Question about Pioneer PRO-200 60" Rear Projection Television
Your link doesn't work, but sounds like you need your conv ICs changed, and any popped fuses or IC protectors replaced.
On the other matter, please read this:
If you are still running your set with the
intermittencies happening occasionally, TURN IT OFF NOW
AND UNPLUG IT UNTIL TIME TO REPAIR THE BOARD! If it
has shown signs of occasional malfuction and you are
still running it, you are playing Russian Roullette
with your multi-thousand dollar investment.
if you are currently using your set while it's in this
compromised condition of blue flashing, inconsistent
brightnesses, shutdowns - not only are you
risking a ground letting go on a regulation circuit,
causing your voltage to go into runaway, but
you are also risking spikes going directly downline to
the rest of your set. Hinky connections
cause spikes. There's no way to protect the rest of
your set from these spikes by installing a
surge protector on your main power plug, which is way
too far away from the circuitry concerned,
downline from the PS board, to be of any help. The PS
board has spike filtering on the incoming
120v from the wall plug, but that doesn't matter
because it delivers its results DIRECTLY to the
rest of your set, and the same filtering does not exist
at the tail end of the PS board, only at
the nose/incoming end.
If you get a new PS board, there will be a new set of
high precision voltages going downline to the rest of
your set from it. The original voltages are what the
set was set up on originally, they were sent downline
from the original power supply bd to the rest of the
circuitry, where everything was set up according to
them. Voltage regulation is generic, and only has to
wind up being within certain parameters, which means a
great deal of difference may be there among the
voltages, between the old board and the new board.
As such, I do not recommend getting a new board from
Pio for this purpose on the x10 models of Pioneer
Elite, like this one, and some of the x20 models, which
used the same PS board. I instead recommend
having the original PS board resoldered by someone who
knows the ins and outs of how to do so without creating
solder bridges in the super small connections – which
are all over that board, and in massive quantities. It
is not a job for the faint of heart, nor the
inexperienced or ill-equipped. I am the only service
repair tech I know of who is doing what needs to be
done with this board, tho some DIYers claim to have
done so as well. Others have found the board they
resoldered has gone out later, when they didn’t do it
to the level at which I do it. Boards I resolder don’t
go bad weeks, months or years later, like the original
Pio board has done. And like those resoldered by many
DIYers have done. When I resolder that board, I bring
it to the level the other boards in there are already
at - continuous non-problematic use from then on.
There are many boards in there, yet THIS one is the
only one with the problems. This was due to an
inadequate solder flow job way back when the unit was
originally produced. I cure that problem permanently.
DIYers can do it too, as long as they have the
comprehensiveness, dedication, persistence and patience
it takes to do it to the level at which it needs to be
done. Not everybody has that.
If you would like me to do the resoldering op on your
board, contact me directly and I'll send you the proper
info on how, where to send it to, and how much it
costs. Hint - it costs less than getting a new board
from Pioneer and having a local Pioneer authorized
facility install it for you.
email: bob at imageperfection dot com
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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