Question about Ruud Matching Split Air Conditioner

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Float Switch on primary condensate drain.

My unit is equipped with a float switch in the auxillary drain pan to kill the unit if the pan fills. The unit is 11 years old. I have noticed that some of the newer installation have a float switch also located in the promary condensate drain. Should I add this to my unit?

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I think...yes. Stopping the machine before the water fills the secondary pan couldn't hurt, but don't take the secondary switch out. (Wire it in series with the primary switch.) Air conditioners get plugged up in places besides the primary drain pipe and the secondary switch wii catch anything the first one misses.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Blower wont work inside attic


2006 and later models used an X13 non capacitor motor. A high percentage of them have failed. Warranty is 5 years on parts, you pay for service.. A new one cost over $500 plus installation. If your are lucky It could be the condensate line is clogged. The drain pan fills and a float switch turns the unit off to prevent water damage from overflow.

Aug 08, 2014 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

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Where is the lockout switch on the ruud home air conditioner located


breakers & or fuses are used. some units have a switch if you have a panel off it wont run. some have a float switch in auxillary pan that shuts off unit.

May 27, 2014 | Ruud Heating & Cooling

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No 24 v to contactor


The thermostat is the device that determines when the A/C unit starts up. It will require a 24v source (transformer most likely in the air handler) to provide power for the control. If the 24V is present, and the t-stat is calling for cooling, then there is probably a safety device preventing it from starting.

One such common safety device is a water level or "float" switch that detects water level in the pan under the air handler. These are most often found in homes that have the air handler in the attic space. Normally, these pans a dry or have a a few dropsof watrer in them. Condensate is created when warm, humid air is passed over a cold coil. It is collected and routed outside. If there is a problem getting the condensate down the drain pipe in the air handler, it will drip out of it onto the attic floor. This is why a shallow pan is installed under the air handler. The pan will collect the condensate and is piped outside and down to the ground. If the pipe has become clogged - preventing draining - the water would overflow the pan and ruin the ceiling in the space directly below. The float switch prevents the signal from the thermostat from turning on until the water has drained to a safe level.

Check the pan - if it is empty, the switch may have been distrubed and actuated - even though there is no water in the pan. Operated the switch to make sure it can move freely. There may be other safety devices inline like the float switch. You'll need to follow the circuit and find where it is being interrupted in order to make the repair / correction.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Apr 10, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an asko d3251 dishwasher that won't stop running. The device in the drain that spins won't stop. I had to shut the power off to the unit.


Our unit had leaking connection on outlet side of fill solenoid valve. Any leak will cause water to accumulate in base pan. there is a float switch in base pan as a safety mechanism when water is in pan it causes a styrofoam float to rise and make contact with switch. This tells machine there is a leak creates error code to run pump continuously until water is removed from base. Disconnet electric from unit first. you must pull dishwasher out to get at back panel. Remove lower back panel to get access to mechanicals of unit. Once you remove panel you should see water in pan. If you see water that is most likely same issue we had. soak up excess water or tilt unit to drain water out of pan. once water is gone unit should start normally. If you look underneath while unit starts up - don't touch anything while unit is connected to electricity! You should notice where water is coming from. Our unit leaked at hose connection from outlet side of solenoid fill valve. connector is a plastic cam-lock fitting with a flow sensor integrated into it. there is an o-ring between the two parts. it comes apart with a very small amount of counter-clockwise motion. perhaps only five or ten degrees of indexing and it falls right off. it is a very flimsy connection for the main water line. the o-ring on our unit Was slightly deformed and not seated correctly. could have been from original installers 4 years earlier! Asko needs to re-design this part. I replaced o-ring and unit is working again however I do not trust that this fitting will hold up over time. Very poor design in my opinion. Other design flaw I noticed while looking at mechanicals is circulating pump isolation mount is not in correct location for pump motor. rubber mount is stressed to the point of almost tearing off! No way for me to correct this since location of mount does not match position of motor. We will not replace this unit with another ASKO when it goes.

Jan 19, 2013 | Asko D3251HDSS Stainless Steel Built-in...

1 Answer

My split air conditioner,s compressor is not starting , whtat to do?


Check for obvious things like a blown fuse or open service switch near the condenser unit (the outside part). Make sure that power (most of these are 240V) is available to the unit. Please, do not work on live electrical equipment unless you are 100% sure of what you are doing. You don't get a second chance at these voltages.

On the thermostat, make sure the mode switch is set for cooling, the fan switch is set to on or auto and the temperature set point is set below the current room temperature. If a programmable type thermostat, make sure the time, date, and program are correct; or override to manual mode so that your settings are followed. Check the air handler to make sure that filters are not clogged with dust and dirt - if they are the unit may have iced over the cooling coils. If this has happened, replace the filters and allow time for the ice to melt off the coils. Many air handlers have large, shallow pans installed under them when located above a living space. This is to collect condensate that leaks out of the unit. A pipe will be connected to the pan to allow the pan to drain this condensate off to the outdoors. If the pan is full of water, the drain pipe is clogged and will need to be snaked clear to empty. Locate the float switch. The float switch monitors the water level of the pan, so once it is empty - the switch float arm should be resting on the pan floor - not in the up position (which prevents the unit from starting).

These are the most common home-owner correctable issues that will prevent a unit from starting - there are many others that require advanced skills and equipment to detect and correct. Some of these are: low refrigerant gas, bad motor, bad start / run capacitor, bad relay coils, bad transformer, bad thermostat, the list goes on and on.

If all these items listed above are ok, the unit should attempt to start. If the unit still will not start or buzzing sound is heard professional service is likely required.

Good luck!

Aug 20, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

2 Answers

Once the 'condensate tank' is drained the unit will NOT reset....The tank full light stays in and the Unit continues to run the fan, but will not heat ...for HOURS........Help.....I realy did


When our unit was moved with a full condensate pan, the switch lever became lodged in the "full" position and the unit wouldn't heat. This is how I fixed it.

1. Unpug the unit.
2. Remove 8 screws from the housing.
3. Remove the rear housing, swinging the bottom away from the chassis.
4. Remove the front housing similarly, taking care to release the tabs from the vertical chassis rail, and avoid stressing the wire leads to the control panel.
5. The condernsate float and switch are at the right front at the base of the chassis. Assure that the float is free from obstruction and debris in the condensate pan. Assure that the switdh lever is free to travel to the limits.
6. Re-assemble the unit it reverse order.

Apr 21, 2012 | Soleus Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hello, we have a Kennmore ultra wash model 66513482k900. The problem is it will not run through any wash cycles at all. It will not do anything, we can select nothing on the panel. We have replaced the...


The symptom your describing certainly sounds like this is a fill overfill circuit problem. The fact that you can only drain the unit and nothing more points directly to a fill overfill problem.

If the overflow switch is activated that is exactly what the unit will do. The overflow switch is item 11 this link:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dishwasher-Parts/Model-66513482K901/0582/0130000/K0908008/00006?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
(PART NUMBER: 8268909)

Additionally if the float is stuck in the UP positon from food particulate build up on the stem it will not fill with water ever. The float assembly is item 13 of the above link. You can clean up the float assembly and the float switch most of the time and get the unit to perform normally. Occasonally parts are required but on a 2 year old unit I seriously doubt either part has failed. Just clean them up and test again. I think this will resolve the problem.
I just have issues with Sears in home service not even considering either float assembly or the overlow switch as the most probable cause of your symptom. In all seriousness if Sears was the reason for having a control panel change you have the right to ask that the part be removed and your original control panel re-installed. Your money and labor expended installing the control panel should be refunded refunded.
You really need to get in touch with the Sears Service manager and tell that person you want a competent technician that will correct the problem. I.e. do not send the previous tech out for any reason other than to reinstall the old control panel. After that... send someone else but fix it. Had you called me and I had one of my techs change a control panel that did not fix the problem the tech would be working that job for free..... The only thing you would be charged for on a call back would be labor to install any additional parts and the cost of that part. NO SERVICE CALL charges on a call back. (Just my 2 cents)

Check the float switch POWER REMOVED... by gently raising and lowering the float. You should hear a click near the top of the float travel and again as the float lowers. The over-flow switch works in the same manner. Clean up the stem on item 13.... below link and it should work.

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/K0908008-00006.png

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Sep 22, 2011 | Kenmore Dishwashers

1 Answer

Drain pipe was clogged. I cleaned everything in it. When I went to turn the unit back on, it did not come on. Is there some type of reset switch that I can hit to get it on. Yes, I checked the breakers,...


You probably have a tripped condensate overflow switch. This switch can be on the primary drain line, the secondary drain line, or inside the unit in the condensate tray. Find the safety switch and reset it. It almost always will be some type of float switch. So you will have to get the water out so it is not floating or it could possibly be stuck.
Hope this helps.

Sep 03, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

"Check drain" light is on


If the float switch is indicating a full drain pan, the light will be on and the compressor and fan will not run. Make sure the dehumidifier is installed level and the condensate drain is open allowing the drain pan to empty. Next check that the float is free to move up and down and the switch operates a required. Call the manufacturer at 1-800-533-7533 for parts and instructions if there is a problem wirh the float switch.

Aug 06, 2011 | Therma-Stor Santa Fe Compact Dehumidifier...

1 Answer

Why does my engine cut off?


Possible reasons are;
  1. Water condensation in the gas tank has partially filled the carb float bowl. Bikes don't run well on water. Remove the drain plug on the float bowl to drain the bowl.
  2. Install a new spark plug to eliminate possible carbon shorting.
  3. Check the side-stand kill switch. Broken or out of adjustment it can intermittently kill the engine.
  4. A loose or dirty plug in connection on the power wire to the coil.
  5. Bad kill switch on the handlebars.
  6. An abraded kill switch wire or power wire.
Start at the top and work your way through the list. If that doesn't work you will need to go to the dealer and have them check the coil, CDI and other ignition components.

Jan 15, 2010 | 2006 Yamaha Ybr 125

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