the detergent drawer (push in the middle back "botton" to release the drawer to pull out fully)
  6. Unscrew two screws in the drawer area.
  7. Pull the top of the electronics assembly away from the machine and lift the assembly out (place on top of the machine or hook it out of the way)
  8. Open the door and remove the spring loaded wire around the door seal (be careful as the seal can be torn)
  9. Pull the seal away from the metal front panel, then close the door
  10. Remove four screws at the top of the front panel (that were behind the eletronics assembly) - If you already have removed the screw from step 4, proceed, otherwise lean the top of front panel out and pop the plastic out, hold panel in place and remove that bottom screw from step 4.
  11. Lift front panel about two inches, swing the entire front panel to the right and set against something - You should now be able to see inside the machine.
  12. There is a black hose right in the middle - when I squeezed mine a little, I could see where the water was dripping out from the bottom.
  13. There are three clamps - two that can be squeezed with pliers and removed, one that has to be unscrewed (phillips head screw - it is a bit blind as the screw faces the back of the machine) - Once I got mine off - I could see the hole.
  14. Order replacement and reassmble in the opposite order

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: LG front load washer -- water leaks

First, clean off the bottom of the door glass where it contacts the gray tub gasket when the door closes. Any hair or other build up can result in leakage. Second, if that does not completely solve your leak, you can move the location of the spring which holds the tub gasket from the very bottom (6 O'clock position) to the hinge area (9 O'clock position). Third: Sometimes, the reason you get a leak is due to the installation. If the washer was pushed into place by applying pressure in the center front of the washer, the outer front panel can be slightly deformed (inwerd) resulting in leakage from the door. If that is the case, sometimes you can remove the outer clamp and outer part of the gray seal and pull out on the front panel to correct the situation if it is not too severe, rather than replacing the entire front panel.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: How do you repair a leak that appears to be coming from the lower hinge of the front loader door?

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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1 Answer

Leaking water from front of door. Replaced boot seal but still leaking. It looks like door is kicked out at the bottom. Would replacing the hinges help?


Try turning the water pressure down. If you have high water pressure the water comes into the dispenser to hard and splashes over the front & side of the dispenser draw the trickles down the inside of the front panel out on to the floor. Very common front loader problem.

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Is the drain line clear? Also sounds like time on water inlet is running to long. Front loaders don't use that much water.

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My LG front loader is showing an "FE" error. The water seems to continue running into the tub, leaking out the door.


Good morning

I looked this up to make sure I was thinking the right way. The FE means there is too much water in the machine... lol bet you already knew that. Since water is actually coming out of the machine it looks like a bad fill valve. The plastic piece your hot and cold water lines hook into is not shutting off all the way.

I hope this helps

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1 Answer

I have an LG front loader washing maching, model# WM2277H* I have changed both the hot/cold water value and the washer is still leaking.


if leaking on front unit : check rubber seal front glass door. if it ripped you should change it.
If leaking behind unit : check water hose , is it placed properly ?
If leaking under unit : call technician to repair it.
good luck.

Mar 25, 2011 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a LG WM2277HW front loader washer . The door doesn't close all the way. It locks, but is kind of loose. I don't get any error messages, and it cycles fine(washes fine), but as soon as it starts...


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

If it is physically possible on your machine I would suggest that the door catch need adjusting, either that or it's broken but the door sensor still thinks it's OK ;-0)
Suggest a service call required ;-0)
Sorry,

John C

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How do you change the front door seal on a LG 7kg front loader washing machine


Well I have the manual. If you want it.If the problem is water leaking out the door LG recommends you shim the door latch with washers. This would make the door close tighter and eliminate leaks. See page 36

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Check the door seal for tears and the drain boot from tub to drain boot for anything that might have put a hole in like a piece of metal from an under wire bra which front loads will spin so fast that the wires come out of the bras.

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Could be the bladder from the drum to the door of the door seal. It could also be the drain pump hose.

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1 Answer

LG WM2688HM front loader is leaking water around the door seal


this may be coming from the soap dispenser and running down round the door way and to the bottom- investigate that first. otherwise the seal may be worn/ damaged and needs replacing.

Mar 16, 2009 | LG WM2688H Front Load Washer

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