As a school teacher who retired some 21 years ago , I still keep the Rollei flag flying even though the slide projectors went into oblivion some 30 years ago. I am aged 75 and am still using the Slide projectors 35A and 37A with its carousel. The lenses i use then in the classroom are Rollei projar (a) 2.8/85 (b)70-120mm (c)1:2.8/85 ISCO lenses , Germany
Using this at home I am forced to keep a distamnce of 29ft where the projected picture on the wall is 40 inches by 60 inches and this is blur. What lens are available to fit my Projecter for a picture half this size like 20 inches by 30 inches. I do not know my optical science rules. Can you help ?
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The Nikon N75 is a film camera. It doesn't use a memory card at all.
If you're referring to some other digital camera that does use an SD/SDHC card, look at the memory card. SD and SDHC cards have a slide switch along one edge. The position farthest from the metal contacts locks the card, protecting it from writes. The position nearest the contacts unlocks the card.
The Nikon F3 uses standard 35mm film, also known as 135. The type of film you use is up to you. You can use black&white film, color transparency (color slides), or color negative (color prints). Prints are generally cheaper than slides but slide films generally produce better results, and prints can be made from slides. You can also make black&white pictures from color films, though obviously you can't go the other way. These films are available in a variety of speeds. Faster films let you shoot in lower light and/or with a faster shutter speed for stopping action, but slower films have finer grain. Different films also have different color properties. No film (or digital sensor, for that matter) reproduces every color exactly. You may need to experiment in order to see which film gives you the colors you like for the types of pictures you like to take.
That fault is typical of the AE1 and closely related models such as the AT1.
First, try seeing if the camera works without the lens attached. If so, then the lens needs attention.
Otherwise, your camera is around thirty to forty years old and needs a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust). The internal lubricant films have dried-out and gummed up the workings. Also the foam light seals and mirror buffer will have either decayed to a sticky corrosive goo or will have gone further and dried out completely, falling away as black powder or gluing some parts together.
A professional CLA and a one-off foam replacement (modern material does not decay) isn't particularly cheap and far exceeds the residual value of the camera. But once it's done the camera should be good for many more years and there are huge numbers of high quality dirt-cheap lenses for it. Shoot on film or slide and scan the images and you have results which will still give any full frame dSLR a run for it's money.
Try to use a Canon specialist as they'll have scrap examples of your camera to cannibalise if spare parts are needed, but that model is really well made and unless you're unlucky then you should get away with a CLA and new foam.
Alternatively, unrestored examples are commonplace and cheap/free, so it's not a bad model to gain your own experience on if you're confident with electro-mechanical devices (the simpler AT1 is a better model to start learning on though as it has far less electronic parts). If you ruin it in the process then you gain experience and spare parts for the next attempt.
This is an electronic failure in the cameras shutter release mechanism. Capacitors will need to be replaced and circuit boards need to be cleaned of the electrolytes that have leaked onto them. Thiscan be repaired fairly inexpensively. However, it's not a user serviceable problem and will need to be repairedby a qualified service technician.
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Getting your meter repaired may be an issue. The SL-35M used a CdS light meter, which nobody really used after the 70's, and they contained toxic cadmium, which has been banned for use in most places, which means these metering cells are no longer manufactured for repair market. They were on the verge of being banned in late '05, so I'd assume by now they're long gone. If you shop around, you may be lucky enough to find some shop to have another Rollei they can scrounge a working meter out of - thats assuming the cell is even the issue (have you checked the battery?).
To venture a guess, I'd look online for shops, since most shops dealing with film cameras and their repair have closed their doors in the last 5-10 years with the propogation of digital. You may have better luck contacting Rollei directly, but who knows. Japan has a HUGE affinity for film and film cameras, so if you're able and willing to ship your camera around the world, and can find someone, that may also be a viable option, again you'll need to look online and try to contact a shop to see what they're able to handle.
Expect anywhere from $125-200US for a meter repair.
First try a "Batteries Plus" type store - you'd be surprised what they have. If that doesn't work you may have to try getting some eager tech school students to build you a special circuit that will "step down" the voltage from a higher voltage battery and use a wired connection to the contacts. Also please provide a review of the camera - it seems like a great 35mm camera.
I think this camera actually has a back that is a separate piece. It is removed by turning 2 "keys" on the bottom of the camera itself, then it will slide off. The operative word here is "think". It is an educated guess based on working in a camera store many, many years ago. good luck