Are you willing to fix a power supply for a Akai lct2662?
I replaced 19 caps on the power supply then turned the tv on only to have one of the caps I just replaced pop open. The tv did show a red light until that happened. There isn't any local shops in my area. If I send to PS to you, about how much would it cost? Thanks
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Re: Are you willing to fix a power supply for a Akai...
You may have inadvertently swapped one of the caps and didn't install it in the correct polarity... Or one or more regulators are also bad... Or there may be some more and severe damage caused by the swollen (popped) cap - especially if the cap was in the 100mf range or above...
Can't really quote something like that until I was able to see and test it. However, I will charge the same as our shop rate: $29.95 plus shipping for the estimate and based on the estimate if you choose to have it repaired I'll waive the $29.95 - shipping is repaired or not.
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If you have the original fuse, it's the number stamped on one of the end caps after the three letters denoting the fuse type. Most manufacturers also print the fuse rating on the power supply circuit board ("Caution: replace fuse only with...")
I have one of these sets in the shop now, but I haven't opened it yet. Post a reply if you can't find the fuse type and rating, and I'll let you know what my project uses.
I assume you already know fuses in TV sets don't blow by themselves, but indicate another part is shorted. Check the diodes, transistors and power ICs in the power supply before plugging the set in. If you see any bad capacitors, fix those also.
You're getting some feedback on the secondary transformer - most likely... Try to isolate where the pitch is coming from and see if it's harmonic. May just need to be glued down or have some leverage place against it...
I have to assume that your post is some question concerning the SMPS on the Akai TV and then further assume that you're dealing with a dead condition??? That given, you probably need to replace several caps on the SMPS that can be ordered as a kit. The kit supplies 19 caps in-all (4) 3300/35v, (8) 2200/25v, (6) 1000/10v and (1) 1000/16v the last seven 1000uf caps can all be 16v if you order the smaller style.
That is assuming you are experiencing a dead condition on your set. It is best if you can give a tech a little more to go on than "power suply" if you're actually wanting any real help.
Power supply most likely... It's a common problem with this particular model and we've seen quite a number of them for exactly what you're describing.
You need to replace 19 caps in the power supply 4) 3300uf/35v, 8) 2200uf/25v, 6) 1000uf/10v, 1) 1000uf/16v and you can go a little higher in the voltage of each cap for greater reliability.
It's best to have an ESR meter also and test the remaining caps as well.
Power supply most likely... It's a common problem with this particular model and we've seen quite a number of them for exactly what you're describing. You need to replace 19 caps in the power supply 4) 3300uf/35v, 8) 2200uf/25v, 6) 1000uf/10v, 1) 1000uf/16v and you can go a little higher in the voltage of each cap for greater reliability. It's best to have an ESR meter also and test the remaining caps as well. Bill
Replace 19 caps in the power supply, 4) 3300uf/35v, 8) 2200uf/25v, 6) 1000uf/10v, 1) 1000uf/16v and ESR the remaining caps for good measure. That should repair the problem in about 99% of the cases. I do several of these a month...
The problem is the electrolytic caps in the switch mode power supply. They are located on the output side of the supply board. You can tell which ones are bad by the "bulge" on the top of each cap. All need to be replaced..