I have Model RF1101 Router mounted in a router table and I'm trying to cut a dovetail groove in a workpiece. I first use a straight bit with 2 flutes to hog out a 1/4" deep groove. For some reason the straight bit is withdrawing from the chuck when I make my pass causing the depth of the groove to end up 1/4 deeper than I started. The length of the cut is 9". I have cleaned the chuck and am sure I have tightened the chuck appropriately. The unit has less than 25 hrs. of use.

What type of wood and how fast you are feeding it has a lot to do with it.

Use a guide to your router from "riding up the board".

It controls the depth of cut. Loosen the clamp at the back of the router and turn the motor until the bit touches the workpiece. Tighten the clamp. Turn the wheel until the line on the motor housing is at zero on the wheel. Loosen the clamp and turn the motor to the depth (on the wheel) of your desired cut,ie 1/4 ". retighten the clamp and your cut is set for 1/4th inch.

I have a Craftsman professional router table, laminated model 26608. I can not find a parts manual for this item. I tried a number of way to find parts for this item. I believe this was made by Bosch. I can not purchase a Router table mounting plate for this item. it measures 7" x 8". with a center hole of 3". also 3" insert rings. Bosch and Sears makes items for a professional router but the center hole is 3 3/4 inches and the plate is a lot larger in width and length. I have gone to Bosch on the internet and came up with a model RA1171. This is a model like the one I purchased; however, they have changed the size of the adapter plate and the center rings. the model no. they show is 29LCN1428.

If you are doing freehand routing, you need bits with a ball bearing on the end to track the un-machined edge of the work. Other complicated designs require some form of 'jig' or fence that controls the position of the bit. If you didn't receive an owner's manual with your bequest, it would be helpful to find some good how-to manuals at specialty wood-working stores which also give you ideas for projects, making jigs, using a router table, and other useful information. Use a decent respirator and safety glasses when routing as they produce prodigious amounts of fine wood dust. Don't smoke while using the router as the dust in the air is quite explosive if ignited. The pictures in these manuals show how the router is mounted in the table and how to use it properly. The bits that you use must be very sharp to make clean cuts without also making smoke. Hope you find this useful!

I searched for an answer to your question, but found no good answers. It may be that you can only use certain routers with this table.

One way to do it is to use a table saw, with the blade cranked over at an angle, feeding the piece through upright, with the flat against the fence instead of down against the table surface. You can make a very shallow angled cut in this way, and it's accuracy is improved through the use of fingerboards to hold the work against the fence.
If you have a router table with a fence on it, you can set up a panel raising bit and do a fairly shallow cut on the edge of your threshold, but probably not as deep (from the edge) as on a table saw. (Probably only about 1 1/2" vs up to 3").
The most laborious method, but fairly simple, is to make some kind of sled-like jig for the router that will span the width x2 of your board, then mount the board on a large flat surface at the desired angle, and use a flat bottomed bit to essentially plane the board by hand, sliding the router back and forth from end to end, moving it over to make the next pass, and so forth. Slow & dusty, but effective nevertheless.
Here's a link I found with pictures of something like what I was thinking of. Router planing jig
Whichever method you choose, expect to have to dress the cuts with a belt sander to smooth out the machine marks.
If what you're after is a simple 45 degree chamfer, just buy a chamfer bit with a bearing, and if you wish to take more cut than the thickness of your workpiece allows, screw another board flush to the edge underneath to guide the bearing against while you make your cut.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!

This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.

Those with larger bit shanks can hold larger blades. For large joinery cuts, buy a router with a large bit-shank diameter.