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Hi, I have an 8 liters instant heater bought from Kisense co. in China. The cold water entry valve has been change last winter due to freeze for a new one, but the water do not come warm enough. I see two adjustment screws on this valve, i would like to know the purpose of these screws and the proper way to set it. I send two emails to kisense but that seem to sleep over there. Have a nice day

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I think this is not an air conditioner. Please find different category to ask for advice.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have hot water in all valves in rv but NO cold water


There is most likely a valve between each hot and cold water hookup that have been left open for winterization. You have to close the valves between the hot and cold water lines.

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How do you de-winterize 28DSBH


Connect the trailer to the city water supply, turn on the water and open each faucet until clean clear water is present. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower if equipped. Next reinstall the anode rod (suburban) or drain plug (atwood) into the water heater. Go to the back side of the water heater and close the valve on the pipe that connects the cold (bottom line into water heater) and hot (upper line out of the water heater) and then open the bottom cold water line valve and, if equipped, the upper hot water valve. This will fill the water heater. Open the hot water valve at the kitchen faucet. When the water flow is steady the water heater is full and ready for use. If the unit is equipped with a water filer, after all is flushed out, turn the water off and remove the filter housing. Install a new filter and re-secure the housing and turn the water back on. If you are using the fresh water pump, it is possible that the winterizing valve for the pump was left open. If so, close that valve which will divert the pump back to drawing from the tank.

May 08, 2014 | Jayco 2013 White Hawk Ultra Lite 28DSBH

1 Answer

Winterize vcross 365 fifth wheel


I think you have posted this several times so I wanted to add this.

The best thing is to have a dealer do it. You need to know if you have by-pass kits installed, depending on what you have for storage tanks they need to be drained, RV non-toxic anti-freeze needs to be added to plumbing and flushed through, water lines should be blown out along with draining so if there is a place where the water was level it gets forced out.

Here is a quick info for a skyline, but it really depends on what you have for plumbing.

Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic anti-freeze.
2. Drain all tanks, fresh water and sewage tanks.
3. Turn water heater by-pass valves to by-pass position. (The by pass valves are located near the
water heater incoming lines - an access panel may have to be removed depending upon the
model.)
4. Drain water heater.
5. If installed, remove water filter from assembly and discard. Install diverter if included.
6. Pour an amount of RV non-toxic anti-freeze into the fresh water tank to fill the tank above
minimum water pump operating level. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful) Add more, if
necessary, during procedure.
7. Turn on pump switch and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave open until the
anti-freeze comes out (generally, pink in color). Repeat for hot water side.
8. Flush toilet until anti-freeze begins to flow into the bowl and then pour one gallon of anti-freeze
down the toilet to winterize the black tank.
9. Pour anti-freeze down each shower/tub, lavatory sink, and kitchen sink to fill p-traps.
10. To winterize gray tank(s) pour one gallon down each related sink drain.


*****Now the best thing is to post a new post and see if someone has your manual to be exact.

But if you get no response, and refuse to let a dealer do it, you have a little bit of info to help you.

Sorry I couldn't find the exact method for your model.

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1 Answer

How do you insulate a tankless water heater for winter


If you have tankless electric, it can simply be insulated... but tankless electric are seldom mounted outdoor.
Service bulletin says: "the only way of assuring protection is to completely remove the heater during those times the area may experience freezing temperatures.

There are tankless with built-in heater for exterior installation.
Check your manual, or add a comment with specific model number and maybe I can find the information.

Here's why they install tankless outdoors: Because tankless burn more fuel per gallon of hot water. This requires larger gas line and larger vent pipe than typical tank-type gas water heater that is usually installed indoors.
They install tankless outdoors, so there is no need for expensive vent pipe, and because there is ample incoming air to support combustion.
So if tankless does not have factory-installed internal heater, then the unit can freeze easily when the combustion draws in cold air.
Of course you can put heat-tapes on the pipes but the heat exchanger inside will quickly freeze during periods when hot water is not being used, and combustion is not taking place.

You can move the tankless installation inside and use correctly-sized vent and intake pipes directly through the wall. This will generally protect tanklesss from freezing if room is heated adequately.

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1 Answer

Broken water line or water heater, from winter freeze. When water is turned on tap water goes under the bunk bed area. Could this be the water heater or a hose in the area. We don't know the layout...


Depends on which tap you're turning ON. If it's cold water tap, it's probably a water line. If it's the hot water tap, it could also be a line. As heaters leak, whether the water tap is ON or NOT. Opening a tap valve doesn't cause the water heater to leak. The main question is, was the water heater's tank drained, before the Winter Freeze, when no one was using it? If it wasn't, there's a good chance the water heater will leak too

Hope this helps you solve the leaking water pipes problem. Please let me know Thanks.

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3 Answers

Water turns cold very quickly


I had the EXACT same problem (installed my tankless last winter and worked fine, now this summer it fluctuates, have to turn the shower completely off and then on again to get any hot water and then it only lasts for a couple of minutes!) Argh - it is frustrating!

Here's what I found: the demand for hot water is lower during the summer (hot) months because the "cold" water coming in is already quite warm. You don't need as much hot water to make the shower temp comfortable. SO, my tankless was shutting off due to low flow demand. I've removed the flow restrictor from my shower head and it helped alot but didn't completely solve the prob. Next step is what has been recommended to me by several people but is much more expensive - change the pressure valve on your shower to a temperature valve. Or just wait til winter and it should work ok again :)

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1 Answer

Need help


I would use the instant unit for a secondary unit to a large conventional heater, 40 gal min, gas or electric. They are both about the same now, but when the power goes out, you might not have the pump running, but you will have hot water! And whether it is a secondary or a primary water source, you will have a hot supply feeding it just in case. We have 2 people in the house, and a 30 gallon unit, and it is not big enough. The 40 gallon tank worked great. Hope this helps.

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My Lars pool heater is leaking from within the casing.


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