Is there a certain way to reinsert the bobbin case back into the housing on a Husqvarna Lily 555? I took the case out to clean it but now the upper thread isn't looping around the bobbin case and grabing the bobbin thread to take it up. Help...Please...I'm right in the middle of making drapes!
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Re: How do I reinsert the bobbin case...
Right when you're in the middle of a project - ALWAYS when something goes wrong!
Have you tried turning the bobbin the other direction in the bobbin case? On some machines the direction the bobbin turns can really make a difference.
If you've tried that and still not working:
Make sure the needle is fully up in the needle hole - loosen needle screw, push needle up as far as it will go and re-tighten screw. Drapes are heavy work and the vibration of the machine may have caused the needle to slip a bit.
Re-thread machine from scratch - i.e. take thread completely out of thread path and start at the very first guide from the spool. The thread can sometimes pop out of one or more of the upper guides/paths and this can cause the problem with the bobbin thread.
If the above doesn't cure the bobbin issue, your machine may be out of time and require a Husqvarna tech to look at it/fix it.
Hoping the problem is cured by the above and doesn't require a trip to the sewing machine doctor.
Happy sewing - good luck with the drapes, Kim & Linnette
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A sewing machine operator can often help themselves when their machine does not operate properly. Here are some simple instructions, which if properly used can save time and mechanics service calls. TROUBLE;UPPER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING; This could be trouble;================Do this; 1.Top tension to tight================loosen tension 1 turn 2.Machine improperly threaded=========check threading 3.Thread twisted on guide post========" 4.Thread twisted out of tension=======" 5.Take up spring bent or broken=======Check action of spring 6.Thread jumped off pull off finger===Check threading 7.Needle bent or burred===============new needle 8.Bad cone of thread==================try another cone TROUBLE;LOWER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING; 1.Bobbin tensionspring to tight=======Loosen tension slightly 2.Bobbin threaded wrong===============check threading 3.Bobbin wound to tight or uneven=====try new bobbin 4.lint or thread on bobbin case=======clean inside case 5.Lint or thread inside hook==========clean inside hook 6.Bobbin case nicked bent or burred===check/change case TROUBLE;MACHINE STARTED SKIPPING STITCHES; 1.Needle bent or burred===============change 2.Needle set in crooked===============Check 3.Thread jumped off take up spring====check threading 4.Thread jumped off pull off finger===check threading TROUBLE STITCHES SHOWING LOOPS; 1.Forming loops on top of cloth=======Tighten bobbin tension ======================================or loosen top tension. 2.forming loops on bottom of cloth====Tighten top tension 3.Bobbin placed in case incorrectly===remove and replace 4.Bobbin thread slipped from under====check threading of tension===============================bobbin case 5.Lint or thread in top tension=======clean between tension discs
Sounds like you need to remove some thread off the bobbin to get the pressure off. Sometimes if you wind too fast or you have a poor quality thread, the thread will stretch as it winds and causes to bobbin to compress onto the winder shaft.
Ask your local Husky dealer about availability of manuals.....if no joy, google "Husqvarna Lily 530 manual"
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating. Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order. The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST: Ensure sharp new needle, Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then.... Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION: If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ? If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES: Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
BOBBIN TENSION: Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
TOP LOADER: Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
FRONT LOADER: ....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all back properly. FINISHING UP GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT: When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
OTHER ISSUES: If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD: If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks bargainbox.com.au
Check with your local Husqvarna Viking dealer. That is what they are there for. The foot control is a little pricey for that machine, but why would you want to take a risk on cheapening your experience with your machine that you "ADORE" by trying to take the cheap way out in getting a part for it. Get what you need and continue to "ADORE" your machine.
I had this problem when I first bought my machine. I took it in and they told me it was a recall problem. All the machines were having the same problem. They fixed it and I have not had the problem since. I bought mine at a Joanne fabrics. Hope this helps.