I recently burned out the speed or voltage regulator transistor. the numbers stamped on the transistor are'nt the actual part numbers. does any body know the part numbers so I can just replace the damaged part not the whole switch. Thanks.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It might not be anything to do with the pots. Speed problems can be caused by the circuit controlling the voltage. If there is a voltage regulator transistor or IC they can go faulty. The motor itself can also get dirt on it's contacts, or become so worn that they make erratic contact.
Replace its Horizontal output Transistor. If the base-emitter junction has a leak inside it, this type of fault will occur. Before replacing it, check the main DC voltage to LOT [Line Output Transformer]. It should come around 102VDC. If there is not this much voltage, check the electrolytic filter capacitor connected across thie supply line to main negative for open or value developed. Replace the same is good. Till there is low voltage found, check the retifier diode that rectifies this 102 volt DC. If all the above are OK and still you get a stamp like raster, check the heat of the Horizontal Output Transistor described above. if it overheats, LOT is defective and should be replaced with same type and number. OK.
A few thoughts on this. With the transistors, if these are a darlington style of transistor, it might show a short on a good transistor. The USB "transistor" is a voltage regulator, 12v to 5volts dc. With the inverter input, some inverters use a diode in the input to protect against connecting the inverter by reversed leads. This diode might be shorted and be causing your problem. If it comes to changing the transistors, it might be cheaper in the long run to buy a new inverter. The transistors might be problematic and might not be the only thing problematic. Experience here talking!
This is part of a Darlington Amplifier section of voltage regulation to the Final transistor it may be getting hot for various reasons one you may be taxing its resources by long key downs or you may have too much voltage going into the radio it should only be supplied with 13.8 Volts Maximum more than that (Volting the Radio) Will over work thhis transistor and eventually burn it out.
I have a PMP5000 that I had to resurect. I had to trace out the power supply to repair it.
I can give you hint: First, a small supply runs directely from the line and generates some of the small voltages. While this starts, the main power caps are charged through limiting resistors. The main switcher is brought online and if the power amps acheive balance, then a relay connects the speakers and shorts the limiting resistors.
This is what is in the 5000 and I suspect the 3000 is similar.
In my 5000, there was arcing at one side of the power amps. The board was burned and three power fets fried. Cancer of burned board had to be carved out and traces replaced by hardwiring.
In addition, the limiting resistors were blown open, both main switching transistors were blown and 4 small driver transistors (surface mounted) and several diodes AND a switching regulator chip (surface mounted).all fried/
Hint: When restarting the unit, put a 150 watt light in series with one of side of the power input to limit the current in case you did not get all the dead bodies out.
This is a class "D" amp which drives PCM waves into a filter which is then the audio output. It is much more efficient thaan a linear amp.
Locate and replace the voltage rectifier this is a voltage limiter than can go bad, trace the wire that comes out of the motor's shroud it should go to a small box that then has a wire that leads to the battery this small box will be the voltage regulator or rectifier they are similar devices, replacing this box should solve the problem however before replacing the light bulbs again after replacing the regulator or rectifier hook up a voltage regulator to the positive terminal of the battery while the tractor is running at a high rpm or engine speed, if the voltage reads higher than 14 volts the light bulbs will burn out again but this is a simplistic electrical system and the voltage rectifier or regulator restricts the voltage from exceeding 14 volts so replacing it should do the trick.