# I purchased a siemens temperature monitor #QAA2071, the monitor comes in two pieces a base and a front. The wiring terminals on the base are 1, 2,3,4,5,6,7,and8. The terminals on the device and wiring diagram are G, GO, U..., I...,G..., C pos, and C neg. Where do I apply 24vdc to the base and where do I connect my 4 - 20 ma output on the base

Posted by on

Hi,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

The easiest way to think of wiring voice coils and subs is this:

• Two items of the same impedance in parallel = Half of the impedance
• 4 ohms in parallel with 4 ohms = 2 ohms
• 8 ohms in parallel with 8 ohms = 4 ohms
• Two items of the same impedance in series = Double the impedance
• 4 ohms in series with 4 ohms = 8 ohms
• 8 ohms in series with 8 ohms = 16 ohms
In this case, you want to wire two subs, each with dual 4 ohms voice coils, so that the total equals 2 ohms. Your options are:
• DVCs in parallel, 2 subs in series = 4 ohms
• DVCs in series, 2 subs in parallel = 4 ohms
• DVCs in parallel, 1 sub = 2 ohms
With two, dual 4 ohm subs, you can only have 1 ohm or 4 ohm total impedance.

Posted on Mar 17, 2008

The slim terminal is the negative and the fat terminal is positive.

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

Assuming that you are wiring for 115v. Lets start with the ground. The cord that attaches to the wall outlet will have three wires, green, black , and white. Insert the cord thru one of the openings of the pressure switch and attach the green wire to the ground screw. Next look very closely at the contacts and notice that they are arrainged in pairs. There is a small brass bar with two contacts that completes the circuit for each line. Start with L1 and attach white wire from cord, then attach white wire from motor to the screw terminal that small brass bar bridges to (should be T1). Next attach black wire from cord to L2 and black wire from motor to remining screw. Remember that the small brass bar with two contacts is the bridge and simply connects white to white and black to black. Enjoy

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

Positive of one battery to hot of vehicle wiring harness--neg. of that battery to positive of other battery--negative of that battery to block (ground)

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

THe amplifier connects to the crossover.. If you are using an amplifier there is no reason to connect the radio/deck to the crossover.

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

×

my-video-file.mp4

×

## Related Questions:

### The temperature gauge in my ford festiva 1995 does not work. Is it relatively easy to replace the sensor and if so where is it located in this car? Thanks

Ground the temperature gauge wire to the engine using a jumper wire, then watch the temperature gauge needle. If the gauge now reads Hot, replace the temperature sending unit. Check the fuse for the temperature gauge circuit. If the fuse is good, check for voltage at the ignition terminal on the gauge with turn the ignition key to the "on" position. Using a voltmeter. If there is no voltage, there is a problem in the circuit between the ignition key and the gauge or the fuse panel and the gauge temperature. Fix the problem and test again. If there is voltage, replace the gauge.

Oct 01, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

### My Hayward H250 pool and spa heater will not fire up. The mode light is not illuminated.

The H250 pool heater has several normally closed safety switches, also called permissives. All permissives need to in the closed position before the controller can initiate ignition. If one or more of the permissives are open, the controller will not initiate ignition (the yellow light will be extinguished on some models, some models have no lights, some models use other displays to indicate faults).

CAUTION: Power, gas and the water pump should be turned off before attempting to repair your H250 pool heater.

CAUTION: The H250 pool heater is essentially a gas furnace. Only qualified technicians with the proper training and tools should attempt to repair your pool heater.

In most H250 models there are 5 permissives, at least one thermostat or temperature monitor/controller, and system on/off switch. Some models use municipal power, some do not. For a heater connected to a power source, of course the power source needs to be active before the system will operate. For those without a power source, the system is powered by a millivolt circuit that originates from the thermocouple on the pilot. The pilot flame generates enough energy via the thermocouple to operate the combustion safety and control circuit.

Now on to troubleshooting: Based on your comment of "mode light is no illuminated", I assume you have a system with a yellow and green LED indicator. This system is powered by municipal power and uses an ignitor/flame detector rather than a pilot. The yellow LED signifies the heater is powered and all permissives are active (ON), in other words, the heater is ready for operation. If the yellow LED is off, either municipal power has been turned off, or one or more of the permissives is/are inactive (OFF). The green LED signified the control system has opened the gas valve and combustion is active. The green LED cannot be ON unless the yellow LED is ON.

Based on your comments, I assume you have already checked your municipal power and it is ON. If indeed your yellow LED is off, at least one of your five permissives is inactive (OFF). These five devices are switches that monitor the operation of the heater. In normal operation, they are in closed position, allowing current to flow. If the pre-determined limit has been overcome, the switch will go to open, which will disconnect the entire control system and turn off the gas valve. Normally the device will return to it's normal state of ON once the limit is back under its pre-determined limit. There is one exception -- a manually resettable limit switch monitoring the combustion chamber for high temperature limit. If tripped, this switch has indicated temperature in the combustion chamber has exceeded the manufacturer's limit for the chamber. Even though this switch can be manually reset, one must take care to check the combustion system for the root cause. Once reset, the condition that caused the temperature overlimit may still exist, in which case there is a malfunction of the heater that needs critical attention. The resettable temperature switch is located behind the lower access panel, toward the right side of lower section. To reset, press the small button in the middle of the switch.

If the resettable temperature switch has not been tripped, then either one of the 5 permissive devices has malfunctioned or the wiring between them has become damaged or disconnected. Here is the list of the permissives:

2 - High water temperature limiters (located on front and rear of the water header)
2 - Combustion chamber temperature limiters (1 resettable as above, the other is not resettable. It is located on the left side.)
1 - Water pressure monitor (located in the water path, in the upper section of the heater). This switch should be ON when water is flowing through the heater.

Each of these devices can be checked with an OHM meter. When the heater is off, all the temperature switches should be in the ON state. When the pump is on, the water pressure monitor should be in the ON state. If any of these devices do not preform properly, it needs to be replaced.

Wiring for the permissive devices is in series -- that is to say, all devices must be ON to allow current to flow and the gas valve to open. The permissive wire string begins on the terminal block as a RED wire, passing through the first water temperature limit switch to a VIO wire, then through the second water temperature limit switch to a BLU wire, then through the water pressure switch to a VIO wire, then through the non-resettable combustion temperature switch to a BLK wire, then through the resettable combustion temperature switch to a PUR wire, than back to the terminal block. When the heater is powered, 24VAC hot-side of the transformer connects directly to the first permissive (RED wire). If 24VAC is not present, then the 24VAC transformer has malfunctioned and needs to be replaced (or there is a broken wire (GRY) coming from the transformer to the terminal block ).

When 24VAC if present and all the permissives are active, the yellow LED will illuminate. This is the signal to the controller that combustion can be initiated.

(It is possible that the yellow LED has malfunctioned, but this would not stop the controller from operating the combustion process. If the yellow LED is OFF and the combustion process will not initiate, the malfunction will likely be found in the permissive string.)

Feb 05, 2011 | Hayward 250kbtu Ng Pool Heater - Inground

### Whats a f05 error on a aquasteam 6 sense washing machine?

F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Information coutesy of expert jsrock516

Jan 11, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

### Hello, last night wash as usual,the machine stopped and it said on digital monitor F-05 I turned it off and restasrted the wash again after 5 mins it said it again. What does this mean?Thankyou

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Sep 14, 2010 | Washing Machines

### What does F5 mean?

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

Apr 17, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

### What does the error code F05 mean on the HE 4t front-loading washer?

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 22, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

### Washing machine wont openkeeps coming up f05

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jul 10, 2009 | Hotpoint Ariston AW125 Front Load Washer

### My Whirlpool Duet front load washer has code f05 and not working

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!!

Jun 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

### Handset won't work

I went through this exercise with a Siemens Gigaset 8800. The solution is to DE-register the handset first. Then register it with your base. This function can likely be accessed in the handset menu. The phone you purchased is apparently still registered to the previous user's base.

May 23, 2009 | Siemens Gigaset 4200 Cordless Expansion...

## Open Questions:

#### Related Topics:

79 people viewed this question

Level 3 Expert

Level 3 Expert