I have two realistic mach one speakers and the woofers are compleatly messed up and need to be replaced. On the magnet of the woofers it says 6 Ohm's, i want to know if i can replace them with a 4 Ohm woofer. By using a 4 Ohm woofer would it fry the internal crossovers, or do any damage to the tweeter or mid. or anything elce?
Hi my name is kelly, i also have a set of mach ones but mine are not liquid cooled thay are the first model before the liquid cooled which is model number 40-4024a not 40-4029. in that case i have asolution to your problem i know of a place that can totaly repair the hole woofer,the surrounds,the dust cap the hole thing back to its origianal look and sound. go to www. speakerex.com and talk to a rep, this company has been reparing speakers for many years, thay are located in orlando florida i have already talked to a rep already and thay have givrn me prices already if the speakers need to be refoamed it would cost 50 to 75 dollars to fix, or if they are realy messed up bad they can be totaly reparid back to brand new for 90 dollares each plus shipping thanks kelly
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your speakers are of an incorrect ohmage, or you have too many speakers hooked up to it. your stereo likely calls fo a singler 4 ohm (4?) speaker per channel and the factory speakers may be lower than 4 ohms, or you have several speakers hooked up to the same channel. there should be 4 channels, each with no less than a 4 ohm (4? ) load. two 4 ohm speakers wired to the same channel in parallel (both attached to the amp's poositive/negative leads) will create a 2 ohm (2?) load, and overheat the amp. if the 2 speakers are a woofer/tweeter combination, and there is a capacitor involved, it may be ok, but 2 woofers, or a woofer and a subwoofer hooked to the same channel will likely reduce the ohmage below 4 ohms (4?). look at the back of each woofer speaker, and look for an ohmage rating stamped to the back of the speaker magnet to verify that they are 4 ohm (4?) speakers, and verify that only a single 4 ohm speaker is hooked to each channel. the car likely has multiple speakers hooled up to each channel, which would lower the ohmage rating below 4 ohms (4?).
Sort the guide by woofer size. Measure and match the hole opening, approximate volume of the speaker box and the -3db cutoff specified by Sapphire to something in the guide. Look for 4-ohm models, of course. Also, if you know the sensitivity rating (87db or similar), shoot for the same rating.
In order of importance -
DB match - get it wrong and the speaker will sound dark or bright.
Impedance match - get it wrong and the crossover frequency will not be correct.
Volume / F3 match - Will affect bass response.
As Sapphire is long gone, aftermarket replacements are your best bet. You might be suprised at how good a shot in the dark will sound. PE has a good return policy if you take care not to mess up the drivers during tryouts.
Speaker lesson here. For space and time, I'll not get into certain nomenclature. Working from top to bottom, you have the cone, rubber surround, basket, spider, voic coil former, voice coil, and the magnet. The binding posts are connected to the tensil leads which connect to the spider and the voice coil. As the woofer is positively + and negatively - charged, it creates a magnetic field which moves the woofer up and down. There is a small gap between the magnet and the voice coil and former that's called a magnetic gap. This gap is what helps the speaker to move up and down, and creates the Xmax. The Xmax of the woofer is the maximum linear excursion the woofer can travel without causing permanent damage. With a blown speaker, normally the voice coil and voice coil former have been pushed out of the correct magnetic gap, usually around the top of the magnet. That means that the only way to fix it is to take the woofer completely apart. My suggestion is to just go and spend the money. A blown speaker is a sign of abuse, and voids warranties from the majority of companies out there to include Kicker.
If the cone is damaged, it is possible to get it 're-coned'. If you can find a shop that does this type of speaker repair.
Otherwise, call around music stores (by that I mean places that sell musical instruments and PA gear) and see if they sell/sevice Mackie. If you are comfortable taking the old woofer out, just order the part and DIY.
It is not critical that the woofer is an exact replacement (doesn't have to be a Mackie speaker), the important things are:
1) it fits and screws back into the speaker cabinet
2) it is electrically similar to the original (same impedance 4 ohm or 8 ohm) and wattage rating
+ output from amp to + input of 4 ohm to + input of 8 ohm AND - output from amp to - input of 4 ohm to - input of 8 ohm is a parallel circuit = 2.66 ohm impedance load for amp
+ output from amp to + on 4 ohm - on 4 ohm to + on 8 ohm - on 8 ohm to - of power amp is a series circuit = 12 ohm impedance load for amp. Clear as mud??
Clear as mud?
I wouldn't try reinventing it by replacing the driver. Drivers and their enclosures are designed to work together. And this being a self-amplified subwoofer, there is one more piece that's electrically optimized to the rest. Don't mess with it.
Why don't you just set your receiver's individual relative speaker volume levels so the sub isn't weak by comparison to your other speakers? Weakness, as you call it, is relative.
Is your receiver properly channeling Low Frequencies to the sub? Experiment with the cutoff, too.
not sure what size you need but dayton audio subs are pretty killer check them our parts express usa, i a have a set of realistic mach ones with one of my drivers blown i did some searching and found parts express, due to rave reviews and the specs on what i look for in subs dayton is the way to go,happy hunting-z