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Your dryer very likely wont start due to a bad Thermal Fuse. This video I have attached shows how to replace the thermal fuse. I know the video says Whirlpool dryer, Whirlpool is the maker of the Roper brand and it should be exactly as shown in the video. The video shows using a jumper wire to bypass the thermal fuse if you have such a jumper wire it is effective to check if the fuse is the problem,if not just temporarily connect the 2 blue wires together and test if the dryer starts. BE ABSOLUTLY SURE BEFORE EITHER USINGA JUMPER WIRE OF CONNECTING THE BLUE WIRES TOGETHER ***DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE DRYER*** USE JUMPER,OR CONNECT WIRING THEN RECONNECT POWER TO DRYER so it may be tested to see if the dryer starts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9wEXNCnJk
I base my diagnosis on my 30 plus years as a appliance service technician.
You will need to check the thermal fuses on the dryer.they are normally
located near the heating element.If you have a volt meter you will need
to check the continuity of all the thermal fuses ad if you find one that
has not got any continuity replace it.
I do have a picture of the locations of the thermal fuses for some dryer
in my tips.To test the door switch then you will need to remove the
wires from the switch and test it the same way when you push the switch
in by hand the meter should have a tone or read zero this is good if
there is no tone or does not read zero then it is bad.
Also make sure the unit has enough power to it.
Thanks for choosing fixya i hope this will solve your problem.
The following process will allow you to test the thermal fuse and replace it if you find it open.
Unplug unit and turn off gas if gas model. Check to be sure you have 240 Volts at wall outlet.
Most parts likely to fail on electric dryers are inside the rear cover. Heater is on right inside can, safety thermostat on lower left of can, High limit thermostat (non-resettable) higher left of can. On the blower housing to the left are the operating thermostat and, in some models, a thermal fuse (white plastic). ALL can be continuity checked easily. Always disconnect wire on one side of what you are testing. One will likely be open. Replace the component that fails the continuity test.
Hi, When you turn the timer to a cycle, do you here it clicking at all? Make sure there is voltage to the dryer. The first thing you will want to check is the fuse. Since I do not have a mode# here is how to check the fuse on the rear blower style.
UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the fuse. It is white and ¼” wide and 3” long. It is located on the blower housing. Remove the wires and check to see if it has continuity. If it does not, you need to replace it.
If the fuse tests ok, let me know and I can give you more instruction.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.
based on your description, i would suggest two possibilities. the first....check the door switch
two....check the blower housing sensor (a fuse like component located at the lower rear of the dryer).. it is a small , slim part about an 1 1/4 inches long and about 3/8 ths inches wide. it has a wire connection at both ends.
a quick test for both components mentioned would be to pull the wires off and temporarily connect them together. (be sure to not let them touch anything else). then try to operate the unit.
hope this helps...........................jay
You have a Hi-Limit t'stat located at 12 o'clock on the flame shroud. A safety fuse is also located on the flame shroud at 1 o'clock. The flame sensor is located at 9 o'clock on the flame shroud. The Hi-Limit can be temporarily bypasses for a quick check, as well as the fuse, but do 1 at a time. Be sure to unplug the dryer before testing.
If that doesn't help, let me know if you need more assistance.
Warning! Shock Hazard! Disconnect dryer from power source before servicing.
I assume you repaired a wire that attaches to a white ceramic insulator terminal? If you have a volt-ohm meter, you can check continuity of the element and hi-limit thermostat and overtemp.fuse located on the element shroud. If you ddon't have access to a meter then visually inspect the element for a break in the coil. The fuse and hi-limit can be temporarily bypassed 1 at a time to eliminate 1 or the other being faulty. Also double check your heat temperature settings on the control panel to make sure it did not become de-selected. There are also temperature control thermostats attached to the blower housing in lower left corner of the dryer that can be temporarily bypassed to test for failure. Tip: Clean lint filter after each load. Clean vent to outside,(check every 3-6 months), and refrain from overloading dryer. This will help extend the life span of the element and the dryer itself.