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How do I remove cover from fridge temperature control panel?

I need to replace the thermostat on my fridge but can't see how to remove the cover off the fridge temperature control panel (the thermostat is housed behind it). There are no visible screws and I'm a little unsure as to whether to try removing (pulling off) the temperature control dial to see if there's a screw behind it as I'm not sure whether it's supposed to come off. Can anyone help?

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Lever off the thermostat knob and you will often find fixing screws behind. also, fixing screws are often hidden behind little blanking plugs which lever out to expose the screw head

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

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1 Answer

The temperature controls on fridge and freezer just keeps on running. Freezer goes to minus 20 degrees F


Most likely it's the thermostat. Not necessarily the controls but the thermocouple itself.
Here are 2 videos, the first one is about the opposite problem where the system won't cool. The "wire" sticking out of the thermostat he's removed is the thermocouple, sometimes you can replace that by itself.
The second covers a more sophisticated system and both possible failures.


Nov 03, 2016 | Refrigerators

6 Answers

Fridge working intermittently.


i guess there is some problem with the thermostat

get it changed.....

Oct 08, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge is running but not getting cold. Line underneath feels very cold but air coming in fridge is not cold. Fan under the freezer and fridge is running.


Hi

If refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to a bad defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Jul 17, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Magic Chef fridge. For a while now, food is "warm" one day and then it is frozen the next. The same situation is occuring in the freezer where ice cubes trays have thawed and are...


I would suspect a problem in the defrost circuit. I would find the model number on the
inside left of the bottom compartment. Usually when this occurs I replace the defrost
timer as well as the defrost termination thermostat. It sounds as if the defrost circuit
is remaining energized. The parts total should be around 40 dollars. The timer is located
under the cold control cover and the defrost termination thermostat is attached to a
tube in the freezer compartment behind the back panel. These are easy items to replace, the
most difficult part is removing the control panel and freezer cover (each usually has 4 screws)
and a couple holding the tray and vent stack in place.
Make sure to unplug fridge before any work is performed.

Apr 25, 2011 | Magic Chef Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge freezer - freezer working but fridge not. red warm light is on


Hello,

If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Mar 30, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

MY intergrated NEFF fridge is not getting cold. I have power (as the light comes on) but it does not seem to be chilling-what could this be?


Hello,

If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Mar 30, 2011 | Neff Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frezer works but fridge does not get cold


Hello,

If refrigerator is not cooling properly, it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Mar 22, 2011 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Temperature not working


Hello,

Before replacing the refrigerator's temperature controls, you should do some basic troubleshooting to make sure the problem stems from a defective control and not some other problem. The most obvious thing to check is that the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power from the outlet. If it is running, but not cooling, it could be due to dirty condenser coils or a defective door seal. Once the coils are clean and the door seal has been checked, you can be pretty confident that the problem is the temperature controls.
There are usually two control knobs, one that controls the temperature of the freezer and one that controls the refrigerator. Although they appear to be independent controls, it is important to understand that the cold air comes solely from the freezer area into the refrigerator compartment. The freezer control determines how much cold air the condenser produces while the refrigerator control adjusts the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If there is no cold air on either side, it is probably the freezer control that is at fault. The procedure to replace the control switch is the same for the refrigerator control and for the freezer control.


Even though we have gone through this troubleshooting, it is still a good idea to test the control mechanism before replacing it. You will need a multitester and possibly needle-nose pliers and a screwdriver for the testing. First, unplug the refrigerator so you don't get shocked. Then, remove the temperature control's dial and/or housing. The dial will just pull straight off, but the housing may have screws holding it in place. After removing the housing, just let it hang by its wires. There should be two wires attached to the control. Label them before disconnecting so it is easier to put back together. Remove the wires by pulling on the slip-on connectors, not the wires themselves. Needle-nose pliers may be needed to remove these connectors from the terminals, especially if the refrigerator is old.
Set the ohms setting on your multitester to X1 and attach one probe to each terminal. Turn the temperature control to off or to the warmest setting if there is no off position. The multitester should give you a reading of infinity if the control is on off and a reading of near infinity if there is no off position. Then turn the control to the coldest setting and retest. Now, the multitester should give you a reading of zero. If both of these tests are not passed, the control needs to be replaced.

You already have the dial part of the temperature control disassembled, but there is also a temperature probe attached to it. Remove all fasteners holding on the existing probe and take note of the path of the probe. Install the new temperature probe along the same path as the original. Do not bend at a sharp angle and try to avoid bending more than necessary so the probe does not get damaged. Attach the refrigerator's wires to the new temperature, replacing the connectors if corroded. Replace the switch and any necessary housing screws you removed earlier. Plug in the refrigerator and set the temperature control to the midpoint setting. The refrigerator should start cooling down within one to two hours.
Note that,

The thermostat – that part of your fridge that controls the temperature – may be one of the smallest parts, but of course it is also one of the most important. The thermostat can not easily be repaired – generally speaking, if you have a faulty thermostat you will almost certainly need to have it replaced.
There are several warning signs that the temperature inside the fridge is not what it should be. An obvious sign that the temperature is too cold inside the fridge is when liquids – milk, soda or orange juice, for example – are partly frozen. Similarly, if your freezer or ice compartment is kept too cold, ice will form on the outside of packets of food that are stored in there. The bottom part of your fridge is the coldest part – you can always try putting produce and other sensitive food items on a higher shelf. Ice or frost forming on the inside walls of the fridge also indicates a problem. Food that spoils before it should is also a sign that your fridge may be too warm.


Before you spend the time and money replacing the thermostat, here are some tests you can perform to see if it is the thermostat that is faulty, or some other problem. If you feel the temperature in your fridge is not what it should be, firstly try the obvious: make sure the temperature control is set correctly. The ideal temperature for the fridge should be between 38 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and for the freezer temperature between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature setting may have arbitrary numbers on it, (for example 1 through 9, warmest to coldest) and simply moving this control to the next setting up or down may solve the problem. Depending on the age and make of your fridge, there may be separate temperature controls for both the fridge and freezer. Check the manufacturer’s manual that comes with your fridge to find the suggested setting for the temperature control – or call the manufacturer if you don’t have the manual. Most companies have a toll free help or troubleshooting number to call.
If you are technically minded, it is possible to easily unscrew the temperature dial, and then remove the actual temperature control box, taking care not to pull any wires away. You can then test the temperature control using a hand held device called a continuity tester probe. Set the control dial to its coldest setting, and then attach the probe. If it lights up, then this indicates a closed circuit with no obvious problem in the electrical system. Make sure your fridge is unplugged while you do this.

If your fridge temperature is too low and you cannot make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, it may be one of several other parts that are causing the problem – there may be a leak in the refrigerant system, a defective air damper, or a situation known as cold air migration, which occurs in ‘side by side’ fridge/freezer models. Poor cooling can also be caused by frost building up on the evaporator coils – a vital part of the fridge that you cannot easily see without removing a panel on the inside of the freezer. A sure sign of this is if you see slight icing or frost build up on the inside walls, or floor of the fridge. If your fridge is self-defrosting, it may be a faulty defrosting mechanism that is causing the ice or frost build-up. One way to test this, although it is not particularly convenient, is to take everything out of the fridge, leave the door open and turn the thermostat off for at least 24 hours. Once the ice build up has disappeared, put the thermostat back on its normal setting – if the fridge then cools properly, there is probably a problem with some part of the defrosting system.

There are other ways to test that the thermostat is keeping your fridge as cool as it should. A good method of accurately checking the temp over a period of time is to leave a glass of water in the fridge for 24 hours; or a glass of cooking oil in the freezer. You can also use a thermometer – a meat thermometer is good for this. Also check the door seal and the door catch on your fridge – something as simple as the door not closing fully can cause a slight temperature increase inside the fridge. And leaving the refrigerator door open for long periods of time can also cause the inside temperature to warm up.

If you are lucky though, you may never need to repair your fridge – the average lifespan of a refrigerator is about 15 years, making them one of the most reliable and longest lasting of household appliances.



Good luck in solving the problem......

Aug 15, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

Freezer works fine but fridge has lost its temperature.


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp

..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Jul 02, 2009 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

My fridge freezer made by samsung is on the blink


These fridges have an evaporator fan motor on both sides - the freezer and fridge side. The freezer can maintain it's temperature because that fan is working fine. I had the same problem, and replaced the evaporator fan motor on fridge side, and it solved the problem. Also, if your fan motor is not working well, or stops working, the evaporator is prone to ice build up, and will prevent proper cooling. You may want to open up panel on fridge side and see if that's the case. Taking a blow dryer to the evaporator and surrounding area (while fridge is off), or letting it sit for a few hours might solve the problem. Ultimately though, it appears as if these fan motors are prone to failure, and need to be replaced.

Dec 19, 2008 | Samsung 24.8 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

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