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ROLAND JC-50 ANPLIFIER

The amp is a Roland JC-50 model 50 watt with a 12' SPEAKER, THE REVERB DOESN'T GET ANYTHING, I took it out of the cainet and
I checked the top of the reverb unit visuallyand everything seems to look okay,do I have to look under the reverb unit also to get a better look at the spring connections? also I noticed 2 additional fuses inside the cabinet beside the exterior one, could you tell me what are they used for.
Thank you==guitardean

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5 Suggested Answers

techman
  • 3130 Answers

SOURCE: Unit going into protection mode

You should first have or check the impedance and resistance of the speakers. then if all the speakers and wiring checks good, the only way to tell if this unit is good or the output section has no problems, is to hook up load resistors to where the speakers go, insert 400 to 1000 hz @.775MV into an input, hook up an osilliscope to the load resistors and slowly turn up the volume and see if the waveform clips before it shuts down. I doubt if you will have the equipment to preform these test but a good repair shop will be able to help you out. If it does not clip or go out then its all speaker wiring and/or the speakers.

Posted on Oct 04, 2006

ithana
  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: Speakers for Altec Lansing 5100 system on and off

this is due to small mismatch on ur dell desktop with speakers, so remove it and try again

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SOURCE: Subs and amp problem

2 subs and 1 amp

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bi-Amping my speakers with HTR-5850

You can at a minimum, bi-wire your speakers by wiring the speakers with the A and B speaker outputs. The A speaker outputs end up running the tweeters and the B will end up powering the woofers.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Zone 2 problem

I know this is old and im sure you have it solved by now, but it might be a good idea to check the amp setting of Zone 2. Is it switched to Internal or external? I remember something strange about this amp in that when you change from using the rear surrounds and go to use them in Zone 2, it resets the amp setting or something like that. Hope it helps if you still need it.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Hi, With my sound engineers hat on I would use a small PA. mixer, amp and speakers!!!!
For quality you need a full, flat frequency range system with good headroom.
I assume this is for your own listening, when using an acoustic kit?
There are one box solutions.
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  2. General purpose powered wedge.
  3. Keyboard Amp, these are full range and available in various sizes.
  4. Bass amp with high frequency driver (tweeter), not the best but will have good bottom end.
  5. Powered or active speaker, much like a powered wedge, but a different shape, needs an input volume control.
All these systems need to have large bass units, 10 inch minimum, and will be in mono. Two will give you stereo,
How loud depends primarily on the sensitivity of the speaker. But manufactures insist on selling things by power. Worth looking this up.
At a couple of feet away, 20 watts should do it, with high sensitivity speakers, more likely you find most things as above start at about 70 Watts.
Good luck, I hope I have widened you choices a bit.
All the best, Chris the Fader.

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You seem to be looking for an amp made for car audio. There are many brands, but I going to give you the specs for your particular speaker which will help in choosing, not a specific name brand amp, but at least one with the proper power outputs/requirements.

Your speaker, based on the model number you provided, is rated at 4 ohms .Power handling range is 50-300 watts. And a peak of 600watts. That does not mean start cranking 600watts thru the speaker, it will blow. I suggest you acquire a single (mono) channel amp that provides 350-400 watts at 4 ohms.

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Their 12-watt and 15 watt amp have a 6.5". Their 20 watt amp has an 8". The 80 watt has a 12".

Hope this helps.

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Test this bylistening with headphones and see if you get same sound.

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People should never buy a 350VA. They are way to small for power supplies most of us now have. you need to start out to 1000VA plus you need to do the math to figure out how big of a UPS you actually need in the show room.
What am I talking about? What is the significant, or the math of what I am saying here. 115V x 1 amps = 115VA x .778 power factor = 89.47 watts Start up 50 watts = 39.47 watts
115V x 2 amps = 230VA x .778 power factor = 178.94 watts Start up 50 watts = 128.94 watts
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115V x 4 amps = 460VA x .778 power factor = 357.88 watts Start up 50 watts = 307.88 watts
115V x 5 amps = 575VA x .778 power factor = 447.35 watts Start up 50 watts = 397.35 watts
115V x 6 amps = 690VA x .778 power factor = 536.82 watts Start up 50 watts = 486.82 watts
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115V x 10 amps = 1150VA x .778 power factor = 894.70 watts Start up 50 watts = 844.70 watts
115V x 11 amps = 1265VA x .778 power factor = 984.17 watts Start up 50 watts = 934.17 watts
115V x 12 amps = 1380VA x .778 power factor = 1073.63 watts Start up 50 watts = 1023.63 watts
115V x 13 amps = 1495VA x .778 power factor = 1163.11 watts Start up 50 watts = 1113.11 watts
115V x 14 amps = 1610VA x .778 power factor = 1252.58 watts Start up 50 watts = 1202.58 watts
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