Question about GE GBS22HCR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

3 Answers

Ice Maker doesn't work, condenser fan was not running

I shipped my fridge over to the Philippines from Virginia. Made it here 5 months later. Don't know how many times it was shifted around or abused. Got it in the house, plugged it into step-down transformer 220 to 110. It powered up, hooked up the ice maker supply to find that it didn't work. It made ice a couple times then quit. Freezer wasn't getting cold. The condenser fan wasn't running, so Mr. Filipino Sparky replaced the fan with an 110 volt fan which runs when the compressor is on. Now the freezer is cold. I tested the resistance on the removed DC fan and found it to be red to white lead is 1731 ohms and the yellow to white is 2945 ohms. I think the motor is OK? I need to check the control board, but need help? Does the control board also control the electronic ice maker and is there an electrical interface between the condenser fan and the ice maker. BTW, there is no green power light on the ice maker with the switch on. In other words will the ice maker work with my jack legged 110 volt condenser fan? Thanks in advance, Model number is GBS22HCRBWW, Serial number VG046480

Dave Cecil, Ground Zero for Typhoon Frank 6/21/08....Philippines

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  • Dave Cecil Jul 20, 2008

    The Freezer is working and the temps are 5 degrees below, I have been making ice in bags since the ice maker quit. I do not hear the timer motor running on the ice maker. I have on twice got ice out of the thing. But it hasn't produced squat since I disconnected and reconnected the water in an effort to see if my filter was a problem or not.



    Thanks, Dave

  • Dave Cecil Jul 20, 2008

    Thanks for the info...still think I need a control board...I just want to make sure it is not the ice maker itself or the control board?

  • Dave Cecil Jul 20, 2008

    Good info, will do it soonest, it is 8 PM here on Sunday...Thanks great info! I will be back to you with the results. Dave

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When your ice maker produces small or hollow cubes, it's a sign the unit isn't getting enough water. The cause could be a faulty thermostat or a bad water-inlet valve--problems you may want a professional to fix.
Or if you're lucky, you may just have a clog in the water-supply system.

See "HOW ICE MAKERS WORK " at link below

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_1_3.asp#Level1_1

Posted on Jul 20, 2008

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Hi Cecil
Im Dave

Hopefully I can help. If your fan runs then all freezer is getting cold than the fan is not your problem.

MODULAR CONTROLS

An icemaker's motor and switches may be in a module that must be replaced as a unit if any one part is bad. Holes in the module let you test the parts. CAUTION: Unplug the refrigerator before testing the icemaker motor or heater. Don't touch the jumper wire when testing the thermostat.

To use the test holes in the module, take off the icemaker cover and insert VOM(volt-ohm meter) probes in the holes. The components to test are usually listed inside the cover. When testing, shutoff arm should be down, and ejector blades should be in normal resting(2 o'clock) position.

To test module motor with VOM on RX1, insert probes into test holes L(line voltage) and M(motor). Look for a reading indicating significant continuity. Test heater in holes L and H(moldheater); look for a reading near 72 ohms. To replace module, take out screws and pull off. Replace entire module. If heater tests faulty, unmount icemaker, unscrew housing from ice mold-heater unit, and replace mold-heater unit.
Test thermostat with freezer cold. Unplug refrigerator. Insert bare ends of an insulated wire in holes T(thermostat) and H. WITHOUT TOUCHING WIRE, plug in refrigerator. If motor runs, replace thermostat. To replace thermostat, unplug refrigerator and unmount module and housing. Slip thermostat out of housing. Replace thermostat, using special metallic putty where it touches mold.

SEPARATE CONTROLS
In a non-modular icemaker, the motor, switches, and thermostat can all be tested and replaced separately. To reach them, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR. Then take off the front cover of the icemaker and the mounting plate under it. There are usually three switches: The on-off switch is activated by the shutoff arm. The holding switch keeps power flowing to the ejector blades during the ice release phase. The water inlet valve switch controls the flow of water from the water inlet valve. When replacing the thermostat, use the recommended heat-transferring putty between it and the ice mold. To test on-off or holding switch, unmount it and take off leads. With VOM on RX1, probe COM(usually separate from and on the side of the switch) terminal and other two terminals in turm. Look for zero reading on one terminal, infinity on the other. Push button on switch in and retest. Look for reverse readings.
To test thermostat, unmount it, disconnect its leads, and let it warm to room temperature. With VOM on RX1, probe both leads. Look for infinity reading. Place thermostat in a working freezer, and test again. Look for a zero reading.
To test water inlet valve switch, unmount it and take off leads. With VOM on RX1, probe both terminals. Look for zero reading with button out, infinity when you push button in.
To test motor, trace and disconnect motor leads. With VOM on RX10, probe both leads. Look for a reading indicating significant continuity. Replace if infinity or zero.

Posted on Jul 20, 2008

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It could be the the control board or a broken wire in the door.

But if you hear the timer motor running then you are getting power to the ice maker.

Have you check the temperature in the freezer?

The freezer must be 5 degrees or below for the ice maker to work.

Here is a link on how to test the ice maker.

Posted on Jul 20, 2008

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