Question about Maytag Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
"Fdl" is a door latch error code. This can be an indication of a broken door latch, or a bad central control unit (CCU). It can also mean loose interconnecting wires. Since you indicated that the latch doesn't make any noises such as attempting to lock at the beginning of the wash cycle, I would suspect the door latch as the problem, before I would suspect the control unit. The door latch doesn't cost much (usually around $35) and is a fairly simple repair to make on your own. If you wish to attempt a repair here's the steps required to replace the switch and how to perform diagnostics:
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub. This requires more steps, which means removing more parts, which means more time (plus patience).
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom.
Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in. At the control panel select:
and under OPTIONS press any key (has the be the same key) 4 times.
This places the washer into diagnostics mode. "C00" will be displayed on the screen and you should hear a distinctive "click" of the door latch. If diagnostics passes, the washer will run through a series of tests, tumble, drain and then spin. When completed, the unit will make an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light will be lit.
You can stop this process at any time by press the PAUSE/CANCEL button. Good luck to you and let me know if you have any further questions.
Posted on Feb 10, 2008
I would say the "Door Interlock" needs replacing.
Strangely enough my friends machine failed to start and the error code E40 pointed to the door interlock. I dismantled it and managed to get it to work again. At the moment the machine is working okay again but I will order a new Interlock online from C&G Domestics £22-94 inc P&P.
The clicking you refer to is normal but it should only ocur three or four times at the start of a program and at the end.....Hope this helps!
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet HT GHW9400PL0
Thanks for the help, here is how I fixed mine. The net net is that you may have to desolder the two white relays first then solder them back. You will need a solder vac ($10 at radioshack) to remove the solder.
I followed the advise and first just added solder to the 2 white relays and 1 black relay and this did not work. I went to Granger and bought two new relays (black 10A/5A not 10A/10A) and this did not work still 6 weak relay clicks. I then took apart the door lock mechanism (very cool should have taken a picture) and still only got the six weak clicks. Finally, I put the two white relays back but switched their position, and by God's grace and mercy it instantly worked. No clicks from the relay, the door immediately locked and the machine started running. Oh by the way make sure you have the soap thing in if your wife takes it out to clean it while you are working or you will get a little wet.
With all that I did I can't say what exactlly worked except Prayer. I would excluded the actual door lock mechanism. I thought with us manually unlocking the door we may have jammed the mechanism but this was not true. The relays show to be the true culpret. Since this was my first ever soldering job it may be that. Or it may have been switching the relays. I would say resolder first, if that does not work swap the relays, and if that does not work try new ones. But if you just get the relay click you have not fixed it yet.
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
SOURCE: Frigidaire Affinity Door Lock
under 1st yr warr, sure if thats he issue they would cover, it, a clogged drain pump may cause the same problem though , not being able to drain water , the pump would just hum.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
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