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The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. First Check to see if the valve is getting water. Make sure it’s not clogged. There is a screen on the inside of the valve, this sometimes gets clogged up with debris. Check to see if you get power to valve when unit is put into operation may take a couple minutes to start a fill. If you have power and it’s not clogged up replace the valve .If you have no power to the water inlet valve check float switch. This can be done by checking the continuity. There is a video of this at http://appliancehelponline.com/dishfloatwaterinletvideo.htmlthis will walk you checking the water inlet valve and the float switch. It may be a different model but the testing procedure will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for most models. All parts come with installation instructions.
First, are you sure that the machine is not filling?
I go on calls all the time for this problem and it turns out than the machine fills but the wash motor does not run.This leaves soap in the bottom of the DW so it looks like it did not fill with water. This is a common problem in dishwashers that have not been run for a few months, and is quite common after a remodel. If it IS getting water, the motor is probably stuck. If it is Not getting water the first step is to locate the "over fill" float inside the dishwasher. This will be a round sort of mushroom looking thing on the floor of the machine near the door on the right or left. Make sure it moves freely up and down. It will only move about 1/4 inch but If it is stuck up, the machine will not fill. If float is O.K. then check the water source. Turn of water to DW. Remove the kickplate under DW door and disconnect the waterline from fill valve (should be on front left side of unit). Run waterline into bucket then turn on the water. If you don't get water call your plumber. If you get water then you need to check the fill valve. Connect a volt meter to the 2 wires on the fill valve. Start DW. First the diswasher should start draining, then it will start filling. At this point (a few minutes into the cycle) you should see 120v AC at the fill valve. If you do see 120v Ac, replace the valve. If you don't , then turn off the machine and check the float switch. This is located under the DW right under the mushroom thingy. The switch should have continuity when the DW is empty. If there is no continuity then replace the switch.
You don't know how many times I've heard and found the shutoff valve off or partly turned off. Water entering DW is from line pressure not pumping. Items to suspect (again) the water supply valve (would'nt be the first time a new valve is bad). The supply valve (3374621) at the Dw, the float safety switch (normally at front left side,)...remove lower rack, lift float housing up and down. You should hear a click both ways and the housing should be free. Is the Dw fill valve getting control signal from timer. Should be 120v for about 60 sec.
check the following- remove the wires from the fill valve.close the door and start the unit.u should read 120 v as u start the unit.if u read 120v then fill valve is bad.if not then chk and make sure the float is sitting completely down and float sw is closed.the power to fill valve goes throug this sw.if all is ok and still there is no power then u may not be getting power from cntrl board and control board could be bad.but that rarely happens.turbidity sensor does not affect the fill operation.good luck.
D/w's have a fill valve that allows hot water into the tank, a safety float and switch
that will cut the power to the fill valve if the water level inside the d/w gets to high. Check if to see if it is gunked up...clean it thoroughly
A DW not filling is often the
fill valve. You can
test the fill valve
coil for continuity with a
ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You
can also test the fill valve
for 120 volts at the
fill valve with a
volt meter, power there and no
fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the
trouble maker. Test things like the
float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are
very bad for working once or twice and then
quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water
through the rest of the cycle, replace the
You will need to
remove the access panels to get at the fill
valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance,
this can also get all clogged
up and need to be cleaned.
I know you said it was replaced....the way you ohm them is to remove the power wires and ohm the valve if the needle pegs out or moves considerably the valve is good...
Many dishwashers will drain at the beginning of any cycle.
If the water does not fill after the pump-out cycle, then the problem is either the fill valve or the float switch. You should be able to hear the float switch click as you raise or lower it. The fill valve usually hums whenever it has power.
If the fill valve has power but doesn't open, (use a voltmeter) replace the fill valve. If there is no power at the float switch, nor at the fill valve after pumping out, then the clock / timer is at fault.
Make sure you have water coming to the dishwasher. Next check your dishwasher float. Make sure it is not sticking. If not you could have a problem with your fill valve. Check for voltage at the fill valve if you have 120V then you need a valve the solenoid is defective. Replace it.
My Maytag MDB6650AWW dishwasher would not fill. The lights on the panel were on when I tried the wash cycle. I tested the water valve but no voltage was found during the cycle. I thought it may be the timer/control circuit. I traced the power from the door switch and found no power going to the float switch leg. I found two wires completely cut through (one going to the Water Valve) and three others partially sliced.
Certainly sounds like the float is stuck in the over filled position or possible a bad float switch. Could also be a bad water
fill valve - if you can blow air through it when removed then you need to replace it.
You can follow this link to troubleshoot your washer, but note that its not exactly for your model - http://www.thermador.com/replacementparts/main/pdfs/SHU-complete-troubleshooting-guide.pdf