F1 code after maytag MES5570 heats up and then oven shuts down.

SOURCE: F1 Error Code on MayTag range

migs, on a Maytag the F1 indicates there is a problem with the touch-pad or control itself. Usually, it's the touch pad. Try killing the power to the range and remove the touch pad ribbon from the control board. Clean it with an eraser. Power back up and see if the error comes back. If it does, remove the ribbon cable again and power up with-out it attached. If the same error still returns, then I would suspect the control board itself. Catriver..post back.

SOURCE: I have an electric Maytag,digital

Hi Mearill,
Happy to help you!

At this site you may download a manual !
http://www.maytag.com/support/manuals_literature.jsp

I would advise you on this occasion to call service.

These guys are good!
A&E factory service does most brands warranty services.
They are open 7days/24hours nation wide.
call tonight! 1-800-905-9505

I am happy to assist you!
Neil
PS. Before you leave this site please leave a "Problem Solved" rating for me on fixya.com

SOURCE: Oven Failure Code F1

F1 is a Relay circuit failure . you have a bad relay PCB or wire connection.

to fix your F1 error
92028 RELAY PCB, 105 C

SOURCE: I get an "F1" code on my Maytag range.

you need a new temperature probe. its usually located in the upper left hand corner in the rear of the oven.

SOURCE: oven not working error code F1 and beeping

On ranges where the electronic control and keypad are permanently attached to each other (ie. not separately replaceable) like on your range, a faulty oven sensor or problem in the sensor's wiring circuit can cause that error code on some models. Most oven sensors used these days should read about 1100 ohms when at room temperature.

Here are some juicy pearls of appliantology wisdom from our friends at Maytag for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here’s a simple explanation of what’s going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:

a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (1.e., not cooking) mode or

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn’t high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn’t happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you’re gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel –don’t spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

Most likely culprit: Temp Sensor
CLICK HERE

That cylindrical object is the sensor. It's two wires connect to the ERC. You can remove those wires from the ERC and test the resistance with an OhmMeter.

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