I have removed the front panel of the cabinet cleaned all lint within the cabinet. I cleaned the humidity sensor with alcohol. Discovered a loose end of a grounding wire (should be connected to what?) at the right side of drum are, about 8 inches in length (female end of blade type connection). I tried the dryer in both timed and sensed drying. The igniter glows, the flames are present but for 20 seconds (I timed it) for both timed and sensed drying. I assembled the dryer, concerned about proper air flow, the same thing occurs.
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Re: loss of heat
You hit on the key word, proper air flow. It must be right or the flames shut down. As long as the ground wire is attached to metal, you are o.k. But you should find it, the "male" end nearby. If not, you can attached it with good duct tape that won't come off.
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Yes remove the back panel it is only held on by about 6 to 8 screws.
It's best to lay the drier on its front before you remove the panel as it can twist after the panel is removed.
There will be 2 wires that go to the heating element that can be disconnected at the terminals. These wires may also have a zip clip holding them to the panel.
I would just clean the inside of the cabinet with a vacuum and inspect the heating element before reassembling.
A leading cause of poor drying results in that type of dryer is lint build up in the blower/lint filter housing. That build up will restrict air flow through the dryer causing very long dry times. To repair that the front panel would need to be removed and clean all the lint build up from that housing and blower wheel area.
To remove the front panel DISCONNECT POWER TO THE DRYER, on the bottom of the dryer inside of the door rim will be 2 phillips headed screws,remove those and lift off the top. At the top corners where the front panel connects to the cabinet will be 2 more phillips headed screws remove those and the front panel will pull off and out of the way. With the front panel off the blower housing will be in the lower left side clean lint from it and also the sure to clean all the lint from the lint filter housing which will be attached to the back side of the front panel. In addation to cleaning that area be sure to check and clean the exhaust duct tube as well.
Could be that the breaker open on the heating elements. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ Look at post on "no heat" in this forum will work you through your problem
So I just bought one of these and had to clean the lint out to get the dryer heating again. Open the cabinet doors and there are 4 screws pointing toward you" that will get the console off. Take those off and remove the console, taking care to properly disconnect the electrical connections. Then there are some screws at the top off the front panel that you need to take out. Remove those and the front panel and, again, watch the electrical connections. On the inside of the front panel is where all the lint collects. I got near a wastebasket full and once I cleaned it out the heat was working just fine again. Good luck to you.
If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.
2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).
4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.
You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.
NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Place a putty knife in the space between the upper and lower panel at the front of the dryer about 4 inches in from either side to push up the retaining clips while pulling on the panel. This will release the lower panel and give you full access to cleaning all the main components.
The heater is on the right and the motor on the left behind the ducting. A thorough cleaning requires removal of the front duct which is the area below the lint filter. It also includes carefully cleaning the motor, including both ends, of lint to reduce heat retention in the motor windings. Don't forget to clean the vent that penetrates the wall. Airflow problems are often caused within the areas you can't see and should be checked and cleaned yearly.
Reverse the above process to reassemble unit. Good Luck.
Hi, If the lint screen is at the top of the dryer, remove the screws located at the lint screen. Then pry the top by inserting something flat into the gap between the top and the front panel. Now locate the screw inthe upper inside corners and remove them. Now the front will lift up and release from the cabinet. If the lint screen is inside the door, the lower half front panel will release and let you see under the drum. I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
When you say "starter" I assume you are talking about the "ignitor" and it is glowing.If the ignitor stays glowing continuously then the radiant heat sensor, normally closed, is not opening OR if the ignitor lights up than turns off after about 10 seconds but no flame, then the coils (doesn't matter which one of the two) are bad. The coils are located on top of the gas valve and the radiant sensor is located on the side of the burner chute....Good Luck The Squirrel
The font panel must be removed. This may be done by removing the control console (open upper cabinet doors to find screws behind the console). The screws along the top of the lower front panel are easily accessible. Disconnect the two interlock switches, remove the grounding clip attached to the bulkhead & lift the panel off the two lower clips. Inside the panel is a housing that leads to the exhaust blower. It will be packed with lint that may be hardened like papier mache. Just clean out the mess & reverse the process to replace the parts.
Insert a putty knife into the seam where it meets the front panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a small retainer clip that you will need top depress in order for the panel to release. If you go to searspartsdirect.com and enter your model number, you can find a helpful illustration under the "Cabinet" heading. The clips I mention are listed as item 46 just ot give you a perspective. I would also strongly recommend that you UNPLUG the dryer before cleaning the interior cabinet. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Particulary around the heating circuits. I hope you find this information helpful.