Question about KitchenAid KSCS25FKSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Ice Maker Control Light Blinks Red and...

When the freezer is opened an element in the back of the fridge is visibly red and the sound of fizzling water as it drips on the element is audible.

When water is connected to the fridge, it delivers ice and water perfectly. The snap, crackle and pop obviously concerns me.

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6 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Superba ice maker stopped working, door water still dispensing

I think what happened here is that it just didn't prime after you moved it. As long as the ejector blades are in the 2:00 position the module should be ok and it sounds like the optics are working good. Remove the quarter inch screw holding the ice maker harness cover on the lower right side. Pull the cover off. Now pull the ice-maker straight out but leave the harness plugged in. Get yourself a piece of insulated wire about 4 inches long and strip each end about 1/4 inch. Unplug the refrigerator. Pull the cover off the icemaker module. You will see 2 test ports marked T & H. Place the jumper wire in T & H and place the ice maker on the shelf where you have enough room to close the freezer door. Close the door and plug the refer back in. Wait 60 seconds and open the freezer door. The module should be rotating. If it's not, press the light switch 3 times, see if it starts. If its rotating, remove the jumper wire, put the cover back on and place the ice-maker back in it's holder. The water should fill at approx the 12:00 position. Follow the above in the exact order and you should be back in business. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Apr 30, 2007

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: ice maker not working

then you either after doing this have a water to the ice maker problem, or an ice maker issue
go to the water valve and disconnect the small plastic line at the water valve and with a cheater cord connect it to the water valve, naturaly remove the factory connector at the water valve first and plug your cheater cord into the ac if you get water out of the valve the valve is good if you do not the valve is bad

if you get water out of the valve then you have a problem in the ice maker IF the line to the ice maker is clear and no obstructions

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker will not make ice. Red light blinks

I have a kitchenaid with the same problem. Red light blinks twice when open is normal. Hold the flap down and the red light will be on.= normal= optics are working. If the ice rakes rotate, module is probably fine. Check the simplest solutions first, defrost the freezer in case the icemaker water nozzel might be frozen. That solved my problem. I then increased my freezer temp by a couple of degrees and so far, no problems.
Good luck.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ice maker stop making ice red light flashing

http://www.dryerpartsonline.com/4389102-Icemaker-Optics-Control-Board_p_626.html

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

radar001
  • 1051 Answers

SOURCE: ice maker is not making ice

Even though the water dispenser is OK you need to make sure the tray(s) in the ice maker are filling. The filter valve, located to the rear of the ice maker can freeze over and stop water flow. Check the supply line for the ice maker, it may be separate from the water dispenser.

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

  • 942 Answers

SOURCE: the ice maker is not working and red blinks on the

Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

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Is it getting water? The inlet valve on the back of the fridge where the water line connects is a frequent source of ice maker problems. If the It sounds like you've covered the other major issues.

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I have a maytag side by side with water/icemaker. model msd2456dew. it has frozen up in the freezer, under the white interior paneling. we think this is what is causing the cool air to not filter into...


Checking defrost components on Maytag SideXSide refrigerators
To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

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1 Answer

Ice maker will not make ice. Red light blinks


I have a kitchenaid with the same problem. Red light blinks twice when open is normal. Hold the flap down and the red light will be on.= normal= optics are working. If the ice rakes rotate, module is probably fine. Check the simplest solutions first, defrost the freezer in case the icemaker water nozzel might be frozen. That solved my problem. I then increased my freezer temp by a couple of degrees and so far, no problems.
Good luck.

Jan 30, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

1 Answer

The freezer and the fridge are not on but the


flashing light stating that its too warm .. compressor probably is not running / power is ok or lights would not be on . look for a bad relay . somethes you can here clicking in back.. that is the comp trying to start .**** hop this helps you mmm leave feed badk pls .

Dec 09, 2009 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

2 Answers

RED TEMP WARNING LIGHT ON MOTOR RUNNING


I'm sorry to have to tell you that this sounds like a very expensive fault to fix!
Either your fridge/freezer has degassed (lost the refridgerant gas) through a small leak in the pipe system behind or inside the freezer compartment, OR the compressor (what you called the motor) has started to fail.
Either way, these are very expensive repair jobs. It's possible to replace the compressor within about an hour, but if your model is out of guarantee, there will be around a £50/60 Call-out charge and the compressor will cost between £75 and £150 depending on the model.
Alternatively, if the fridge/freezer has lost gas, the engineer would have to try to find the leak - this could be IMPOSSIBLE if the leak is within the pipework inside the back of the fridge or above/below the freezer compartment.
I'm sorry to say that it's looking like you may have to part with a lot of money - or say goodbye to the fridge/freezer you have!

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3 Answers

Hotpoint fridge freezer green and red light on, switch offering 0


It could be a few problems to do with electrics, but try this first:

Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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2 Answers

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1. Has the fridge freezer just been
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2. Has the fridge freezer been loaded
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3. Have the doors been closed
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1 Answer

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