I read your post on the XION supply. I just reinstalled some innards into a new XION case. When I hook up the ps to the MB and flip the PS switch outside the case, I get a momentary light-up on the case fan, and then it turns off. When I try a load without hooking up the ps to the MB first, nothing happens. Is there something I'm missing?!? Why would it turn on and then off when hooked to the MB, but then not turn on at all when I try a simple load?
To test the PSU without a MB plugged in, you have to short the green wire on the 20/24 pin connector to a ground or black wire on the PSU, and that will turn it on. I have the problem where it turns on and off about 15 times before staying on and powering up.
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Re: XION Case and Supply
Try unplugging, then plugging back in the 20/24pin power connector. When you plug in the power connector, make sure the power supply is OFF and the switch in the back is OFF and nothing is plugged into the computer.
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Follow these steps : 1. Power on your computer and place one hand behind the power supply's fan on the back side of the computer case. Check to see if there is any air being blown by the fan and listen for any fan noise, which will both indicate the power supply is still receiving electricity. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the power cable from the current wall outlet it is plugged into and connect it to a different outlet to make sure the outlet isn't the cause of the problem. Replace the power cable entirely with a new one and plug it into the original wall outlet to find out if the cable was defective.
3. Power on the computer and check to see if the problem still persists. Turn the computer off if you are still having problems and disconnect all of the cords from the back of the case. Set the computer down onto its right side on any nearby stable work surface. Unlock the left side panel from the computer by removing the two case screws on the back end of the case. Push down on the panel slightly and then slide it away from you to remove it from the case.
4. Make a visual inspection of the power supply, which will be located at the top left side of the case. Check to see if the power supply has sustained any obvious physical damage such as from spilled liquid or possibly falling out of the drive bay. Replace the power supply if there is any obvious physical damage.
5. Check the connections of the IDE cable that run from the motherboard to the power supply. Make sure the connection is secure at both sides and hasn't slipped out. Replace the IDE cable with a new one if it has any obvious physical damage.
6. Unplug the cord that runs from the power supply to the hard drive. Turn on your digital multimeter and set it to the "DC" setting. Attach the power cable back into the power supply with the case still open. Press the computer's power button.
7. A Digital MultimeterInsert the multimeter's black probe into the black wire of the power supply cable you removed from the hard drive. Take the multimeter's red probe and plug it into the yellow wire of the power supply cable. Check the reading that appears on the digital multimeter's screen.
8. Replace the power supply if the reading on the multimeter is lower than 11 or higher than 13.
Choosing a good power supply depends on a few factors; The amount of power your PC and all it's internal/external connected devices need. The way your PC-casing is built (for airflow).
First it's important to know if you have added any internal/external hardware to the pc since you bought it (hard drives, video cards, usb devices, memory etc.). If this is the case then you definitely need to upgrade, but reading the second and third factors I mention below will shed more light on that.
Second (if possible) you need to check the voltage levels on your current Power Supply via you PC's BIOS or by using a program like Speedfan. If any of the voltages show a reading below what they are supposed to deliver, it means you need a higher amperage on your next Power Supply for that particular line. There are three lines to check (12+, 3.3+ and Core voltage). Usually Power Supplies have a Table with voltages on their sides and on the package. Refer to the one of current Power Supply to see how much amperage your new Power Supply needs to have.
Third it's important your new Power Supply has the fans positioned in the right spots. If your always make sure the air is blowing out of the casing. If it has a small fan on the back, it most likely blows outwards (sucking air from inside your PC case though the Power Supply). If it has a big fan on the top side, it's most likely designed to blow out of the top of the PC case. If it has a fan on the bottom side, it's most likely designed to **** air from the inside the PC casing and blow it through the Power Supply. However it may also be designed to blow out the side of smaller PC casings, in which case the Power Supply is position in front of the motherboard.
Fourth is kind of the-rule-of-the-thumb, always (if possible) buy a brand Power Supply. Generic/Standard Power Supplies do not nearly achieve as much power/lifetime/quality as a brand Power Supply. I recommend a Cooler Master, for their silent but powerful coolers.
Fifth but definitely not a lesser one. Check what connections your PC need. Count the amount of pins connected to your motherboard (usually either 20 or 20+4 pins). Most modern Power Supplies cover most of the connection types. But you don't want to come home with a new Power Supply that isn't going to support your old IDE drives or something.
You could help us help you by providing us with a list of Hardware your computer contains. I can search your PC type and read the specifications, but they don't show what you put extra in/on your machine.
Seems reasonable. Take the motherboard out of the case, first to see if it will work outside of the case. Sometimes boards short to the ground due to a screw or other metal getting between them and the case. Try to run it with as little hardware hooked up as possible. You don't even need a hard drive to post the BIOS.
IT CAN BE MANY THINGS 1 UNPLUG SYSTEM FROM THE WALL, 2 REMOVE THE MEMORY AND REINSTALL THEM, 2
CHECK ALL CONNECTION INSIDE THE COMPUTER CASE AND THE OUTSIDE TO, 3 TO REMOVE A POWER SUPPLY IS 4 PHILLIPS SCREWS POWER CONNECTIONINSIDE CASE, REMOVE THE POWER FROM ALL OTHER DEVICE CAREFULLY AND TAKE IT TO YOUR NEARST COMPUTER STORE, SAVE YOUR RECIEPTS IN CASE IT IS NOT THE POWER SUPPLY PROBLEM, RETURN IT AND GET YOUR MONEY BACK.
POWER SUPPLYS SHOULD NOT COST MUCH, IFYOU ARE STRAPED FOR MONEY GO TO GOOD WILL AND HAVE THE FIRE UP ONE OF THE SYSTEM THEY HAVE THEY MAY EVEN HAVE A NEW ENPTY TOWER CASE LAYING AROUND FOR 30.00 DOLLARS.
Hi the power supply is secured to the cabinet by 4 screws on the rear of the cab if not open the side cover 1 or 2 screws could be holding it in place with metal clamps or locks which can be released by sliding it out .
You sound like you know what you're doing, so I expect you've made all the motherboard connections(Same as the original PS).
Does the switch work when you test it?
If so, it sounds like the PS is DOA.
I've had bad luck with cheap power supplies.
OK most PSU's are the same.. by that I mean as long as the output & connections match, then the size & shape don't really matter.
On the PSU somewhere will be a "Wattage" rating say 250Watt... whatever.. simply obtain a standard (Usually 350Watt) PC Power Supply Unit (PSU)of the SAME or HIGHER Wattage rating & also ensuring the Mating Connector onto the MotherBoard is the same... ya be all good..