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What is the proper way to refill my Hot Water Boiler (Hot water baseboard system) after it has been drained?

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Your boiler should have a automatic water feeder so it should fill it self , how ever your heating system needs to be purged that means you must let all the air out of the system you usualy do this with a bleed valve on the return line

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

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Drain and refill of New Yorker forced hot water furnace


Draining is the easy part. Isolate the water feeder (shut off). Open hose bib @ boiler, & open the expansion tank valve to pull air in to allow more water out.
Refilling- let the water feeder fill -should be around 12 Psi, then go around the building to all the baseboards or radiators & open the bleeder key valves to let the air out until you get a steady stream of water. Most of the air should work its way to the expansion tank. Turn the boiler on & test your new pump.

Nov 12, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

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I have a vaillant eco tec pro boiler and the pressure guage is showing zero and boiler not working, is there a simple fis ?


Refill system with water to 1bar bleed rads refill again to 1 bar , there should be a filling loop to do this with.

Oct 23, 2012 | Grilling

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What is the best way to purge a hot water baseboard heating system?I seem to have a lot of air and system seems to be not flowing at all


The answer to your question depends on the design of your heating system. There are two common piping arrangements. The first is called a Venturi system. In this type of system you have a main loop that runs around the house with "scoop" tee's that force the water through each radiator/baseboard in the loop. With this type of system you must bleed each radiator individually. At the end of each radiator you should find a bleeder that will require either a flat head screwdriver or a square "key" (available at the big box hardware stores) to open the valve and bleed. This can be a somewhat time consuming process as to do it correctly you must go around the entire loop (preferably in the order of flow) 3 or 4 times to ensure you have moved all the air out of the system.

The next type of arrangement is know as a standard loop. This is where the water flows from one baseboard to the next, in a loop. (ie the baseboards are connected to each other, not just pulled off a common loop). In this type of a system you should find a "stop and purge" set up at the boiler. There should be a valve on the return close to the boiler, and just above that a boiler drain. (faucet type fixture). If you close this valve, connect a hose to the boiler drain and let the water flow into a bucket, you will be bleeding the hot water loop. If you have more than one zone, you will want to close all the valves at the return, and bleed each zone out indiviadually. After all zones have been bled, you can then re-open the valves.

As a note, you should see a water feeder located on the piping going into the boiler. (This device is connected to the cold water line that feeds all your household fixtures. ie sink, tub, etc) If you move the lever to the fast fill position it will allow water to flow into the boiler at a much faster rate, thus helping you push the air out easier. This is only really possible with the Standard Loop layout, because you need to monitor the boiler pressure anytime it is "fast filling". If you are "fast filling" you MUST ensure to release the lever prior to closing the boiler drains or you run the risk of causing the pressure relief valve to open, which can and will cause personal injury and property damage.

Hope this helps

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My boiler heating is working but hot water is not coming. i want to know how to set hot water 24 hours 7 days


As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.

Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.

Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.

Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..

I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.

Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.

My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.

Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.

Feb 05, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hot water not going, wanting to know how to turn it back on?


You have a real good description of your thermostat--
I wonder why you suspect the thermostat to be causing your 'No Hot Water' problem?

First of all, I have to be sure I understand your real problem--
When you say you want to 'turn the Hot Water back on', (It is 'Not going')
Do you mean you want a boiler (maybe in the basement?) -- or maybe a zone valve in a Hot Water, Baseboard heating system-- to be heating your house/ room/ apartment?

I would suppose, if you have the thermostat set higher than the room temperature, that it should be giving a 'call' to the boiler (or Baseboard Hot Water Heater..) to ignite a fire, and heat the waer, and then heat your room, or house.

So-- Could the problem be in the Device heating the Hot Water?

Please tell us more about your heating system-- what type of fuel, -- What happens when you lower the Thermostat, and then raise it-- What used to happen, and what does NOT now happen, etc.

Tell us more clues-- maybe we can help remotely like this-

Mack B

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The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.

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One zone not working; another is partly working


i would check my water pressure on boiler sounds like lack of pressure or air in system they can be related. if you have bleeder on baseboard try to bleed.

Feb 20, 2009 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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Have an oil fired boiler for baseboard heat and it also has a tankless heater for domestic hot water. No heat being called for only getting hot water for use. Boiler goes to 210 degrees before it knocks...


These boilers usually have multiple controls. The control that would take it out of the circuit at 210 degrees is a safety.

You should definitely have a professional take a look at this unit before you continue using it.

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I have a Honneywell Triple Aquasatat Relay insstalled on by boiler that heats both the baseboard and hot water for my residence. The relay is set so that the low kicks on at 180 degrees and the high kicks...


The temperatures you mention are reacting in a normal manor. The drop in temperature after it first starts comes from the water being brought back to the boiler from the system. The rise in temperature comes from the residual heat in the chamber after the burner shuts off. I would not push the limits on these settings. Water from the boiler is mainly meant as an assist . You did not answer if you have another hat water heater.

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