Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
your bearings are going bad. you need to replace the bearing on the top of the brake packag and might have to replace the tub bearing also
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
SOME OF THESE MACHINES HAVE TWO PRESSURE SWITCHES IN THEM, ONE FOR THE MAIN WASH WATER LEVEL AND ONE FOR THE RINSE WATER LEVEL. CHECK FOR A PLUGGED AIR PRESSURE HOSE FIRST AND THEN CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCHES.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
Clean out coin collector thoroughly. Replace drain pump if necessary. Water will drain if you can place drain hose on floor and let water siphon out.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
If the timer and lid switches are funtional and the machine is filling and shutting off correctly that only leaves the motor. Have the motor tested or replace it. Even though the timer is running it is possible that it is still at fault. If you have access to another timer try switching them to make sure it isn't the timer. This does sound like a faulty motor and I would start with that assumption.
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
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