Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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Ignitor glows, but no gas

I had a friend install my new Goodman GMH950904CX 95% 92,000btu 2-stage multi speed furnace. At the same time, he installed a new A/C system (Goodman condenser and a-coil matched to furnace). A/C works great. The furnace, while I don't need it right now, won't work.

When I switch the thermostat to HEAT and turn it up to 80 degrees, the inducer fan comes on, then the igniter glows, then .... nothing. The igniter dims, the fan shuts off, then it starts all over again. There is no "click" in the valve, leading the installer to believe the valve may be bad. How likely is it that a brand new unit would have a faulty gas valve? Is there anything that could have been overlooked in the installation that could cause it to not get gas? Is there any way that I can test it? My friend has installed heat and A/C before, but doesn't have formal training or all the tools that an HVAC contractor would have. I will call a certified contractor if I have to, but I have very tight funds right now and would like to avoid it if possible. Thank you in advance for your help.

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  • timk1 Sep 26, 2008

    I have a similar problem. GMP075-3 about 10 yrs old. Runs fine most of the time however, intermitently will do the same thing...no click to ignite. I have not found any consistent solution...sometimes banging on the gas valve before the unit shuts itself off works..not always. Sticky gas valve? How do I resolve (take apart and clean?)

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I found that my exhaust pipe was installed with 2 90 degree elbows outside the house. The pipe was making a gurgling sound so I drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom elbow and got a cup or so of water out. Furnace works fine now. Why is this elbow setup used - it's perfect for trapping water and obstructing the vent.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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My gas furnace has a small to big problem. When the t-statcalls for heat the furnace clicks, The vent motor blower comes on, the ceramic electricigniter comes on, the gas to the burners start to flow then it likemisfires" or “burps several times” like gas is there but not enough orsomething like that, hard to explain". Then the main gas source stops and the vent bower runs back up andignition glows and tries the cycle again. The furnace then will start thisprocess over and most of the time it takes like 40 times before it fires and 10%of the time runs normal. The light onthe controller board (Emerson) stays solid lit. No blinking indicating a problem.

Steps to resolve:

  1. Disconnected the pvc exhaust pip to see if there was any back pressure on the exhaust at that level. – No change in status. Did seem to increase maybe the likely hood of an eventual long burn cycle. It appears that if its going there is a chance that reconnecting it makes the gas flow stop.
  2. Intake removed and the top door opened, this did not seem to have an impact.
  3. Removed the lower door and this seemed to help a little bit but not much. Longer burns to 45 seconds then shut down.
  4. Removed the Gas Flame sensor and cleaned lightly with steal wool and reinstalled. No change in status.
  5. Filed top ground green lug, attached on burner flange assembly. No change in status.
  6. Checked continuity on gas flame sensor wire from sensor to controller. .02 on meter
  7. When open exhaust is present the system definitely works longer. While burner is running lit, slowly place hand on exhaust port and that appears to trip it in the same manner when its fully exhausted.
  8. The two pressure switches are as follows: (35) parts diagram = B1370158
Left sideconnected to low end of “Flue collector Box Kit” – -0.37 PF SN:20197312 model: 9371VO-HS-0016
Right sideconnected to 11:am on the “Vent Motor Housing” - 0 95PF SN: 0130F00002P Model: 9371VO-HS-0097


  1. Went to Econotemp ( a local DIY HVAC contractor that allows for the public) and they felt it was being obstructed for exhaust via water accumulation in the Flue Collector box. Further research of similar Goodman manuals, including mine, show that the tan elbow with the orifices for condensation being on the tail extension and not on the upper inside elbow location that was currently hooked up. Disassembled the vent motor from the flue collector box and had about ½ cup of water sitting in the black plastic fan housing. Examination of the tan exhaust condensate assembly reveals a poor design. The drain in a vertical position, likely 95% of the time, should be on the long tail and not on the upper inner elbow. The small upper condensate drain is inter-connected to the long tail inside the tan elbow housing and is not readily visible. This would allow for condensate that comes back down on the center edge of the pipe to catch and the condensate that takes the easiest route of least resistance to go into the long tail. If the water rises in the tail it would have to flow over the spillway into the vent motor housing if it is not drained at the bottom of the leg which has no orifice. Therefore decided to back/re-engineer the drain system with quantity 2 - 1.2 brass barbs - one being male threaded the other female and aviator straps with clear hose to the regular existing drain. Ended with the old black condensate hose not being used. Tested and it did not back fire “burp” once. Further time testing needed to see if condensate stays out of the vent motor housing.

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

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Goodman are know for the bad pressure switches, First off is there water in the pee trap" lil grey box on the side of the unit"? if not that is your problem they " Goodman" use the water as a vaccuum for suction on the 95% furnace, IF there is water i would check the pressure switch in the top left corner should have 3 grey wires coming of of it, rmove the rubber tube from the secondary exchange " big black box bottom of the burrner area" blow and make sure it is no plugged. Second blow softly into the pressure switch reconncet and try if blowing into switch works that you got bad pressure switch.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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I think More likely it is a vent fault... not getting proper exhaust so the exhaust pressure safety switch will not allow gas valve to open. Could be due to improper sized vent pipe.... and/or blocked outlet outside ( I once had a chipmunk put a scrap of food on top of exhaust outlet! causing same problem). Also Check that vent is sloped back to furnace and that it can drain away any condensation that forms in the pipe.

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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Most likely either a bad board or no gas to gas valve. Bleed out all air in the gas line. Check for 24 volts at both gas valve and circuit board terminals leading to gas valve. No voltage = bad board.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

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