Kenmore gas dryer, very low gas flow at orifice. has new coils, all sensors check ok. ignitor works, only sufficient flow for a pilot-like flame. Possible plugged or restricted gas valve?

The way it works is the coils the ignitor and the flame sensor are all powered up when the control thermostat calls for heat.

If all of these are good then look for these fuses

Any of these open and yall won't have no heat


This one does not have a pilot light. It is all automatic. When the control thermostat falls below 105f then it closes and powers up the gas assembly, all of the components are powered up at the same time. The ignitor has to reach 1800f to make the flame sensor trip and when it trips the power gets diverted to them coils. So make sure yall are getting power to the gas assembly first and then check the ignitor and sensor for continuity.. The ignitor does 2 jobs, it lights the gas and acts as a thermocouple once the flame is lit. if for some reason the gas were not to ignite then once that puppy cools down it shuts off the gas flow and that is your built in safety. The control thermostat alows power to the gas assenbly only until the drum temp reaches 160f. Then it opens and stops the power to the gas assembly. This is going on and off all throughout the drying process and it is normal to hear a click and a whoosh every so often. The flame does not stay on.

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The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

Their is a flame sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of coils all wired together into one assembly.
Here is the heat control and duct fuse:
Check that fuse next to that control. If it is open the dryer gas assembly won't get any power.



Manual and more good stuff HERE








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Open the trap door and hold down the lever with the red knob. Light the plot and hold it till it stays lit on it's own. Ain't been no pilot lights on dryers for many years. Today's dryers have a gas assembly consisting of a silicone carbide ignitor, a flame/ignitor sensor, and a pair of coils. When the drum temp drps below 105f the control klixon on the blower housing powers up the gas valve assembly. The sensor, ignitor and coils are all energized. The coils however wil not open the gas valve because the ignitor is drawing too much current. The sensor FEELS the heat from the ignitor and @1800f the bi-metal inside it opens and kills the power to the ignitor. The ignitor also is connected to one of them coils that has 3 wires and it becomes a thermocouple device at that point. If for some reason the gas does not ignite the ignitor cools and shuts off the gas flow. H
How to change them coils

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Their is no pilot light. The system uses a glowbarOPERATION
The newer dryers use a silicone carbide ignitor for ignition. If the Fuse is ok the gas assembly gets power from the control thermostat. The flame sensor allows the ignitor to go cat go. The coils themselves cannot open the gas because the ignitor is using a lot of power. When flame detect gets warm enough then it shuts down the ignitor and power is redirected on the other side of the 3 prong coil. The ignitor is not finished. It now is hot enough to act as a path to the secondary coil which energizes and sends that raw gas to the 1800f screaming hot ignitor. Igniton occurs and keeps the ignitor hot. If ignition at this point were to fail the ignitor would cool down and shut off the power to the secondary coil. Clever ain't it? So what can go wrong? Worn out flame sensor takes longer to reset, ignitor open. Clogged vent overheat fuse blown, bad thermostat, and faulty solenoids.If all is good it should continually shut on and off all during the cycle to regulate the heat


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Your easiest (cheapest) starting point is with the thermistor (flame sensor).
You can easily check that it is in direct contact with the pilot... and at the same time - check the ignitor is sparking

1. Check for ignition - if not igniting - replace ignitor.
2. Check/clean Flame sensor - if pilot is lit - replace the sensor.
3. If voltage at the gas valve checks out (from flame sensor) - gas valve should be replaced.


CLICK HERE to see the available parts if one of them is not working properly.

First thing to check is the vent. Make sure you have sufficient air flow to the outside. If you are not sure if you have the proper rate of flow, disconnect the vent from the dryer, turn dryer on and see if burner stays on longer. Do this with a couple of damp, spun-dry towels inside the drum. If the burner short cycles again, you need to replace the coils on top of the burner assembly. These are the two black round coils.

Hi

The pilot light flame would sometimes get very small and keep going out. This was usually because the pilot orifice was getting dirty and was partly plugged. The pilot orifice must be cleaned out when the flame becomes too small to light the main burner. You can blow air through the pilot assembly to help clean it out, don't use something metal in the pilot orifice hole or you risk enlarging the pilot gas feed hole and the pilot light may be too BIG. If your pilot flame keeps "going out", chances are you will need to replace the pilot latch do make sure the vent hood flapper is closing ok and no outside air blowing in is effecting the pilot flame.
This is a thermocouple that sensed the heat from the pilot flame and kept a small amount of gas flowing to allow the pilot light to stay lit. If you followed the instructions ( usually found inside the small access door on the front bottom ) on how to re-lite your pilot when it goes out and the flame will not stay on, replace the pilot latch assembly.

Please accept the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Dryer does not have pilot light.  There is an ignitor that glows when the dryer is started and lights the flame when the gas begins to flow.  With the front of the dryer off start it up and look for the glow. when it glows hot enough (or on a newer model it might be a spark) the gas should ignite.  When the flame sensor sees that the gas is ignited it shuts off the ignitor and keeps the gas valve open until the temperature sensor gets high and shuts it off.  When the temp sensor cools down the cycle repeats.
If no glow or spark-->bad ignitor If no gas flow-->bad flame sensor or bad gas valve coil If gas comes on and goes off quickly-->lint filter and/or vent pipe or outlet may be clogged or bad flame sensor.

The ignitor is coming on so that means you have power to the gas assembly. Next the flame sensor should shut down the ignitor when the bi-metal inside it bends from the heat. This kills power to the ignitor, which allows for the power to activate the coils. The coils snatch open the gas valve and allow for ignition. The raw gas hits that screaming hot ignitor and ignites into a glorious flame, raising the temperature inside the drum. While that flame is on, the control thermostat is monitoring the heat within the drum. When the temperature gets to a round 140 F then the power gets killed to the gas assembly by the control thermostat. If all of that seems to be happening for say, the first time, then suddenly the ignitor comes on then shuts down and no flame comes out, then you have weak and intermittant coils. Replace these puppys:



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