Question about Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with IceMagic Plus Ice Maker

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Front of in door Icemaker door spring fell out!

There is a tension spring and small round plastic piece with stem and eyehole connector that fell out of the ice maker chute door assembly. Now the freezer is dumping cold air because the door is not sealed just floating in the chute. Ice just falls out on the floor. How do I reinstall this spring and looks like a delay switch? Some diagrams come close but the springs do not look the same, Whirlpool GS5SHAXSL01 model # Side by Side with IN Door Dispenser

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Any chance of some photoes may be able to figure out if have some pics.

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

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Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

on Feb 24, 2011 | Samsung CLX-6200FX Printer

1 Answer

Ice maker shutoff bar fell off


This arm is called a "bale". There should be a small, round opening on the backside of the front of the ice maker. Use a mirror to look behind the square control box of the icemaker and you should see the opening. It is impossible to see it from the front when the icemaker is installed in the unit.

Oct 10, 2014 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Remove inside door trim front


Most vehicle door trims are held to the door panel by either screws or plastic "pop" connectors or a combination of the two.
There are obviously different methods for getting at those, but in general pop ones just require you to put a flat blade of some description between the door card and the door panel, then lever the door trim away. Most likely, the handles will have screws that need to be undone. some of these might be hidden behind plastic blanking caps. Window winders of the manual kind usually have a spring ring which holds them to the shaft. A piece of cloth run round the shaft between the handle and the door trim might remove the spring clip and then you will be able to work out how if manages to hold the handle in place.

John

Oct 21, 2013 | 2007 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

How do i replace the door boot seal?


Hello,

This article shows step by step photo instructions on how to replace the door boot seal of a common GE brand front load washing machine.

The washing machine in this example is the GE and the door boot seal
j

  • Phillips head screw driver
  • small socket wrench
  • 7mm socket
  • replacement door boot seal
  • lots and lots of patience

  1. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.1-120x120.jpg remove dispenser Unplug washing machine and remove dispenser.
  2. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.2-120x120.jpg Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom.
  3. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.3-120x120.jpg Remove screws connecting top control panel to front of washer. Remove screws connecting top control panel to front of washer.
  4. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.4-120x120.jpg Completely remove control panel from front panel. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off.
    Completely remove control panel from front panel.
  5. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.5-120x120.jpg Use bungie cord to tie back control panel. Use bungie cord to tie back control panel.

  6. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.6-120x120.jpg 'Pop' off the tension spring being careful not to bend or break it. Feel for the tension spring which tightens the door boot seal onto the front panel.
    'Pop' off the tension spring being careful not to bend or break it.
  7. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.7-120x120.jpg pull the right-hand side of the seal tight to reveal the inner tension ring holding the seal onto the inner part of the washer. With tension spring removed, pull door boot seal away from front panel.
    On GE models, pull the right-hand side of the seal tight to reveal the inner tension ring holding the seal onto the inner part of the washer.
  8. replace-front-load-washing-machine-1.8-120x120.jpg remove inner tension ring IMPORTANT: Use a short stem philips head (such as a Husky No. 2 x 1-1/2 In. Phillips Screwdriver) to loosen the inner tension ring via its clamp screw.
    NOTE: you may have to remove the front panel to gain access to the tension ring. If that is the case, remove the front panel by removing the screws positioned at each corner (four screws total). On some models you may have to first remove a lower-front panel to gain access to the bottom two screws of the main front panel.

Dec 04, 2010 | General Electric WCVH6800J Front Load...

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MAC "WIRELESS MOUSE" A 1015. The cover fell off and the metal bar on the cover will not stay in place and the small plastic cover over the light will not stay in place. help


I used Krazy glue (ethyl cyanoacrylate). The metal spring bar was originally held to the the cover by a piece of plastic sticking through the larger round hole at the latch end of the metal bar. Put the glue at that spot only.

Oct 27, 2009 | Apple Bluetooth Wireless Mouse m9269zm/a

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore elite 42936, when I closed the door and started it nothing happened. I opened the door again and a little plastic piece fell out. Any Ideas?


1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkkrqtwwwgtsgwdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krqsddwkbxktttdstrw/1/1303472/5961857/image48287img-or.jpg

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Jul 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My linkage fell apart inside my Symphony III air exchanger


I have one and the spring is to open the intake and exhaust door.

Jan 07, 2009 | Air Purifiers

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Door Latch has broken plastic tab


The door latch assembly comes as one piece. It would actually be much simpler to purchase the new latch and replace the whole assembly instead of trying to put pieces and parts back inside a latch that may or may not work after all your hard effort. If you decide to replace the latch, follow these steps: 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Remove the lower kick plate panel if you like (this can help you reach the latch from a couple of different angles). 3. Open door and feel around the rubber door boot for a wire hoop. At the bottom of the door open is a tension spring. Pull the spring apart and remove the wire hoop from the groove. 4. Gently lift the rubber boot from the groove around the door opening and push inside the machine so you can access the inside of the casing. 5. The door latch assembly is located inside the case on the right-hand side. There should be a couple of wire connectors going to it (remember how they come off). Be careful with the wires, they are small and can break. 6. Unplug the wire connectors and remove the three screws holding the latch in place from the outside of the casing. 7. There should also be a plastic retainer holding the latch in place. Remove latch from retainer. 8. Install new door latch by placing it in the plastic retainer, first. 9. Plug wires connectors in. 10. Re-install the three door latch screws. 11. Re-install rubber door boot around the door opening. Make sure it is properly seated in the groove. 12. Reinsert wire hoop. starting at the top of the door opening, carefully push the wire hoop into the groove and work your way all the way around the bottom where the tension spring would be. (A second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in replace would be handy at this point). 13. Pull tension spring apart and snap into groove. Done. Hopefully this will take care of your problems. Of course, you may not like the idea of having to purchase a whole new door latch assembly, or the effort required to remove and replace. But, it sure beats trying to rebuild the old one. I hope this helps.

Jun 10, 2007 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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