Question about Kenmore Oasis HE 27082 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. hence, the reason why you can get it to work sometimes by lifting and closing the lid. As you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:
This is a simple and inexpensive repair if you wish to accomplish this on your own. A replacement switch usually cost between $25 and $35. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.
NOTE: For future reference, it is strongly recommended that you do not slam the washer lid or place heavy objects on the lid. This can cause damage to the lid switch.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
This error only shows in diagnostic mode, with power off choose any buttons except stop and power, press in intervals 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off until 88 appears and all light light up. If the user panel is faulted F 2 will flash in the display, press the same button you used to start diagnostics to jump to the next error code and once through 88 will flash and diagnostics will start. Sometimes once F2 flashes and the machine has not been repaired it will stick at that mode.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
SOURCE: Doesn't drain water and spin
It sounds like your drain pump is either clogged or bad. Bail out as much water as you can with a cup and then check the pump. There will probably be something in the pump stopping the impellor blades. There will also be alot of water so make sure you have towels and/or a bucket when you take the pump off.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
LF is a failed water inlet valve either hot or cold sets the code, try using just hot then just cold settings and see if the code goes away, if it does then the hot or cold water solenoid valve at the back of the washer is defective
Posted on Sep 16, 2010
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I'm pretty sure I know what you're referring to and contrary to what has been posted by another FixYa memeber, it likely is not the motor assembly...more often it is just an item stuck under the basket/drive hub as most with REAL experience would know.
In fact I can explain what needs to be done to gain access and repair though it is pretty involved (via removing the tub...it's pretty easy once you see how...much easier with the manual and some guidance).
As I alluded to, it is most likely the drive/spin basket hub under the inner basket (spin basket) and it is being jammed by a sock, undergarment or the like, but you'll need to remove the complete outer tub assembly unfortunately.
This almost always manifest's in the "oL" error code (possibly even error "UL" & "F51") and prevents proper wash or spin...though it usually will certainly fill and drain O.K...unless the error appear's many times it may simply go into a shut down/no action (F1) mode.
I can provide a follow up post on how to do this, including pictures and step by step guidance if you think you are capable, or I alternatively can provide you a service manual if you post an email address.
I'll watch for your reply. Thank's for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 18, 2011
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