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Lol...the glow thing? Heh, its called a glow bar--I need the make/model number to help you more accurately--how old is the unit? If the glow bar is worn out, a classic symptom is that the center glows but not the rest of the heat material--when operating correctly, it's so bright you almost can't look at it. To troubleshoot one accurately, you will need a voltage/ohm clamp-on meter for reading amperage. NORMALLY, a working glow bar uses approx 4 amps of current, the gas valve senses this current draw and opens, letting in gas for ignition. You will have to have access to the wires going to the bar. Set the meter for amps and clamp it around one of the wires. Turn on the oven and check the current draw. If you are hesitant about doing any of this, call for service! The problem could also be a defective gas valve, broken wire, loose connection. If your stove has some years on it, and the glow bar has never been replaced, I'd start there--most of the glow bars I've encountered are somewhere around 100.00 give or take. THEY ARE DELICATE. Don't drop it, hit it, or touch the resistive glow bar material--it will break in a heartbeat(ask me how I know this!) I hope I helped you!
You have one of three things here
1. Dirty pilot, needs to be cleaned.
2. Bad thermocouple needs to be changed and pilot assembly cleaned.
3. Bad gas valve pilot solenoid call a repairman
It sounds like you have a hot surface ignition system (glow bar). If this is correct and you have gas coming to the top burners then the most likely suspect is the ignitor (glow bar).
I know this sounds strange, since it is glowing, but they get week and build up a high resistance as they age and do not allow enough current to flow to open the gas valve.
If you send me your model number I can look up the part number you need, the model number is on the tag usually on the cabinet front behind the lower drawer/door.
Contact your nearest Ruud DISTRIBUTOR, usually The Noland Company, and ask them if they could go into the historical documents and print out or send you the files for the wiring, spec's and parts breakdown. From the model number, that unit is rated for 3 tons of a/c. You can find a 3 ton coil that will fit in the space and get a straight cool condenser of 3 tons cooling and swap thermostats so it brings on the furnace and fan in heat and the condenser and fan in cooling. Or just add a simple White - Rogers model 444 for the cooling. Ron
You have a safety limit switch that is either bad or needs to be manually reset. Some have little buttons between the two wires going to the switch that you can push to reset. If not they are automatic switchs then one is bad. You have to do an ohms test to see if each switch is bad or good.
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