I HAVE HAD MY MALBER TD700 FOR ALMOST 3 YEARS NOW. LAST YEAR WE HAD TO REPLACE THE DOOR LATCH. I EMAILED MALBER AND PURCHASED A NEW LATCH. THEY WERE VERY HELPFUL AND SENT DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO PUT THE NEW LATCH ON. NOW IT IS MAKING NOISE WHEN IT TUMBLES CLOCKWISE AND IT VIBRATES AS WELL. WHEN IT TUMBLES COUNTER CLOCKWISE IT DOES NOT DO THESE THINGS. THE DRYER WORKS PERFECT OTHER WISE. COULD THIS BE A BELT PROBLEM?
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Re: DRYER VERY NOISY AND VIBRATES
It would seem that this is a mechanical issue and therefore would require that the unit be opened for visual inspection. Based on your description, it could be the suspension system or the mounting of the tumbler. I doubt if it were the belt since any deformity of the belt would be exhibited in either clockwise or counter clockwise. It could be the belt tensioner though or the mounting of the drive motor. Often these are nothing more than rubber support much like in principle as engine support in a car.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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What does the display say? Typically, these Kenmore dryers don't run because of a door latch error. We have had to have our door latch replace 3 times in 3 years. There is a lengthy trouble shooting program to bypass the latch error but it is time consuming.
Malbers use a thermal (heat acting) latch to hold the door closed, so it stays latched for about 2 mins after being turned off. This is to give you time to think before you open the door and possibly spill water all over your feet. When the little bi-metallic piece cools off, it bends to one side (inside the latch assy) releasing the catch, and the door can be opened. Sometimes, the bi-metallic part bends OK, but the latch catches and won't release. It just needs a little vibration to free it up. A smack to the latch area (on door or face of Washer) will free the latch.
I tell my customers: Don't pull too ******* the white door handle. If you can't open it with your little finger (seriously) it's not ready to open!
Malbers use a thermal (heat acting) latch to hold the door closed, so it stays latched for about 2 mins after being turned off. This is to give you time to think before you open the door and possibly spill water all over your feet. When the little bi-metallic piece cools off, it bends to one side (inside the latch assy) releasing the catch, and the door can be opened. Sometimes, the bi-metallic part bends OK, but the latch catches and won\'t release. It just needs a little vibration to free it up. A smack to the latch area (on door or face of Washer) will free the latch.
I tell my customers: Don\'t pull too hard on the white door handle. If you can\'t open it with your little finger (seriously) it\'s not ready to open!
This problem is usually the front door latch "interlock" is not engaging. This is the safety device which keeps you from opening the door and pouring gallons of water on your feet. When you close the door, if the machine DOESN'T recognize it's closed - all electricity is cut off and the machine does nothing. If the machine DOES recognize the door is latched, the latch will lock and you can't open the door (for about 90 secs after you turn it off or unplug it). Does the door LOCK when it's closed? If not, just close it harder several times. A medium "slam" almost always takes care of a "sticky" interlock - and it doesn't hurt anything.
Mike, in Washington D.C., again. Of course you can do it yourself.
First call Joel (Malber in NY) at 800-600-8913 or 516-294-6660 . Tell
him which model machine you need a door latch for (if you aren't sure,
check label in rear).
Once you've received your new latch assy (about $20):
Open door, and notice white plastic "ring" around glass is actually 2
pieces (front and rear) snapped together - with a seam around periphery.
Unsnap (separate) them by either getting your fingernails into the seam
and pulling them apart - or prying them open with a spackle knife or
thin screwdriver blade. Once it starts coming apart, just work the
opening all the way around.
Remove front "ring" and set aside.
Using a 1.5mm Torx screwdriver, remove 2 small screws holding broken
latch assy. Note the way the ends of the spring go under the 2 screws.
That's the way it has to go back.
Slip new latch assy into place, pressing vertical "hinge pin" and ends
of spring into slots (near screw holes).
Replace 2 screws. Test latch with door open - is it working? Try
closing door. All good?
Replace front "ring": Open door and, while pulling out on latch handle,
slip the ring over the latch handle and get it into approximate
position. Let go of latch (it snaps into "closed" position) and adjust
ring so it doesn't bind the latch handle (meaning it's free to move).
Now, beginning anywhere on outside edge, begin snapping rings together -
and continue all the way around.
Test that door latch still operates smoothly and that door latches shut
FYI: There is no adjustment for this latch assy - it just fits precisely
where it's supposed to.
Good luck and God Bless ...
Clight16 is very likely to be correct. I repair Malbers (in the Wash. D.C. area) and have found door switches to cause these symptoms 90% of the time. BUT, that doesn't necessarily mean replacing the switch. Here's how to test: First, check out the little square hole where the door latch (on door) fits into the machine. You'll see a white plastic "frame", and behind it, a black plastic piece that slides to the right. We'll be sliding that "slider" a little later. OK. Turn machine off (if it's been on). Wait about 2 mins until "safety latch" disengages. (Don't force handle - it can break!). Open door. Set top right knob to "Off" position. Press "Start" button (power on). Turn top right knob to "Beginning of wash cycle". Because door is open, nothing happens - yet. Finally, using a small screwdriver, or other thin object, slide that black plastic "slider" over to the right (about 1/4 inch). Don't be afraid. There is nothing anywhere back there that you can hurt - or that can hurt you. It's totally safe! That simulates the door closing and the metal latch forcing the slider over. My hunch is, the machine will start working (filling with water). If so. you have a simple (and free) fix. The problem is: the metal latch is not forcing the "slider" over to the right far enough. To fix: You need to "allow" the latch to move a little further to the right. To do this, you'll enlarge the hole (on the back of the door) the latch protrudes through. The square hole is sized to stop the spring-loaded latch in the exact right spot. Press the latch back, and file (or scrape) away a little plastic on one side of that little square hole - so when you release the latch, it snaps over a bit farther than it did before. You only need the latch to "lean" over a LITTLE farther (1/16") so only remove 1/32" of plastic. That should do it. And may God bless.
I am a recently retired appliance engineer of 20 years
this sounds like a door interlock problem, have you had it in bits, for some reason, it sounds like the wires have been reversed, it may be that the interlock has moved or been damaged, or has just gone faulty, check wires on the interlock are not shorting out, these can normally be sen after removing the lid, start with that and post if still having problem
for reasons of safety the machine should not be left plugged in if children about
work with safety, unplug when working on machine