The AC fan outside has started to stop working. When i turn it off for 5 minutes or more and turn it back on it sarts back up or sometimes it does not turn but looks like it is trying. I can give it a nudge and the fans comes on. It still stops running after anything from 5 minutes to running fien for several days.
Now it is only runnig for about five minutes and the fan just stops running. Everything else stays on but I turn it off because I know it should not run without the fan running. Is this the capcitor causing this or my fan motor. I'm thinking of putting in a new capcitor. What do you think?!
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Re: Outside Fan Problems
TRY CHANGING THE CAP FIRST BUT MOST UNITS ONLY USE THE CAP TO START THE MOTOR NOT TO KEEP IT RUNNING SO IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A BAD CAP AND THATS WHY IT DOESNT START HOWEVER IF IT STOPS RUNNING WITHOUT THE THERMOSTAT TELLING IT TO (OR IN THE MIDDLE OF A CYCLE) THEN YOUR RUN WINDING IN YOUR MOTOR IS GOING BAD YOU CAN REPLACE THIS MOTOR PRETTY EASY AND IF YOU USE AN AFTER MARKET INSTEAD OF AN OEM MOTOR YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF ALOT OF MONEY. PS BE CAREFULL WHEN CHANGING YOUR CAP BECAUSE EVEN WITH THE POWER OFF IT CAN SHOCK YOU.AFTER SHUTTING THE POWER OFF USE AN INSULATED SCREWDRIVER AND TOUCH IT ACROSS THE POLES AT THE TOP OF THE CAP TO GROUND IT AND REMOVE POTENTIAL ENERGY.
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The bearings are bad in the motor and after the fan runs enough it eventually gets hot, making the bearing screech and the fan locks up. Need to replace motor again. See if it has a warranty. The reason it gets hot is because the fan is what removes the heat from the coil and if the fan isn't running there is nothing to cool it off so to speak.
Hello Sounds like the condensor fan motor is going bad.If the fan stops turning or is not turning at full speed, the compressor can not give off heat to the condensor.Which will cause it to shut down on high heat.
So i would start with a new fan motor.Your local heating and cooling supply house should have these in stock.
This means that the condenser fan motor (outside unit) failed, this caused to build hi pressure and either activated a safety valve to release the extra pressure or blew a line and R22 Refrigerant escaped from system.
The fix is to replace motor fan and capacitor find the leak and refill system with R22 Refrigerant Gas. It is safe to turn on the Fan Only mode on the Thermostat until a HVAC Tech arrives. To perform this job parts and labor included will cost: about $300 -.$400. Look on the Yellow Pages for a Tech in your neighborhood.
Check outside unit if unit and compressor are running feel the large line to see if it is cold. If compressor is running and line is not cold possible charge problems. You may have a capacitor problem outside. they go out quite often. You can change this yourself, Open up outside unit and the cap is the silver bullet with terminals out the top. Bad cap can cause compressor to not operate and also the fan. You need to clean the coil inside or at leat check the coil to see if it is clean. You can clean theis with a toilet brush do not go against the coil bit brush with the fins. You may need to call a service tech but try these options first. russ
Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.
These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.
Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.
Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.
You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.
Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.
Try turning the power off at the fuse box, waiting 5 minutes turning the system back on and spray some water on the vents on the side of the outside condenser. If the fan isnt spining get a twig and spin it in an anti-clockwise direction after 1 or 2 spins it should start spinning on its own. continue to hose the vents with water for another 5 minutes. Its important to have the fan spinning as it extracts the heat from the condenser box.
if you turn on just the fan at thermostat does it run. if not then the fan motor / belt / relay / start capacitor is the issue. if your not familiar with ac then you will need help to diagnose the air handler. belt is easy. just take a look by opening the side access panel