Oven shut off - no power- checked circuit breaker no problem. oven came back on thye next day and is working fine. is this an overheat problem -is there a circuit breaker on the oven that resets? what should I look for?

Caroline
most likely oven got too hot
Is it a Fisher and Paykel electric oven ?

If it stays on the oven after it cools down
remove the power to the oven
may have to flick off circuit breaker or pull the fuse to oven electrical circuit.
Wait 30 seconds and flick on circuit breaker or put fuse back .

My 20 year old electric Jenn Air range recently flashed the F7 error code and beeped repeatedly. I shut off the circuit breaker until it cooled. The next day I turned it on and everything seemed fine. We baked a pizza and the
erro repeated when the oven was shut off.
I opened the front panel and noticed the wire ribbon connecting the front panel to the display was slightly askew. How that happened is beyond me. I pulled out the ribbon hold down clips, pushed the ribbon in all the way, and
replaced the hold down clips. The range is now working properly after replacing nothing.
The cheapest fix possible.

Turn off the circuit breaker panel and wait about 15 minutes and then turn them back on. If it still isn't powering up, check the terminal block where the power goes into the oven. Look for burnt wires & use a voltmeter to measure your AC coming into the oven. If that is all good, look for at your thermal fuses and make sure they are not open. If that's all good, then your control/relay board might be fried and it would be a good idea to call in a service technician.

Anyway, that's a start. Good luck!

It could possibly be you are not getting 240 volts to the range. The top igniter may be getting a current back through the other side of the 240 circuit and that is why it works when the oven is turned on but the oven will not be getting power to heat. Have the 240 circuit checked or make sure the circuit breakers are reset correctly.

What you need to check is for power at the clock.TURN OFF BREAKER gain access to clock and use volt meter. One the clock will be wires maked L1 & N on those 2 wires when breaker is turned back on their should be 120 vac. IF 120 vac at those 2 wires,replace the clock, if not 120 vac into clock check for burnt/broken wires

Your kitchen outlet plugs have nothing to do with the oven. It gets power from it own dedicated circuit breakers. They are marked as either 30-40-or 50 amp and are a double breaker, two beakers connected by am arm or bar. It is possible for one of these two breakers to fail and cause your problem. If you have already tried to rest the breaker by turning it off and back on, with no results, then you will need a qualified electrician to check you the circuit. Your oven runs on high voltage, 220-240 and attempting to do any repairs can be hazardous.
It might also be that the problem is in the oven itself. A failure of the ovens internal control circuit would also cause your problem.


Any chance the oven is still under warranty? Even if not under manufacturer warranty, it still might have an extend warranty if purchased with certain credit cards,(MasterCard or American Express)
Good luck, J

Hi, Check to see if there are any lights working, such as the ones that come on when you open the oven doors. If there is absolutely no power going to the unit, check the household circuit breaker panel that services the oven.
An oven works at 240 volts so the circuit breaker for it will be a double breaker, similar to the ones
electric water heaters or air conditioning units. It may have tripped. If it is tripped, then
the lever connecting the two sides of the breaker will not line up with other breaker switches in the
breaker panel. If that is the case, shut down the breaker completely and then after about 10 seconds,
turn it back on. If it will not stay on, there is an electrical problem in the circuit going to the oven or the oven itself. Hope this helps. Let me know if your need more help.
Best,
Mark

For me the solution was in the temperature sensor. The Locked light kept flashing and the door locking mechanism kept cycling when the door was shut or if I just held the oven light switch in the closed door position. After replacing the control panel I still had the same problem. Next I turned off the breaker and then took off the wire covers on the back of the oven and disconnected the temperature sensor. I then checked the continuity of the sensor which was fine. With the sensor still unplugged, I turned the breaker back on and the panel said locked but the locking mechanism was not cycling. With power still on to the oven I connected the temperature sensor. It worked. All I had to do was press the clear button on the touch panel and everything was fine. I turned the breaker back off and reassembled the oven. Hope this helps.

The problem is they overheat because hot air is drawn in by the blower and overheats the outer chamber of the oven where the thermo fuse link is. The one or two fuse links are blown simple replacement but have to remove oven (two person job) remove outer shell and find it (them) in the back of the oven. Also the fuse link wire going into the main processor is probably blown.

Bat, your model number is right on accurate. Here's the scoop... the F3-E2 means the temp sensor inside the oven cavity needs replacing, but I doubt that your problem is the sensor. The problem is your "microcomputer". I call it an ERC for short. There are 3 separate circuits on your ERC; low voltage for your keypad, medium voltage for the mechanical relays and high voltage for you elements. When you program a cook time/temperature, the ERC translates this into medium voltage and activates the proper relay on the ERC (i.e... "bake", "bake w/ convection", etc...) to send high voltage to the proper component. All of that to say this, the relay on the board that activates the bake element is "welded" shut. When powered off, the relay won't open up! This will result in run-away temps. I've seen this before on Whirlpools. The ERC will have to be replaced, the part number is #8302994 and lists for ~$180.00 at your local appliance parts store. If you need assistance with the replacement procedure, post back. If you decide to get in there without posting back, DISCONNECT POWER AT THE BREAKER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICE.