88 ford van heater won't work. blower motor is good. switch is good. fuse is good. I need to know where the fusible link is?

There isn't a relay for this year. I doubt the ignition switch is OK. I would first pull all the fuse and relays you can find(look and see if good). Then check fusible links(volt/ohm meter). Then start checking plugs. Check power and ground points(volt/ohm meter). Just a note.. I worked on the 60's to present cars.

The blower motor relay is located above the right front headlight , also there is a fusible link which is a fuse but is in wire form , make sure to also check that and see if it is brunt.

Here is a diagram picture of it to help you find it, some of this had a blower resistor but i think that this year they used the relay instead to control the blower speeds. good day hope this is helpful.

Its faulty blower motor resistor. The low and medium speed on blower motor is controlled by resistor and its actual speed is high. So because resistor is not working, blower motors actual speed which is high is working.

It can be faulty blower motor or faulty blower motor resistor. Get the blower motor inspected. If it's faulty it has to be replaced.

=======

For blower motor testing and replacing, check the link below: ----

Blower motor Testing/replacing for all vehicles?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/blower-motor-replacing-for-all-vehicles.html

------------

These will help.

Thanks.

likely your blower motor. but take connector off at blower, key on, htr on high. should have power at connector. check with a test light. If power is present, its your blower. If no power, and fuse is good, it's a wiring issue or your heater blower switch on the dash.

open the engine hood and locate the fuse box of your electronic fusible link, lift the fuse box cover and look for the diagram thats says heater, lift off the fusible link with a long nose plier and see if the center of the link is broken then you may have to purchase one with same amps

owner manual will tell you fuse layout. If you have only high speed, you have a bad resister. 4 wires.

Resistor —Heater Blower Motor Switch Removal

1. Remove the battery (10655) ; refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the battery tray.
   1. Remove the screws.
   1. Remove the battery tray.

1. Disconnect the heater blower motor switch resistor connector.

1. Remove the heater blower motor switch resistor (18591).
   1. Remove the two screws.
1. Remove the heater blower motor switch resistor.

---------------------------------

I had the same issue, however my blower motor did not work at all, heat or AC, it just did not work. It was the blower motor resistor. When I took mine out, it was brown and melted. Got a new at the junkyard for a few bucks. Works great now.

YES BLOWER HAS A 2 WIRE CONN GIVE IT 12 VOLT POWER FROM A BATT & A GROUND & IF BLOWER MOTOR IS GOOD IT WILL RUN IF IT DONT RUN BLOWER IS BAD NOT SHORE WITH WAY POWER OR GROUND GO REV. WIRES FROM BATT IF IT DONT WORK FIRST TIME

have you turned on the switch and checked for power at the blower plug? if so and you have power there then it is a blower motor if not then check fuse under dash and fusable link under hood around blower motor someplace close.

test to see if there is battery voltage present to the blower motor on the Green wire. Make sure to leave the connector plugged in. If voltage is present, try back probing a jumper wire hooked to ground and probe into the Black/Tan wire, the blower should run at high speed. If battery voltage is not present, check for power coming into the ignition switch on the Pink/Black wire. Check for power coming out of the ignition switch on the Black/Orange wire with the key in the "on" position. The power coming into the ignition switch on the Pink/Black wire comes from a Grey fusible link near the battery. most likely a Corroded fusible link near battery. Good luck Jimmy........