Eb20b heater temp goes down from 120 degrees to 90. 240v at sequencer and both heating elements and limit switches, testing from ground to wiring on those. when i take cover off of fan motor enclosure heater goes to 135 degrees and stays there until the thermostat is turned down. replacedthe sequencer. What next. The schematic shows a Blend Air Control Box, but wiring goes to capacitor and motor. I find no Blend Air Control Box.

One leg is hot all the time. The second leg switches through a contactor or sequencer & goes through a high temp limit. Each element is wire this way.

Reset trips when upper thermostat senses high heat event over 150 degrees F.

High heat can be caused by:

1) Element shorted to ground through center of element. Thermostats turn off one leg of 240V circuit. Elements always have 120V available. If element is shorted to ground, it might not trip breaker, and continues to heat using one leg of 240 with circuit completed to ground wire.
Test elements:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

2) Insulation and cover not put back over thermostat. Thermostat exposed to cool air, misreads temperature causing element to continue heating.

3) Thermostat sticking in ON position. I usually replace both thermostats at same time to save another trip.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

4) Shorted wire or loose wire at or near upper thermostat. Check that screws are very tight against copper wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

5) One suspect can be eliminated is 240Volt power to heater.
Your heater circuit is good.

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sometimes the new parts just arn't that good.try insulating switch from surface.I have used foil

The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Sounds like the terminal block shorted. This was caused most likely by a broken element. It's located in a pan on the inside back panel of the dryer. It's a coil type, meaning that it comes in a bag and you have to stretch it out and string it. It's not hard and the bag has the instructions. It will even tell you how far to stretch the coil before you string it. The thermal limiter fuse is a normally closed switch that opens on the rise. When the heat at the element gets 220 degrees, it cuts power to elements. There is also a thermostat that is located on the vent housing that is the same kind but looks a little different, when the temp reaches 260 degrees inside the vent, it opens.
If it were mine, I would replace the element and the terminal block. I would also check the thermostat and the thermal limiter fuse and see if they have continuity. If so, it's ready to go and should be fine for years in theory. Good luck

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

try to google it at best but chances are you will need to contact intertherm directly and order one. what is wrong with your unit?

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

You should have 24vac at the 2 lowest terminals 1 on each side of the sequencer with a call for heat.( that is the control voltage,the terminals are usually double spade brass in color) If you have the control voltage after about 30-120 seconds the sequencer should close.The voltage reading across the sequencer should go from 230vac to 0 volts when the sequencer closes.If you have control voltage and 230vac on each side of the sequencer then the sequencer is bad.It is beast if replacing the sequencer replace by moving 1 wire at a time from the old to the new.And ALWAYS make sure power is truned off.