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Re: stuck film door
Directions on how to open your cameras film door should be in your camera manual. If you don't have your camera manual you should be able to get one from the manufacturer by emailing them at email@example.com. I hope this helps!
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Completely white photos on an Instax, or any instant camera means the film has been exposed somehow. Check to be sure the film door is completely closed, and latched properly. If it is, it's possible, though unlikely, that your camera's shutter is stuck open. It'd be easy to check, simply look at the front of your camera into the lens, and see if you see any mechanical bits, now take a picture and see if you see any of them move - movement means working, no movement means not. If the entire camera back opens (I'm not sure if it does) you can also open it and do the same thing, looking to see if you see light through the camera when you're looking through the lens but not taking a picture - if you do the lense is stuck open. This, however, would require removing and wasting whatever film is remaining in it right now.
Essentially, you probably don't as APS film is no longer made and is getting difficult to get processed if you do get some old stock.
But like on all APS cameras, there's a lock on one end of the camera and usually you turn it to open a small door on the bottom of the camera. The APS film cassette gets pushed into the compartment and when you close the door and the camera *should* wind the film ready for shooting and lock the door so that you cannot open it until the film is rewound. The cameras are entirely battery dependent and many used CR2 lithium batteries which are disproportionately expensive and hard to find except from online suppliers.
Unfortunately APS was a badly engineered system from the start, so the cameras didn't tend to last long before suffering major faults. You may wish to bear that fact in mind as those faults won't show until you load a film and any film you do find will likely cost more than you can buy another APS camera for. They're widely available for free or for about a £ or two from almost any charity shop (not from the one I work in though as I always put them straight into the recycling bin as they're a liability).
In short, no. The camera must be dismantled. If the film hasn't rewound, then if you wish to save your images you must dismantle it in total darkness: not easy! As the camera is usually a write-off anyway I just slowly crush APS cameras in a vice in my darkroom until they pop open enough for me to extract the film.
If the camera is faulty and not just in need of a fresh battery, then after recovering your film just chuck the camera away; it's not repairable and it definitely isn't collectable. APS was a poorly-engineered system from the start and 35mm has outlasted it largely because APS cameras were generally highly fault-prone and unreliable. It also didn't help that the image quality was worse than on 35mm because of the smaller negatives.
It's not all bad news: 35mm cameras of most types are now mostly near worthless and so commonly available for free on FreeCycle and Freegle as are APS cameras if you really want another.
Hopefully you will just need a fresh battery, but either way I hope that you manage to recover your film successfully.
This question has been answered repeatedly.
Pentax error codes are mostly for camera repair technician
diagnosis and most of the time mean the camera is broken and
needs professional servicing.
Some Pentax Error Codes:
E: "E" often indicates a film jam. This code can
appear when the film is inserted incorrectly, when the batteries
are changed in the middle of a roll of film, if you are using
defective film, etc. If "E" appears in your camera's
information display, try to rewind your film manually (see your
user's guide for instructions on how to activate your mid-roll
rewind function), and try a different roll. If this problem keeps
occurring, you might need to send the camera to us for repair.
E3, E7, E37: These codes often signal a problem with your
E9, E93-E97: These codes may indicate a problem with your zoom
H0-H9: These H codes can also identify a problem with your
U1-U9: These U codes may also indicate a problem with your
camera's zoom lens.
These codes are standard for both Digital and film cameras.
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You need the camera powered up and all the film used to activate the release mechanism for the lock to release the film door, the Elph film door will not open until all the pictures have been taken. It uses A CR2 Lithium battery
bottom of camera open battery cover with a pen point, insert one AA battery close cover.
film door is opened with pen point left side of film door. load film & bring film leader to take up spool, close film door. rotate advance to # 1 counter on bottom.
turn camera on with sliding switch on front of camera, this opens lens cover and turns on flash .( if wanted ) second click.
at end of film roll pull rewind lever up and rotate clock-wise to rewind film.
open film door and remove film.
remember to turn camera off when not using.
We sell Kirlian Cameras which utilize Poloroid instant film. Our units are highly precise, with a built-in timer for accurate exposures and an adjustable power control to insure all variables are controlled for accuracy!