My unit is equipped with a float switch in the auxillary drain pan to kill the unit if the pan fills. The unit is 11 years old. I have noticed that some of the newer installation have a float switch also located in the promary condensate drain. Should I add this to my unit?
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Re: Float Switch on primary condensate drain.
I think...yes. Stopping the machine before the water fills the secondary pan couldn't hurt, but don't take the secondary switch out. (Wire it in series with the primary switch.) Air conditioners get plugged up in places besides the primary drain pipe and the secondary switch wii catch anything the first one misses.
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The thermostat is the device that determines when the A/C unit starts up. It will require a 24v source (transformer most likely in the air handler) to provide power for the control. If the 24V is present, and the t-stat is calling for cooling, then there is probably a safety device preventing it from starting.
One such common safety device is a water level or "float" switch that detects water level in the pan under the air handler. These are most often found in homes that have the air handler in the attic space. Normally, these pans a dry or have a a few dropsof watrer in them. Condensate is created when warm, humid air is passed over a cold coil. It is collected and routed outside. If there is a problem getting the condensate down the drain pipe in the air handler, it will drip out of it onto the attic floor. This is why a shallow pan is installed under the air handler. The pan will collect the condensate and is piped outside and down to the ground. If the pipe has become clogged - preventing draining - the water would overflow the pan and ruin the ceiling in the space directly below. The float switch prevents the signal from the thermostat from turning on until the water has drained to a safe level.
Check the pan - if it is empty, the switch may have been distrubed and actuated - even though there is no water in the pan. Operated the switch to make sure it can move freely. There may be other safety devices inline like the float switch. You'll need to follow the circuit and find where it is being interrupted in order to make the repair / correction.
When our unit was moved with a full condensate pan, the switch lever became lodged in the "full" position and the unit wouldn't heat. This is how I fixed it.
1. Unpug the unit. 2. Remove 8 screws from the housing. 3. Remove the rear housing, swinging the bottom away from the chassis. 4. Remove the front housing similarly, taking care to release the tabs from the vertical chassis rail, and avoid stressing the wire leads to the control panel. 5. The condernsate float and switch are at the right front at the base of the chassis. Assure that the float is free from obstruction and debris in the condensate pan. Assure that the switdh lever is free to travel to the limits. 6. Re-assemble the unit it reverse order.
You probably have a tripped condensate overflow switch. This switch can be on the primary drain line, the secondary drain line, or inside the unit in the condensate tray. Find the safety switch and reset it. It almost always will be some type of float switch. So you will have to get the water out so it is not floating or it could possibly be stuck.
Hope this helps.
Is the inside unit running, if yes is the contactor pulled in outside. If no try locating float switch on emergency drain pan ( could have a clogged emergency pan drain line)
Any further information you could provide could be useful in diagnosing your problem
Refrigerant Standing Pressure
Power at Disconnects for A/C units and if so whats the voltage
Breakers in Electrical Breaker Box (Any Tripped or in the off Position)
Water present in emergency pan underneath Air Handler
What pieces of the A/C Equipment or running if any ( Air Handler, Condenser Fan Motor, Compressor)
RAC Product = Heat Sink Sensor Error, Open/Short Cct or over 95C. Commercial Product = Condensate pump float switch risen. Check drain pan is empty, check pump is working OK. If no pump check blue jumper plug is inserted in socket CN Float.
make sure your drip pan is not filled with water. This can cause the "float switch" to shut your unit off to prevent water from leaking all over the place. Simply use a wet vac to unclog the pvc drain line located outside by the condenser. sometimes these lines get buried. check for water around the outside (condenser) unit.
I think your talking about an emergency drain pan. Is condensation building up on the outside of the unit? If it is, it means that the unit is not draining properly and the is too much water sitting in the main condensate pan. If you don't have the emergency pan, then the condensate drips from the unit onto the ceiling in your attic. I'm assuming a lot of things but this is what I think you are asking. You will have to find an ac supply company that will sell you an emergency pan and then it must be piped to the outside of the home or it can be plugged but with the use of a float switch. This switch will shut the unit off if the main condensate drain becomes clogged. You should have a professional come and wire a float switch unless you are knowledgeable about a/c equipment. I hope this answers your question.
You do not mention the model, I presume that it is a cassette, in which case the float switch is located in the indoor unit. You have to remove the cover which is 4 screws. First make sure all power supply is turned off. Then remove the drain pan which surrounds the fan blade. You will see in one corner of the unit a slightly deeper part of the drainpan, this is the corner where both the condensate pump as well as float switch is located. Before you do any of this, give a serious blow into the drain pipe from outside and this may dislodge any sludge which may be causing the floatswitch to stick. You can also pull out a rubber plug which is under the pump on the drainpan.
Does the indoor fan run in on? If yes then you have 24 volts on the control system.
Do you have a float switch on the Air Handler?
If your Air Handler is in your attic the secondary pan can be full tripping the float switch.
also If red is broke on the float switch nothing runs.
If the drain line plugs up the float switch shuts the condenser off to prevent flooding.