Question about Pioneer PRO-710HD 64" Rear Projection Television
I have had the same popping then the screen goes out. It has been doing this for about three or four weeks off and on. I would turn the master power off wait, then turn it back on. This has been working until now. Nothing.
I have traced it down to the board that has the cable inputs going into it.
with the wire that goes into the T4 input disconnected the power board does not go into shut down mode.
I am going to out on a limb and say that it has nothing to do with the T4 input. If so, disregard. If the T4 is actually just a coincidence, please read the following:
If you are still running your set with the intermittencies happening occasionally, TURN IT OFF NOW AND UNPLUG IT UNTIL TIME TO REPAIR THE BOARD! If it has shown signs of occasional malfuction and you are still running it, you are playing Russian Roullette with your multi-thousand dollar investment.
if you are currently using your set while it's in this
compromised condition of blue flashing, inconsistent brightnesses, shutdowns - not only are you
risking a ground letting go on a regulation circuit, causing your voltage to go into runaway, but
you are also risking spikes going directly downline to the rest of your set. Hinky connections
cause spikes. There's no way to protect the rest of your set from these spikes by installing a
surge protector on your main power plug, which is way too far away from the circuitry concerned,
downline from the PS board, to be of any help. The PS board has spike filtering on the incoming
120v from the wall plug, but that doesn't matter because it delivers its results DIRECTLY to the
rest of your set, and the same filtering does not exist at the tail end of the PS board, only at
the nose/incoming end.
If you get a new PS board, there will be a new set of
high precision voltages going downline to the rest of
your set from it. The original voltages are what the
set was set up on originally, they were sent downline
from the original power supply bd to the rest of the
circuitry, where everything was set up according to
them. Voltage regulation is generic, and only has to
wind up being within certain parameters, which means a
great deal of difference may be there among the
voltages, between the old board and the new board.
As such, I do not recommend getting a new board from
Pio for this purpose on the x10 models of Pioneer Elite, like this one, and some of the x20 models, which used the same PS board. I instead recommend
having the original PS board resoldered by someone who
knows the ins and outs of how to do so without creating
solder bridges in the super small connections – which
are all over that board, and in massive quantities. It
is not a job for the faint of heart, nor the
inexperienced or ill-equipped. I am the only service
repair tech I know of who is doing what needs to be
done with this board, tho some DIYers claim to have
done so as well. Others have found the board they
resoldered has gone out later, when they didn’t do it
to the level at which I do it. Boards I resolder don’t
go bad weeks, months or years later, like the original
Pio board has done. And like those resoldered by many
DIYers have done. When I resolder that board, I bring it to the level the other boards in there are already at - continuous non-problematic use from then on. There are many boards in there, yet THIS one is the only one with the problems. This was due to an inadequate solder flow job way back when the unit was originally produced. I cure that problem permanently.
DIYers can do it too, as long as they have the comprehensiveness, dedication, persistence and patience it takes to do it to the level at which it needs to be done. Not everybody has that.
If you would like me to do the resoldering op on your board, contact me directly and I'll send you the proper info on how, where to send it to, and how much it costs. Hint - it costs less than getting a new board from Pioneer and having a local Pioneer authorized facility install it for you.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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