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Remove your lens, open the back door and observe through the back, your shutter action. Hearing your shutter does not tell you that there is a picture being taken! Depending on the setting, even at 1/1000 you will see "daylight" for an instant. Obviously, your shutter is not opening at all. Let me know!
The grainy nature of the picture is nothing to do with the camera. Do you develop your own film? If you don't and you are paying for processing, find a new processing house! If you are; the problem is reticulation. In any case the 400 ASA negative film will be more grainy that the 100 ASA. Both will benefit from some thoughtful processing. Key points that will help are: Do not over-develop or "push" the film. Pushing is leaving the film in the developer for longer than the recommended time (on the instructions in with the developer chemica)l. Pushing will increase the effective film speed by a controlled amount, but will always increase grain size, some times worth the price.
BUT... the most common reason for graininess when not "pushing" film is reticulation. This is caused by the simple mistake of washing the film after developing and fixing (hopefully at 20 degrees C), in cold tap water. The sudden temperature change causes the grains to join up (Reticulate, just like a giraffe!) into bigger grains. Not reversible. Just do the wash stage in water that is the same temperature as the developer and the fixer. Of course the wash or stopper between dev and fix can cause the same problem... same answer, have everything at 20 degC.
The irregular patches (dark on the negative) will be caused by insufficient agitation during development. The tank should be inverted every few seconds, or if in a commercial dev line, it should have nitrogen gas agitation every few seconds. Usually what happens is the dev house runs out of nitrogen but doesn't realise it has. If you can post a sample of your pictures I can be more accurate with a diagnosis, or email some to me at firstname.lastname@example.org
The F65 is a film camera. You must get the film processed before you can see any pictures. If you have the setup yourself, you can develop the film. Otherwise, take the film to a photo processing lab (any camera store and many department stores, drugstores, and supermarkets either have them or have access to one) and get it processed. If you're shooting negative film, you can get prints. If you're shooting slide film, you can get slides. Either way, you can also request a CD containing the digitized images.
Again, the F65 is a film camera. The camera can't show you the images it has taken.
Might be film coming loose when inserting in loading spool and skipping when winding forward after making a shot. Could try bending first 1/2" of film tongue before inserting in slot in windup spool so that it won't slip out and be sure film sprocket holes are engaged with film transport sprockets and a bit under tension when loading film before closing camera cover. Your 'half-frame' problem might be that you are shooting at a 'flash' shutter setting of 1/60 when not using flash.
I have seen bent mirrors and mis-aligned focus screens do this. It is possible for the film plane to be in focus while the viewfinder is out. you can test this with newspaper and a tape measure. buy a cheap roll of neg film and set up your camera on a tripod at a fixed distance, say 6ft. from the paper. Ideally I'd attach the paper to a light stand or the back of a chair. so that the paper is at 6ft, the back wall is at maybe 10ft. and there's something in the foreground in case its front focusing. then set the lens at what the scale says is 6ft regardless of what the viewfinder looks like. Shoot one frame with an aperture of f/2.8 on your 50mm. Shoot a second frame at f/16. rewind the film & develop it at a drug store or 1hr lab. if both images are sharp, the problem is in the mirror/ prism. if the 2.8 is OOF it's the mounting ring. I want you to shoot the F/16 to prove that the stop down lever is functioning.
If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.
depending on the type of film you are using and where you are taking it could be the problem. if you are using professional film and taking it to a pharmacy to get developed, the chemicals used at these places will erase the images off the film and appear as if the film is blank.
Looks like you are not loading the film onto the take-up spool correctly.
Go back to the development store and ask them if they can give you a spool of waste film (e.g. one that got exposed to the light or something). Otherwise buy the cheapest film you can find.
Load the film in the camera. Take a few frames. Open the camera back up a bit, the film should have advanced. You will be able to tell this because there is more film on the takeup spool. The frames are also numbered nearby.
It might take you a few goes to get the film to load correctly. If no luck, maybe the file wind-on is broken and the camera needs repair.