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Blows main house breaker

Machine blows main house breaker as water level is reached in machine
all systems ok until this point

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I would disconnect the heater element.When you turn the unit back on and all is ok the element is bad if not the pump motor is your problem.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

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KUDK01ILBS5), SN: FR2702809. Have used this machine 6 years and just recently experienced noise that I eventually traced down to a bad recirculation pump bearing that failed due to a small leak in the...


The water level in the machine should be slightly under the heat element. The float you refer to is only for overfill and should not be activated if the machine is filling properly (the water level should be lower than the float switch activation point).

The resistance range on the inlet valve is 890 - 1080 ohms

The machine fills on time and there is flow restrictive washer in the valve, if it becomes contaminated the water level will be insufficient.

Let me know if you have questions.

May 22, 2010 | Dishwashers

4 Answers

I have a hobart lx-g model which i purchased used a month ago. At the start everything worked great...then when ever i would push the "off" button it would shut down and restart by iteself......


Hi,

Initially would suggest to check that the power supply requirements are satisfied. You might also need to check the breakers. Depending on the exact model number, the AC supply can be as shown below:
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If the above checks out OK, then it could be as you have suspected, the controller is messed up, more specifically the firmware or related electronics. You could of course try a reset by unplugging from the mains or switching off the appropriate breakers for say half an hour.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Oct 03, 2008 | Hobart Dishwashers

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I get error IE on my LG dishwasher.


IE is inlet error, displayed when "Not reached to the normal water level in spite of 10 min. water supply"

Possible cause:

  • The Water Supply Tap is closed.
  • The Water Supply is shut off.
  • The Inlet Hose is kinked.
  • The Water Pressure is very low.(below 10 psi)
  • Inlet Valve is OK?
  • The filter of Inlet Valve is clogged by impure water.
  • The Hall sensor is OK?
  • The Impeller of Air Guide is bound.
Remedy:

  • Cut power by tripping circuit breaker or unplugging power cable for ten minutes.
  • Take action on Water Supply device.
  • Measure the electric resistance of Inlet Valve. (950-1300 )
  • Clean the filter of Inlet Valve.
  • Check the frequency of Inlet Water by the Test Mode.
  • Replace the Air Braker.

on Jan 31, 2009 | LG 24 in. LDS 5811 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Could you please tell me what error codes 21 and 6 relate to on a Winterhalter GS502 dishwasher. Many thanks. Barry CER


error 6 relates to a blocked drain pump. if the drain pump is working ok check if the tank level sensor is operating or if the air chamber in the wash tank is blocked.
error 21 relates to the drain pump being activated. normally related to error 6.
also check water inlet solenoid valve is working correctly. ie not blocked or passing.
all parts of the machine can be activated manually by entering service mode.
when machine is off press service button or switch on main pcb.
p00 appears. press and hold main wash button. --- appears. using the long and short wash buttons you can scroll through parts of the machine. displayed as a01 a02 a03 etc.drain pump is a12 solenoid valve is a13. these are activated by pressing the button. when activating the drain pump the display will count down. this number is the water level in the wash tank. if it's counting down the level sensor is ok.
hope this helps
jarv

Mar 29, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Faulty Diplomat Dishwasher - tripping mains fuse


Hello,

My dishwasher a diplomat 12 program (hja8640) was doing exactly the same where every now and again when turned on at the plug it would trip. After engineers coming out several times and failing to fix it, they condemed it. New one was supplied, however did exactly the same thing. The electrician came back, checked the RCD power breaker and this was fine. It was then discovered that some dishwashers and washing machines send out a lot of earth leakage, combine this with other appliances on in the house can be enough to trip.

Soloution. The electrician removed the kitchen circut from the RCD breaker and intalled another breaker RCD just for the kitcehn loop, this therefore means that the kitchen has a seperate trip from the rest of the house, and touch wood, has solved the problem. This mind you has taken about three months to work out so i hope it saves you some time.

Always use a fully qualified electrician though.

Thanks.

Oct 21, 2008 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

Indesit evolution de73 dishwasher


01 = Acquastop operated due to leak / overfill - machine drains until empty + lmin.

A02 = Heater Relay open circuit/short circuit or Thermistor or Safety T/Stat o/c or s/c or Element machine fills to Level Switch & Wash Pump runs.

A03 = Thermistor open circuit /short circuit - machine drains until Level Switch resets +1minute

A04 = Unable to sense/reach temperature in 70mins. - machine drains until Level Switch resets + lminute

A05 = Level Switch not resetting in within 3' 20" of drain commencing - machine drains until Level Switch resets +1 minute

A06 = Not used see also H20 at end

A07 = Wash pump Triac closed/open circuit - check that Drain Pump is not disconnected or Aquastop operated

A08 = Auxiliary Wash Pump Triac closedlopen circuit - check Wash Motor operation- machine drains until Level switch resets+30"

A09 = Main Wash Pump Triac closed/open circuit - cheek Wash Motor operation- machine drains until Level Switch resets+30"

A10 = Fill Solenoid valve Triac closedlopen circuit - check valve/operation - machine drains until Level Switch resets+30"

A11 = 1/2 load Solenoid Valve Triac or alternating Wash Motor action - check Solenoid Valve operation & alternating Motor action, replace Module if required - machine drains until Level Switch resets +30"

A12 = Relay with open circuit - check Heater, replace Module if required - machine drains until Level Switch resets+30"

A 13 = Dispenser Triac incorrect operation closed/open circuit - Wash Cycle completes but with Dispenser Lid notfunctioning correctly

H20 = Static 'Fill Time exceeding 6 minutes - cheek for blockages/low pressure

Apr 07, 2008 | Indesit 24 in. DE73 Evolution...

6 Answers

Asko dishwasher 1475 indicates high water level


The "High Water Level" in the machine can be triggered not only by the Styrofoam operated switch in the safety tray under the machine's tub, but also by the Overfill Pressure Switch pictured here

My previous post describes the erratic behavior this switch can cause. It seemed almost at random, the "High Water Level" condition would occur in whatever cycle I used.

0643b5b.jpg

It is easily located at the end of a small rubber hose visible when the kick panel and service covers are removed. Look just above where the electrical power terminal block is. The switch is held in place by the clip protruding from the top (as shown in the picture above). The sides of the clip need to be pressed towards the center to release the switch. I simply rotated the switch until the clip was turned to the longer side of the rectangular hole it clips in to. It then just fell out.

This pressure switch triggers the drain pump when too much water enters the machine, but it can malfunction and will keep the drain pump running "forever" until you turn off the breaker. Unfortunately, until the problem is rectified, the dishwasher "remembers" what it was doing when you disconnected the power and when you re apply power, the drain pump will again start draining your already empty dishwasher.

I pulled the connectors attached to the spade terminals on the switch back a bit and then forward as far as they would go ensuring all the wires had continuity from the terminal to the opposite end of the wire it was attached to. When I re applied the power, the empty dry dishwasher attempted to start up where it left off in the cycle it was on, but the "High Water Level" conditioned cleared. Pressing and holding the single button opposite the light left on canceled the cycle and the machine went into standby as it should.

I hope this helps someone else. Until I "Googled" the part number printed on the switch, I didn't know what triggered the "overfill" or "High Water Level" condition.

Part number on the part was 8058475. I also found out the small hose attached is part number 8058500. The small hose is not as readily available as the pressure switch, so extra care should be used when handling it.

Oct 09, 2007 | Asko 24 in. D3250 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

DE73 A04 Error code


you may have a bad heating element..or temperature sensor the water temperture is not getting hot enough to let the dishwasher run. you my reset it and try running the water in the sink until it reaches hot ... then try stating the dishwasher...let me know if this helps

Aug 28, 2007 | Indesit 24 in. DE73 Evolution...

2 Answers

Blowing the electrics


You need to get to the drain hose (always a bit fiddly with a built-in model). Look at how it is routed (the position of the highest point is important for later), then extract it from its connection to the mains drainage, and use it to empty the machine into a shallow container placed lower than the dishwasher. As soon as the whole hose gets below the water level in the machine, it will start to drain. Because shallow containers tend to fill quickly and are then hard to move away, you may want to take several bites at this: Every time you want it to stop, lift the free end of the hose above the water level and secure it there so it doesn't fall off when your back is turned. When the machine is empty, put the hose back where you got it from, paying particular attention to where the highest point in the hose goes. In terms of what's blowing the electrics: Unless you know the machine has suffered physical damage from some external mishap, the usual culprit is pinhole corrosion in the jacket of the heating element letting water in to compromise the insulation. To prove the fault: Disconnect electrical power. Find the electrical connections to the element and pull off the two that go to insulated spade terminals (the one that goes straight to the body is the earth, and should be left on). Tie the bare wire ends off with insulating tape so they don't touch anything they shouldn't. Reconnect the power and try to run a cycle. Even though the cycle is unlikely to complete properly in this condition, you will know the original fault lay with the element if the machine manages not to blow the electrics any more. New elements are not usually difficult to fit - expect to pay about £40 for the one for your machine. A.

Aug 01, 2007 | Zanussi ZT485 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Machine does not fill with water


I had a Zanussi d/w up until about 5 years ago and there were two perennial problems that required attention. First of all, there was a double solenoid inlet valve for the water supply at the back, one part was the main fill, the other was a supply to the water softener - big plastic lump in the bottom under the salt filler. The main fill solenoid would fail about every 2 years and I would buy a replacement directly from Zanussi for about £10. I believe the failure may have been due to the fact that the machine was filled from the hot supply. This was allowed in the specification but the higher temperature may have led to failure. (Side note) In any case, it is better to fill dishwashers with cold water anyway because during the initial part of the wash cycle proteins are rinsed off rather than being stuck on the items, and secondly, heating from cold increases the contact time of the wash detergent solution and also improves results. If the solenoid controlling the supply to the water softener has failed, it may well lead to the phenomenon you are seeing because the regeneration cycle happens after the wash in most machines. If you feel comfortable about using a mains tester(a neon screwdriver one would do) and can *safely* reach the solenoid with power on and the machine the right way up, then you could see whether power is reaching the regeneration side of the valve or not. If it is, and water is not entering then you have the culprit. Another area that affects filling is the level switch. Generally these are pneumatically operated device looking like a flat drum, about 8cm across and 1cm or so thick. They are generally mounted up high in the machine or door and have two or three wires on terminals and a small flexible plastic tube leading somewhere into the wet area of the machine. As the water level rises, water goes part way up the tube and air above it operates the switch to turn off the water. Sometimes there are two levels used and hence two switches inside this assembly working at different pressures. One could have gone. Another problem is that gunk can get in the lower part of the tube and reduce or block it from detecting. and generally this results in no filling at all. Hope this helps!

Mar 25, 2006 | Zanussi 24 in. DA6141 Built-in Dishwasher

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