Our freezer is getting a tiny bit cool, but not freezing at all. The fridge is room temperature, even after 4 hours of having it turned on using the propane fuel. The boiler is hotter than the absorber area, but both are HOT.
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The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
The temperature is not set to high cooling.First check the temperature setting.But if temperature is set right and still the ice cream is not cooling then .Problem relates to weak compressor.
problem is weak compressor.The refrigerant ( R12) in the compressor is got
low.The compressor is weak.The compressor needs to be replaced.--------------The working procedure of
this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer
section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts
functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and
the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the
fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located.------------But as you mentioned that ice cream is not freezing, so that means freezer is not freezing to its required temperature.------- This indicates problem with compressor.When compressor cools the
freezer section then fridge section gets cold.If freezer section is not getting
properly cold then fridge section will not cool properly/.So the problem
relates to compressor.---------- In the compressor there is a refrigerant
called FREON.With the help of this Freon the compressor cools the freezer
section.Freon is a gaseous type cooling agent.The compressor will stop cooling
when coolant gets leaked from its chamber.---------Again recharging the
Freon is possible, but the cost for that recharging is approx the cost of new
compressor.So its always advisable to get compressor replaced.Because new
compressor has warranty for few years.------------------You can get required
parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from
searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant.
I suggest you to contact the service authority.
cooling unit is bad my friend there is a temporary fix but in my opinion not worth your time take the unit out and flip the refer upside down this sometimes dislodges the blockage in the cooling unit all a rv fridge is is amonia and salt if not used all the time the salt crystalizes in the orfice and blocks the unit a rebult cooling unit 550 about and labor 4 hours at your dealers rate a new fridge about 1500 installed
my shop 360 for labor 550 about for unit 910
I ALLWAYS RECOMEND REPLACING THE FRIDE COMPLETLTY
you get all new electronics and a new box
sounds like your defrost timer is not working properly . Most fridge/freezers the fridge gets cooled from the cool air from the freezer . But when the defrost timer is not working properly the section between the fridge and freezer freezes up and hence doesnt allow the flow of cool air into the fridge. The defrost timer can be easily replaced.
You more than likely need to replace the control cable between the upper and lower board. It comes as a kit with the upper board. You can also do a bypass test by unplugging your thermoster from the circuit board. The thermoster is the temperature control for the refrigerator nothing to do with the freezer. email@example.com www.coachtech.info 734 777 6432