Question about Sub-Zero Refrigerators
Most likely you have a leak in the evaporator. Subzero warranties the parts for 12 years. Call them to find out what they will cover. They are agreat company and will be fair with you.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
OK, I think I understand. Thing is we need to do a few things to see if your control board is the problem or if the fan or a freon leak is the answer. You need to tell me if this began suddenly or if over a period of time. I have been having trouble lately from Fixya if the customer (YOU) responds to my solutions. Let me know if you want my help and I will see if I get a email letting me know of your response, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 08, 2013 | Refrigerators
For this problem, its indicating towards
problem with damper assembly.----------
The working procedure of this unit is as
follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the
freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this
cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the
freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge
section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located. ----------- The damper is
operated by a motor.Its a complete damper assembly with motor included in
it.--The damper has door.Which closes and open with the help of motor.In your
case the damper door is remained open, its not closing.Due to this the cool air
from freezer section is running in to fridge section non-stop.Due to this the
vegetables and other food in the bottom drawer freezing.--------- In this
problem the damper assembly needs to be replaced.---------------
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Oct 31, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Sep 25, 2009 | Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French...
Mar 08, 2009 | Amana ABB2227DE Bottom Freezer...
Jul 31, 2008 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...
Apr 10, 2008 | Refrigerators
Aug 25, 2007 | Sub-Zero 650 / O Bottom Freezer...
169 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!