I have removed the front panel of the cabinet cleaned all lint within the cabinet. I cleaned the humidity sensor with alcohol. Discovered a loose end of a grounding wire (should be connected to what?) at the right side of drum are, about 8 inches in length (female end of blade type connection). I tried the dryer in both timed and sensed drying. The igniter glows, the flames are present but for 20 seconds (I timed it) for both timed and sensed drying. I assembled the dryer, concerned about proper air flow, the same thing occurs.
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Re: loss of heat
You hit on the key word, proper air flow. It must be right or the flames shut down. As long as the ground wire is attached to metal, you are o.k. But you should find it, the "male" end nearby. If not, you can attached it with good duct tape that won't come off.
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i looked up your model and it looks like you haave to remove the top panel and then the front panel to get to the inside cabinet,if on the front you do have an access panel on the bottom then yes you want to remove the bottom front panel,pull out the lint filter,remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean that,then with a shop vac vac out the cabinet,then set the shop vac up to blow and blow all the lint from the back forwards and blow off the motor,this way you don't have to pull the belt and drum.when that's done go to the back and remove the vent line from the dryer,if it's a long run to the outside,go outside and make sure the duct is open,no cage or screen blocking it,go back inside,stick a leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out.do this once a year and your dryer will run better and last longer but mostly you won't have a fire.hope this helps.
A leading cause of poor drying results in that type of dryer is lint build up in the blower/lint filter housing. That build up will restrict air flow through the dryer causing very long dry times. To repair that the front panel would need to be removed and clean all the lint build up from that housing and blower wheel area.
To remove the front panel DISCONNECT POWER TO THE DRYER, on the bottom of the dryer inside of the door rim will be 2 phillips headed screws,remove those and lift off the top. At the top corners where the front panel connects to the cabinet will be 2 more phillips headed screws remove those and the front panel will pull off and out of the way. With the front panel off the blower housing will be in the lower left side clean lint from it and also the sure to clean all the lint from the lint filter housing which will be attached to the back side of the front panel. In addation to cleaning that area be sure to check and clean the exhaust duct tube as well.
Unplug the power cord of the
Whirlpool dryer from the electrical outlet before installing a new belt.
Remove the lint filter from underneath the lint filter cover. 2 Unfasten the screws underneath
the lint filter cover with a screwdriver, setting the screws in a safe
place. Slide a putty knife between the dryer top and the cabinet near
the front, lifting up on the knife to detach the top from the plastic
clips on the cabinet.3 Flip the dryer top back against
the wall so it is resting on the rear hinges. Locate the screws on the
inside of the upper front panel near the top.4 Unfasten the screws on the
inside of the upper front panel with a screwdriver. Lift the panel up
off the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet. 5 Unplug the door switch connector
from the back of the upper front panel by hand, setting the panel out
of the way. Slide the putty knife between the lower front panel and the
dryer cabinet, pulling the knife away from the cabinet to detach the
panel from the plastic clips on the cabinet.6 Place a couple of wood blocks
under the lip of the dryer drum to hold it in place. Locate the idler
arm near the motor at the base of the dryer.7 Move the idler arm forward to
relieve the tension on the belt. Take the belt off the motor and idler
arm pulleys, lifting the drum up and sliding the belt off the drum.8 Install a new belt around the
dryer drum, looping it over the idler arm and around the motor pulley.
Move the idler arm back into position to add tension to the new belt.9 Remove the wood blocks from
underneath the lip of the dryer drum. Plug the door switch connector
into the back of the upper front panel by hand.10 Slide the upper front panel over
the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet, securing the top of
the panel with screws. Fasten the lower front panel to the front of the
dryer cabinet, pressing the panel onto the plastic clips by hand.11 Flip the dryer top back down
onto the top of the cabinet, pressing down to secure the top to the
plastic clips on the cabinet. Fasten the screws underneath the lint
filter cover with a screwdriver.12 Slide the lint filter back under
the lint filter cover by hand. Plug the power cord of the Whirlpool
dryer into the electrical outlet.
you need to unplug the dryer,then with a putty knife stick it in between the top panel and the front panel and there are clips one on each side that you release with the putty knife and remove the front panel or you could have two 5/16 inch screws on the bottom of the front panel but i believe your model has the clips,when you remove the front panel you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside cabinet where the motor is,put it back together then pull out the dryer and remove the vent line from the rear,if it's a long run to the outside you can stick a leaf blower inside the vent line and blow all the lint out to the outside hood,before you blow it out go outside and make sure the hood is clear then blow out the line,
Could be that the breaker open on the heating elements. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ Look at post on "no heat" in this forum will work you through your problem
If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.
2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).
4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.
You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.
NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
You need to remove the front dryer panel clean dryer completely of lint . Even where the lint filter is . Also make sure the vent hose is not kinked or filled with water and lint . I changed a thermal cutt-off 3 times in a dryer within about 2 weeks time . On the last time , removed the front panel and filter housing , and a big ball of lint fell out . Cleaned vent housing and inside of dryer and no more problems since .
first pull it away from the wall, then clean out the lint from the vent, then you will need to pull the front panel off, you should find 2 screws inside the door opening, and then you will need to pop loose the tabs from the bottom
easy, get some high temp adhesive before opening up.
then if lint screen on top, remove screws under cover, pull top forward and lift. it hinges in rear. remove 2 screws on front holding front panel to cabinet sides. disco door sw and lift front panel up to remove. undo belt from motor , note setup with spring roller.
if lint screen in door, remove contrl console, screws under end caps(pop off frame end caps from top). remove screws at rear of top holding it to rear panel. and slide forward. to remove. remove lower kick panel (use putty knife, hidden clips in seam), remove screws holding air duct to blower housing, disco wires to moisture bars at connector. remove screws holding front panel to cabinet, then at top and remove panel remove springs if necessary. pull tensioner away from belt and remove belt.
lift drum up and out. note gasket flange orientation and pull off. clean and sand off old as well as possible and apply glue to drum as you apply new gasket, it will be tight at end.
The font panel must be removed. This may be done by removing the control console (open upper cabinet doors to find screws behind the console). The screws along the top of the lower front panel are easily accessible. Disconnect the two interlock switches, remove the grounding clip attached to the bulkhead & lift the panel off the two lower clips. Inside the panel is a housing that leads to the exhaust blower. It will be packed with lint that may be hardened like papier mache. Just clean out the mess & reverse the process to replace the parts.