Question about Maytag MSD2436GR Side by Side Refrigerator

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Maytag Model MZD2766GEW iced coils

The refrigerator side stops cooling and evaporator coils in freezer are all frosted thick.

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  • roken Jul 23, 2008

    I have been reading posts that the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) board ($60) is the cause but I want to make sure before I buy one.

  • roken Jul 23, 2008

    OK - for continuity check, if the heater or sensor is good, the ohm meter will have a reading of some value instead of infinity right?

  • Dave B Sep 03, 2008

    Greetings: First off, great site. Secondly, Ive replaced the ADC, the heater element and temperature this that came with heater, litle quarter sized item with clips that snapped on copper piping from evap. coil. Anyhow, do I have to wait for the refrigerator to reach a certin cold/freeze temperature with icing on the coils to see if heat kicks on? Once I installed it all, I tried to start the refrig. into defrost by sliding freezer arm three times to right then leaving in the cold position, fans cycled off but heat didn't come on. Is that because there wasnt enough ice to melt and it wasnt cold enough or is there something else Im not doing. Many thanks...Code Blue 7

  • Anonymous Jan 13, 2009

    MAYTAG Defrost problem. Type MSD2436GR*. Bought adaptive defrost control baord, Part Number: 61005988. Does not look anything like old unit which has a small electrical coild visible. Not pin compatible either. Cannot find any info on the web. Anyone have experience with these different types of control?

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This sounds like a defrosting problem. There is a defrost timer, a heater element, and a therm-o- disk thing that shuts the heater off when the frost is melted. These are the things to check, but it's usually the heater that is burnt out.

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

  • B Carson Jul 23, 2008

    I'll be darned. They keep putting circuit boards like, everywhere! I guess a circuit board is cheaper to make than a mechanical defrost timer. The problem now, is that the brain is more likely to be fried than the heater, and harder to verify.



    With a mechanical timer, you look in the little window to see if the motor is still turning, then turn the knob until it gets to "defrost" and see if the heater starts. How is an average person going to check a "brain board?



    Here's an idea: Check the heater and the defrost terminator for continuity. If they are good, the only part left is the Adaptive Defrost Control Board.



    If it still uses a Klix-on brand temperature sensor, you have to check it while it is still below 50 degrees F. If there is no mechanical temperature sensor, the circuit board is responsible for deciding when to stop the defrost heater, and that will bring you back to a bad circuit board.



  • B Carson Jul 23, 2008

    If the heater is good, it will have a reading of maybe...a hundred ohms, probably less. Definitely not in the range of a thousand or ten thousand ohms. That would let about an amp or two into the heater. The temperature sensor will read zero to 3 or 4 ohms, but only if it is still frozen. It's whole purpose in life is to know when the frost is melted, then change to infinite ohms, and once it has clicked off, it has to get really cold to reset to "closed".



    If those two parts are good, you probably have a bad circuit board, but be sure to check and see if there are any more parts in the defrost circuit.

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Maytag plus model mzd2766gew freezer working refrigerator


Hi!!

Check
Temp. control knobs,

Small fan in freezer, it should start working after opening the freezer door for a couple of minutes. If it does not start, use a pen or pencil to turn the blades, if it kick in, replace motor.

Remove freezer back panel (where the little fan is) and check for iced evaporator coil, if so, unplug unit and use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt ice, make sure the air duct going to the fridge is clear.
Once this is done, restart unit

Keep me posted!! Rate this post!!!

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Maytag MZD2766GEW side by side refrigerator fridge not cooling


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Check to see if you have frost on the back panel of your freezer in your fridge. If you do your coil is frozen over and you'll have to defrost your freezer. I just did mine cause mine wasn't cooling properly on my fridge side.

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1 Answer

Frige not cooling


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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Check the ice maker. sometimes they get cracked a will leak water into the freezer compartment. Also check the ice maker fill tube for leaks or someone could have spilled something. Although this is tipical of a clogged drain. What happens is when the fridge go into derfost, it will melt all the frost that is on the evaporator, turning it into water. The water drains down to a trough under the evaporator and down a drain hole in the trough ( this trough is behind the evaporator cover ) Removing the melted frost from the freezer. If that drain is clogged, the water cannot leave the freezer. Then when the fridge starts back up ,it will freez the water that was not drained. After repeated defrosting the water will fill this trough and run off into the bottom of the freezer to be frozzen when the fridge starts to cool again.

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Check the evaporator fan motor located abocve teh cooling coils in the freezer side.

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