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My camera's advance isn't working properly it doesn't move completely to the right the way it should to fully advance to the next frame (It is a manuel) an older camera. What can I do to fix this? It is a Minolta X9, Thank You.

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Sometimes there is an arm located in the bottom area of the camera that gets damaged. It is forked shaped on one end and lies below the coupler for a winding attachment. The other end of the arm attaches in the middle of the camera. You can remove the bottom cover on this camera fairly easily to have a look, you won't hurt anything.

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

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If the pictures are fuzzy, increasing the resolution won't help. The most likely causes of fuzzy pictures are as follows
1) Focus. Check to make sure the focus is on the subject. If something else in the picture is sharp while others are not, then the camera may have focused on the wrong subject.
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In your particular case, I think we can assume that the subject isn't moving, so #2 doesn't apply. To assure proper focus, make sure the painting is flat and perpendicular to the lens axis. If the painting is tilted relative to the camera, then different parts of it will be at different distances and the camera won't be able to keep all of it in focus.
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I hope this helps - and good luck!

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My kodak V1253's ON button doesn't work, and the lens remains partly extended.

Ran into a similar problem with mine...when button was pushed the camera tried to turn on, opened then closed the shutter and then powered down. Of course it was out of warranty so this is what I did. I couldnt find a guide on how to dissassemble the camera so that is why I 'm posting a guide on how to now.
I took apart the camera to make sure the gears in the lens were not destroyed then checked all connections before I start with an in-depth some pointers, when you get the case off, the capacitor will still be charged if it is properly taped this should present no problem to you, mine was not. The capacitor looks like a AAA batt. with the pos side on the top end (if the camera is sitting upright) there should be a piece of factory installed tape completely covering the top of the capacitor if not, use a small piece of electrical tape to properly shield the device, and you, from shocks.
Ok--here we go. remove the six screws around the edge of the camera to free up the two sides. The front and back should come off easily now exposing the screen on the back and the lens assembly on the front. Remove the screen carefully by lifting the top of the screen away from the camera and remove the small peice of tape holding the bottom of the screen in place. There should be two ribbons connected to the board. The ribbons are held in place by a swivel type connection. It rotates from the inside out, if you need a visual search you tube. Lift the connectors releasing the screen from the board and set aside. Now remove the screw holding down the handle strap that sticks out the side, and the other two screws you have access to now that the screen is removed. the last screw is on the far left beneath the final piece of the external frame. The last piece of frame comes off easily if you make sure to help it around the bottom plug in jack. This will loosen it up enough to give you enough room to remove the last screw and completely remove the final peice of the frame. Again watch out for the capacitor at this point is where I got four good shocks before I found where the tape was torn. The flat metal peice should come off with the frame.
Next we need to remove the lens assembly. The two ribbons for the lens should now be exposed, remove them same as the ones for the screen. (mine were loose possibly creating the problem I was having) The assembly will all but push out except for one small grey bushing that holds a small post in place, you can see it if you flip the camera over. This can be overcome if you push the camera almost all the way out of the frame then just pull it straight down, instead of trying to work it out of the small notch cut in the support. If you are brave enough remove the backing for the assembly by taking off the two screws that hold the actual camera in place then the five screws that hold the back in place. At this point you should see the inside assembly. check to make sure when the lens is manually (carefully) extended the gears rotate smoothly. If they do not, then the guts must be replaced, mine thankfully were fine. Re assemble the camera in the reverse order listed here being carefull to make sure all ribbons are fully connected and screws are sufficiently tightened. Note: when placing the back of the lens assembly back on make sure all the gears are engauged by trying to gently move the assembly in/out. they should not move if done correctly because they are tied to the motor which of couse will not move easily without power. When I placed the back on, the small inner lense moved to its highest position, resting perfectly in the small semi circular nitch in the first little lens you see.
I dont know how much this may help you specifically but it is a guidline on some basic steps to dissasembling the camera if you want to go that far...

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