Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.
Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the
whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will
work for you.
My name is Frank...
Regarding your possibly broken dryer.
I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I
won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why -
I'll explain further down.
I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my
time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they
come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that
can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way
This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed
FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only
an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to
Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as
to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the
110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that
provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.
All else is basically the same...
In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source
as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the
same as that of a gas dryer.
Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of
possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally
electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is
rare in Florida these days!
If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door,
and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss
of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to
the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken
If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot
- then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is
around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and
that does not include labor to install it).
Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.
I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas
Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer
model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for
free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same
time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that
everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the
time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....
Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE
anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their
refrigerator brands as well.
Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me
and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years
old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as
for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...
The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.
I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they
are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you
didn't know that. The best in the business!
As to your other possible noise scenario -
The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore
dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This
drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of
the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to
stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that
rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!
Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing
assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front
drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305
times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes
bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not
only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part,
but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C
part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3)
friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt
duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.
The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front
panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with
anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum.
A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER
wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's
frame which houses the door assy as well.
Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17
many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If
it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that
part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts
Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum
IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a
typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease
lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the
air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE
The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel
gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it
really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt
breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding
wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had
to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part
that I knew off.
The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing
type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower
motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper
brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a
noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go
I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able
to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always
unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up
That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also
keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if
your dryer is gas.
I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.
Again - I hope the info helps you out...
Feb 09, 2008 |
GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer