High shutter speed causes band of over exposed image
I have just brought a second 1ds mark 2 from ebay and am noticing that any image taken where the shutter speed is fast a soft edge band appears at the top, basically brighter and over exsposed.
To me this would be a shutter problem, but im not sure.
My main concern is if i should get the camera back and get my 2k back or simply fix this. Do 1ds mark cameras last long, its 3 years old, apart form the shutter box is there anything else likely to go wrong with age?
Im a pro photographer and need a reliable 2nd camera.
Sincerely appreciate your willingness and time to help.
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Re: High shutter speed causes band of over exposed image
I would suggest to check the lens inside. there might be some kind of small item inserted inside. check if this happens with no zoom and full zoom. if the problem persists, I would suggest to first have it checked with another lens just to make sure it's a lens matter. Then decide if you need to send it back or buy a new lens.
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Are these pictures being taken with flash ? If so, it could be that you are using too high a shutter speed for the entire frame to be exposed. Most cameras have a flash setting, usually around 1/150 to 1/200 second, and if you use a faster speed the shutter closes before the frame is fully exposed.
When using a zoom or telephoto lens, it's just like using a telescope - a little bit of movement in your hand makes the image jump around a lot. If you take a picture under these conditions it is often blurry. There are 5 things to improve the image quality:
1. Use the fastest shutter speed possible.
2. Since a fast shutter speed captures less light, you also need a wider aperture (that's the size of adjustable curtain in the lens known as the f-stop, a smaller f-stop number indicates a wider aperture). The wider aperture allows more light in.
3. Use a tripod. This works for telescopes and cameras.
4. Bright available light. On a sunny day, there is lots of light available, so you can use a fast shutter speed and still get enough light.
5a. On film cameras use "fast film". This film is more sensitive, meaning it requires less light so you can use a faster shutter speed.
5b. On some digital cameras there is Image Stabilization. The image is electronically stabilized - this is like using a tripod to hold the image still, while allowing the camera to move around a little bit.
I hope you found this helpful
Above 1/30th of a second you will not hear any difference due to the way that an SLR camera twin curtain shutter operates.
There are just two tests possible: take the camera to a repair shop for shutter speed testing or just assess the exposures taken when using transparency (slide) film. Assessing the exposure with regular negative film isn't much use as the photo printing machinery can compensate for under or over exposed images.
Yes. If you were able to set a faster shutter speed, then you would not expose the entire frame and would have the shadow of either the first or second shutter curtain (or both) partially masking the frame.
At higher speeds, the shutter is never fully exposed: before the first shutter curtain has finished travelling across the frame, the second one has stated it's journey. All SLR's have this issue and on some older models you could only use a maximum 1/60th of a second.
In practice though, in dark conditions the "slow" shutter speed does not affect exposure as the true exposure will be determined by how much light the flash puts out, and it puts this light out in as little as 50 microseconds (50 millionths of a second) for a modern electronic flash bulb.
Faster shutter speeds can be used successfully, but only with flashes which operate in high speed mode. What they do is to make the flash burst seem longer by rapidly firing the flash bulb many times. This trick can ensure that there is sufficient light to expose the frame at the highest shutter speeds. Shutters which operate at, say, 1/4000 may seem fast, but compared to the speed at which a single electronic flash burst operates, it's an eternity.
There isn't enough light for that scene. 1/13th of a second is the fastest at that ISO (automatically set by camera in Basic Mode) and Aperture (auto set by camera too, in Basic Mode) that the camera can handle to provide a reasonably exposed image. Try using Tv on the Mode Dial, set a higher ISO (trade off is image noise) of around 800-1600 or even 3200 if available on your camera. Set shutter speed at 200-1000 (1/200th to 1/1000th of a second) and see if it freezes your subject. An external flashlight with hi-sync mode would help in this situation if the subject is not too far away.
HI I AM SAGHA A CAMERA REPAIRER FROM MUMBAI, I THINK THE SYMPTOMS YOU HAVE OBSERVED ARE THE SYMBOL OF MINUTENESS & PERFECTION OF YOUR WORK.ANY WAY IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM OF SHUTTER BLADES OF 1DM2,IDSM2,IN WHICH ONE LEAF OF THE 2ND SHUTTER BLADE GETS DAMAGED WHICH GIVES WHITE BAND OF BRIGHTER LIGHT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT(NOT OF LINEAR SIZE). I THINK IT WILL BE LITTLE COSTLIER TO GET THE WHOLE SHUTTER BLADES REPLACED.IF U WOULD HAVE BEEN IN INDIA I WOULD HAVE GIVEN U SOME CHEAPER OPTION(LIKE REPLACING ONLY DEFECTIVE BLADE ONLY)WHICH NO SERVICE CENTRE WILL GIVE YOU.ANYWAY GET IT REPLACED FROM REPUTED EXPERIENCED REPAIRER & CHECK SLOWEST & FASTEST SPEEDS AFTER REPAIRING THE CAMERA.REPLY ME WITHOUT FAIL THANK YOU & ALL THE BEST.
Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.
"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.
It's a shutter problem--it's not the amount of light per se that causes it, it's the shutter speed. This issue often only shows up at a few shutter speeds.
My 1dsII does it around 1/125, although not nearly as badly. Apparently the shutter is bouncing or hanging up at the end of its travel. Sorry, it's either send it to Canon or learn to live with it.