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is it the auto film load feature on this camera doing this ??? it maybe the type of film u use , most auto loads are not to forgiving on the different types of film , I had this problem as I still use a film camera a lot for infrared photos (digitals too expensive ) and have found that its real picky on whos film I use to weather it works or not , as on some brands of film it just goes on and on and never stops , the only way I can save it from being ruined is to tell it to rewind , it then sucks all the film back into holder and I try it again ,sometimes works sometimes no
Solution: Repair or replace auto-rewind system. Cause: The built in auto-rewind system that supposed to work when film is finished but because it is faulty it receives wrong signal when film is lloaded. So the camera thinks the film is at the end of the roll. Possible cost: $65-$75
There is a crank located on the top of the camera. Some Lomo's Ive seen have it located on the left, but it will always be on the side of the camera where you placed the film. Many cameras will also have arrows indicating what direction to turn it in order to wind the film back in. If there are no arrows, place your ruined roll of film (or a new roll of film) into the camera, and try winding it with the back open (if you're using a new roll of film, don't roll it all the way in, or you'll waste another roll).
If there is no crank, or it is broken, you can always unload your camera in perfect darkness (no red lights), and wind it back into the canister by hand.
If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.
First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).
Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.
A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.
OK, so we know that the film transport motor is not dead. That's a good thing. When I have that problem with my HTsi or XTsi, I try several ways of placing the film leader on the take-up roller. Also be sure that the take-up roller is clean or it will not grab the film. I also have a TEST roll. I put it in cameras to be sure its grabbing film. RARE, but it can happen...film can refuse to come out of the canister. Take it into a room tonight, turn out the light so you do not expose the film, and try pulling the film out. Use the knob to rewind it before you turn on the light. Meantime, try another film roll NOT likely, but possible - Film advance motor running but take-up spool not turning. This means a trip to repair shop. Since the QTsi/STsi/HTsi and XTsi are not that expensive on Ebay these days, get one as a parts donor/ spare camera. The other models will give you more choices. HTsi and XTsi have 3 AF sensors.
Well it is not a big problem. Visit a photo studio and tell then to for leaf out of the roll and load it in your camera. You can't take out that starting point of the roll at home. Because you don't have the small machine. After that put the roll back in your camera.
Now i am going to say most important things.
click few (4-5) snaps using a cover in front of your lens. Then click normally for taking photos.
Return the camera to the company and see if you can get a return or at least an even exchange. Get another roll of film and shoot casual stuff. Never test a camera, film or digital for the first time at any mission critical event like an anniversary or wedding. It can lead to potential disaster. Shoot the roll with the new camera if you got it exchanged and then have it developed at Walmart or wherever is cheapest. If it works, keep it. If not, don't. BTW, if you are ever going to have to shoot a wedding or anything ever again with a film point and shoot and don't want hassles, just get disposable cameras. They are designed to work out of the box with no problems. They are of higher quality then most people think for image qulity.
Polaroid used to make good instant cameras, but their 35mm film and digital stuff I wouldn't trust as much. It's not the real Polaroid which can makes only instant film gear. . It's another company using the Polaroid brand name to try and make otherwise generic stuff look better then it is. Their digital cameras have a poor reputation. I don't think their non instant film cameras are much better. Good luck.
Unlike other cameras that start at frame #1 after loading and count up as the film is used, the N55 advance the film to the last frame during the loading process. When loading is complete, the frame counter stops at the number of available frames on the roll (usually 24 or 36) and counts down as photos are taken. I know it sounds backwards but it actually makes a lot of sense to engineer it this way.
After the last photo is taken (displays 1 on the counter), the camera automatically winds the end of the film into the cassette and the counter shows a blinking E.
I am assuming that that is what is being displayed and not a blinking F. it it is an F, perhaps there is a problem with the LCD display? If so, it probably isn't worth having it repaired.