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Hair straightener not heating up

When connected to the mains supply, the power is there but its not heating up.

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It sounds to me like the thermal cutoff switch has blown. Straighteners havethese as a safety device similar to a fuse to protect against fire inthe event it gets too hot. These are not very costly to replace.Here is a link to where you can buy them and what they look like:

http://www.welco.com.cn/?gclid=CJiWv7TN2ZQCFQpzHgodl1LXQQ

Make sure you get one of the exact same cutoff point as the onedesigned for yours. If you put in a higher temp device it will beharder to blow but will make it dangerous as it may cause a fireif it over heats. Some shady repair men will just bypass this and it will work again fine but this is a dangerous practice as itdirectly puts you of danger. If you do have it repaired at a shopdemand for the old thermal cutoff from your unit when you drop it offso the tech will know you know what is wrong with it and that you willcheck to make sure that it has really been changed. This will also notgive him the chance to over charge you when he knows you know it isonly a 1 dollar part and easy to change.
This device is very easyto change, If you can open your unit you could easily do this yourself.The part, as you will see on the site where you buy them, only has 2wires one coming out of each end. You simply cut out the old 1 andreplace it with the new one. You do not even have to worry which endgoes where. It is like a fuse, it works the same either direction. Youhave to buy some wire crimp connector to connect it, you can not justsolder it in due to the heat in the iron. In a pinch you could justsecurely twist the ends of the leads with the leads from the old cutoffif you clip the leads from the old cutoff real close to the device.This will leave you with plenty of wire to get a good twist. I alwaysuse the crimp connectors so it looks more professional.
Anyway, Ihope you found this to be helpful and if you need more help feel freeto ask me. I will stay with you on this until we have it fixed.
George

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Receiver main power relay tripped in 2 secs.all i disconnected speakers still tripped.i disconnected again power amplifier main power supply still tripped.


There is either a shorted part in the power supply section or a shorted part (say a transistor if it uses them) in the main amp section. This will be located on the big heat sink. Power supply culprits are transformer, any semiconductor device, such as power regulator, rectifier etc.

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KEF PSW 2500 Relay buzzing and audio output buzz


Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.

Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.
The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.

A service manual for a similar model is available at following link, refer to power supply section:-
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/35375/kef_psw2000.html

To replace,
1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.
2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)
3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.
4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.
Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.
The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track.
Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.

A user tip- don't leave unit switched on when not in use- heat buildup will eventualy cause it to fail due dried out electrolytic capacitors.
Poor power supply design is the main source of the standing heat buildup.

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UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLY


UPS – UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLY
Uninterruptible power supplies provide protection against mains power faults to computer equipment.
These faults include voltage spikes/interference, over voltage and under voltage, mains supply interruptions and surge protection etc.
These faults can cause computer and electronic equipment that are connected to an unprotected mains supply to malfunction and/or sometimes fail.
A common problem, when burning Cds, DVDs etc. any slight power interruptions to the burning process will halt the recording process and rendered the disc useless.

There two type of Uninterruptible Power Supplies
The lower powered and cheaper type UPS are switch-over types, when the mains supply fails, the UPS switches over to the batteries and inverter in milli-seconds which then supplies mains power to the computer and peripherals. A faulty inverter circuit and or flat batteries won’t deliver standby power when the mains supply fails.
NOTE : The mains waveform from these UPS is a pseudo sine wave (i.e. not a true sine wave).
The true UPS types are usually the higher KVA units (over 1500 VA) that supply continuous mains power. The mains power is connected to a charger which charges the batteries and then the inverter draws power from these batteries and converts it to true sine wave mains power to the computer equipment, therefore there is no switch over time lag when the mains supply fails.

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1 Answer

What does F1 mean


The Fault Code/s will show up in the appliance Display
F0 - No Alarm Signal
Replace Main Electronic Control
F1 - Door will not Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power
F2 - Door will not Un-Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power Supply? Check Control Thermostat
F3 - Self Test Error
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply
F4 - Shorted or Open Circuit Oven Temperature Sensor
Replace Oven Temperature Sensor, Check Sensor Harness Connection between Sensor and Control Unit
F5 - Relay Contacts Failed - Sticking
Replace Main Electronic Control
F6 - Power Board Temperature Too High
Check Correctly Installed, Check Cooling Fan Assembly, Ducting and Airways
F7 - Incorrect Polarity - Mains Supply
Check Mains Connection - Live & Neutral round the wrong way
F8 - Power Supply to Interface Problem
Check Wiring Harness, Replace Main Electronic Control
F9 - Procesor is Auto Resetting
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply

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How to find what is wrong with stereo amplifier that heats up but the transformer does not, and the fan doesn't go on, music was sporadic, now just not working?


Check for possible malfunction / heating of your amplifier power bank. Power transistor defective or leaky or else speaker terminal connections intermittent leading to disconnection of speaker load that heats up output power bank ( maybe power bank protection circuit if there not working )

Check the power bank and re-solder speaker connection / output terminals.Check for dry solders / loose connections in the power bank.

Run a thorough check on all solder leads !

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SC565
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The best way to test the power supply is to leave the power unit connected to the computer power up the computer and test a spare 4 wire power connector with a multi-meter. Leave the other power leads connected to the various drivers.
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The Red and black wire should read 5 volts.
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If the mains lead is OK then most likely the switch mode power supply has died.

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