I have a pd150 plus i have placed the speakers in front of my system and still getting feedback. so i purchased a floor monitor in order to be able to hear what my small church croud is hearing. now i do not know how to hook them up . there is an in and out on the monitors but how do they hook to the pd150. i have the cables. what do i need now,i did not know it would be necessary to have monitors, now that i have them i would like to be able to use them. please help thank you
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Re: getting feedback on pd150
It seems to me that if the monitor speakers have both in and out jacks, they intend to pass the power through to the speakers for the audience. Connect from the amp to the monitors and from the monitors to your regular speakers.
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All you need to do is get a couple of quarter inch jack plugs. Sometimes known as mono Jack Plugs. You solder the plus wire to the small lug and the negative wire to the larger lug. These jack plugs are different to the stereo ones used on headphones as there is only one black plastic band visible on the shaft, wheras stereo ones have two. You can get them from places like Maplin etc. Image below:
Please note these come in different shapes and sizes to the one shown. The body of the plug screws off to show the lugs. You put the body on the cable before soldering!
Hi, Actually here is some theory on the subject. Let's use a stereo system with only two front speakers. One left and one right. On the back of the Amplifier ( free standing "Preamps" don't have speaker connections) there are speaker outputs. Black represents minus (-) and Red represents plus (+). On the back of the speaker systems. The same thing applies. If your connections are consistent i.e. black to black and red to red. Then the speaker components will be physically moving in and out and the exact same instant. Their motions will be synchronized. The term for this is (IN PHASE)
If one of the speakers has the cables reversed, then the speaker will not sound as good. The reason being is that one speaker will be moving in while the other speaker will be moving out. They will not be in synchronization. This will create an (OUT OF PHASE) condition. This causes what is called PHASE CANCELLATION. What occurs in phase cancellation is that some of the sound is canceled out and the low notes are almost completely canceled out. There will be almost no bass at all. When this happens people turn up the bass full and nothing happens.The speakers individually working much harder. In the case of phase cancellation, if you have the bass turned up and disconnect one of the two speakers, the bass notes get much louder. Higher frequencies also are adversely affected they will become more mushy sounding. I hope this helps you. Best Regards, Mark
I am a service engineer and have serviced a few of these units, you can
send it back to speakercraft direct but they will charge you an arm and a
leg for it, they are very 'cloak and dagger' about supplying parts and service info to anyone else including dealers.
I must say from the outset that these units are not a straight forward amp like some of
the posting are suggesting... any professional engineer will not be able
to diagnose a problem for a written symptom.
these systems require a programmer via a software driven interface to set them up which only a dealer
will have. so in some cases a re program can solve the issues.
The amp's (6xstereo modules) are very low powered at about 5w per
channel so they are a common problem and each one cost's about
£100.+VAT and then labour cost's, but they are loaded with a very
complex matrix system for looping video and audio plus the CAT5e
localised Keypad's... these are £5K systems when new, but you probably know that.
One way for you to get an better idea of were the problem might lie is to find a pair of powered speakers like PC speakers and connect them to the 'Pre-Out' connections on the rear of the unit located directly above the EZ-PAD connection on the rear.
You should be able to hear audio out of these outputs (one for each zone) and depending on the zone you connect to you will hear the corresponding audio that is selected in that area on the keypad.
if you do hear audio from each zone but not from the speaker outputs then it could be a number of problems probably caused by one or more of the AMP modules failing (which is common).
If you power up the amp with it connected and don't pass any audio through it, put your ear right up to the speakers in each zone and you should hear a VERY faint hissing coming from the speakers (which is good). Which ever zones are not emitting that hissing correspond to the amp modules that are faulty.
If you can't get any audio from the pre-out's on each zone on the rear of the MZC66 then it could simply need a re-program.
sometimes when a amp module blows it takes out another board and they are expensive.
This won't fix the problem but may go some way to helping you get a better idea of the problem if you haven't already.
You can use any wattage speakers as long as they are not less than the watts from your amp. However you can still use lower wattage speakers as long as you don't turn up the volume full or two loud! Otherwise your damage the speaker.
HOWEVER you must get the ohms matched up right. You must never connect any speaker with a low Ohm to a high rated amp. Or you will blow the output stage transistors or IC.
Most Amps are 8 ohms, so you could connect an 8 or 16 etc, but not a 4 ohm.
if it is not working then there is another serious problem , and it could be the amp IC or the volume IC but tests will need to be done to determine what is causing the failure , but it does sound like amp IC as a suspect since the rear were not even working , did the volume seem different when turning it up or down before the center quit or after the center quit?
most of these type systems have feedback path which shuts down the system once there is excess heating in the regulating transistor... i think there must be something getting shorted when u turn the volume up.....