There is a tension spring and small round plastic piece with stem and eyehole connector that fell out of the ice maker chute door assembly. Now the freezer is dumping cold air because the door is not sealed just floating in the chute. Ice just falls out on the floor. How do I reinstall this spring and looks like a delay switch? Some diagrams come close but the springs do not look the same, Whirlpool GS5SHAXSL01 model # Side by Side with IN Door Dispenser
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This arm is called a "bale". There should be a small, round opening on the backside of the front of the ice maker. Use a mirror to look behind the square control box of the icemaker and you should see the opening. It is impossible to see it from the front when the icemaker is installed in the unit.
Most vehicle door trims are held to the door panel by either screws or plastic "pop" connectors or a combination of the two. There are obviously different methods for getting at those, but in general pop ones just require you to put a flat blade of some description between the door card and the door panel, then lever the door trim away. Most likely, the handles will have screws that need to be undone. some of these might be hidden behind plastic blanking caps. Window winders of the manual kind usually have a spring ring which holds them to the shaft. A piece of cloth run round the shaft between the handle and the door trim might remove the spring clip and then you will be able to work out how if manages to hold the handle in place.
If the door will not stay closed it is the spring inside door, or the small plastic piece that holds the spring which is attached to the $80.00 piece called outer door.
To fix it, it is EASY and you do not have to even take the inside cover all the way off. Just remove the three sides of cover by gently slipping a plastic putty knife around rim to release the clips. Then attach the spring to the small hole below where the plastic piece used to be, which is located in the metal on the glass frame piece, use tweezers, hold the other end of spring as you place spring onto plastic door latch and set into place!
Snap the inside cover back on and YAY! FINI!
I used Krazy glue (ethyl cyanoacrylate). The metal spring bar was originally held to the the cover by a piece of plastic sticking through the larger round hole at the latch end of the metal bar. Put the glue at that spot only.
1. Unplug washer. 2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop. 3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub. 4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors. 5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do. 6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots. 7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer. 8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first. 9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
The door latch assembly comes as one piece. It would actually be much simpler to purchase the new latch and replace the whole assembly instead of trying to put pieces and parts back inside a latch that may or may not work after all your hard effort. If you decide to replace the latch, follow these steps:
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Remove the lower kick plate panel if you like (this can help you reach the latch from a couple of different angles).
3. Open door and feel around the rubber door boot for a wire hoop. At the bottom of the door open is a tension spring. Pull the spring apart and remove the wire hoop from the groove.
4. Gently lift the rubber boot from the groove around the door opening and push inside the machine so you can access the inside of the casing.
5. The door latch assembly is located inside the case on the right-hand side. There should be a couple of wire connectors going to it (remember how they come off). Be careful with the wires, they are small and can break.
6. Unplug the wire connectors and remove the three screws holding the latch in place from the outside of the casing.
7. There should also be a plastic retainer holding the latch in place. Remove latch from retainer.
8. Install new door latch by placing it in the plastic retainer, first.
9. Plug wires connectors in.
10. Re-install the three door latch screws.
11. Re-install rubber door boot around the door opening. Make sure it is properly seated in the groove.
12. Reinsert wire hoop. starting at the top of the door opening, carefully push the wire hoop into the groove and work your way all the way around the bottom where the tension spring would be. (A second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in replace would be handy at this point).
13. Pull tension spring apart and snap into groove.
Done. Hopefully this will take care of your problems. Of course, you may not like the idea of having to purchase a whole new door latch assembly, or the effort required to remove and replace. But, it sure beats trying to rebuild the old one. I hope this helps.