Question about Kenmore Oasis HE 27082 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer

Hi JSROCK,
I noticed your posts back in November concerning the Oasis Washer. My model is 110.27062600 (Serial CT0570602). The unit continually beeps with no error codes. It starts by itself in the middle of the night. If I power on and wait 5 seconds, the delay button lights and the display counts 1H, 2H, up to 10 and then goes back to normal at 43. Push start and it will run and beep continually through all the cycles; however, I cannot tell you if it is filling and working correctly. Please advise as to what board to replace. My email is shurst3@georgiaprintco.com On a personal note I am glad I spent all the extra money to get a top of the line washer. My old cheap model lasted 15 years and was still working when I gave it away. I think the top of the line model lasted 15 months. I appreciate your help.

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  • 3 more comments 
  • shurst3 Jul 21, 2008

    Thank you for your very quick response. I ordered the part on Monday July 21st, 2008 (Came out to $130.60 with shipping). I will keep you posted on how well Sears did at getting the correct part to us and how fast. I will update you on the result of the fix. Thanks again for your help.

  • dfwcouple Jul 29, 2008


    After doing some trouble shooting we gat a error code of F68 and I believe this points to the control unit part W10201186 is this right?

  • shurst3 Jul 31, 2008

    The interface board was delivered today and fixed the problem. Great instructions and suggestions. Keep up the good work!!!

  • joycdex May 11, 2010

    Can you explain to me how to get the white cover off the interface board. Mine is being stubborn and doesn't want to come off. Don't want to break it. Thank you!

  • Lee Ann Cush Oct 02, 2013

    I have a Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer that the power button will not work. What is the problem.

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  • 5,911 Answers

The problem is the User Interface board behind the control panel. This is a noted problem that often occurs with this model washer. The only option, I hate to say (unless you want to listen to the washer beep all the time) is to replace the board.

The part(s) you need are available at searspartsdirect.com. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Control Panel Parts" heading for item number 7 (User Interface - part #8564393). You may also consider item number 12 (User Interface Harness - part #3407184) to rule out the possibility of a bad wiring harness. You can try to do end to end continuity checks before considering a replacement just to be sure. The contacts are sometimes difficult to get to with a multimeter, though.

This is a fairly simple repair to accomplish on your own. Just follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer.
2. Remove the three screws in the back of the console.
3. With the screws loosened, the console will come of by lifting from the back first. Use care not to damage the small wire harness under the console.
4. Remove the wire harness from the User Interface board and remove the knob (by pulling) from the front panel. Lay the entire control panel face down on a soft surface (like a stack of towels).
5. Carefully remove the white plastic cover plate that is installed over the control board.
6. Once the cover is removed, carefully remove the old interface board by prying gently on the series of tabs around the perimeter of the board. There may also be some mounting screws to remove as well.
7. With the old board removed, carefully install the new board by inserting the control knob shaft through the hole first. Then, gently snap the board in place, making sure all the tabs around the perimeter of the board are in place. Reinstall any small mounting screws. NOTE: Do not handle the surface of the board with your hands. Handle the edges only, to avoid electrostatic discharge from your body causing damage to the board.
8. Reinstall the protective plastic white cover over the interface board.
9. Flip the console upright and reinstall the wiring harness and control knob (The knob only goes on one way).
10. Carefully insert the console in the front grooves on top of the washer, first. Then lower the back and reinstall the screws.

The repair is pretty straight forward. However, if you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS I tried to find parts for this washer at others websites, but could not find a listing for it.


Posted on Jul 19, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 31, 2008

    Shurst3,

    Congrats and repairing your washer by yourself. I'm glad I was able to provide you with the assistance you needed. I hope it stays running now for a long time.

    Dfwcouple,

    If you look inside your washer, there is a tech sheet that explains all the error codes. To access, perform the following:

    1. First of all, tape the lid shut with some duct tape so it will not open (you'll thank me later).
    2. Along the seam in the front of the washer where the top meets the front panel are two retaining clips. They are located about 2 inches in from each side. Locate the clips and take a putty knife and push straight in while lifting up to release. Sometimes this can take some effort.
    3. Once you have both sides released, the entire top will lift up, exposing the wash tub and interior cabinet. If you had not taped the lid shut, it would swing open when you lift the top up and potentially break (especially, if you have a glass top model).
    4. Along the interior cabinet wall in the front of the washer should be a plastic bag containing the tech sheet. Inside, you will find explanations for each error code and how to troubleshoot.

    If you have already located your tech sheet, please let me know what the F68 code indicates and what led you to your diagnosis. I apologize, I do not have a tech sheet in front of me. Some of these codes have multiple meanings and I can't remember them all. If you get confused by any of the instructions, please post back and let me know. Go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response to your questions. I hope this helps you.


  • ghelpya May 31, 2011

    My washing machine was cycling through the wash temp settings and never provided an error code. Sometimes it would run and sometimes not after unplugging. Pulled apart and found corrosion on the interface board between SW27 and D54. Did a temporary patch with tinfoil and packing tape from that circuit to wide circuit that runs across the bottom and it stopped the cycling. Doesn't allow manual changing of the temp setting now but does allow the washing machine to run with no problems and cheaply buys time until can order and install new interface board. Interestingly none of the self-diagnostic tests would run with this circuit not working.

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